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Posted: 7/21/2004 8:13:26 AM EDT
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First of all, let me say thank you for all the good information found here. I've spent a few days reading through the site since deciding to build my first AR in memory of the 9'11 attacks and the fall of the AWB. I have absolutely no previous experience with platform, and have actually fought rather hard against the idea of owning an AR for the simple reason that I don't want to be considered some type of mall ninja wannabe. Times change. he What do I want? Basically, I want to assemble the AR so I can learn more about how they work. I want a carbine that's short, but accurate, and has a 4rail forend. I want what the politicians are scrambling to get rid of. If it's a bannable component, I should have it! My background? I am a crew leader for AT Systems, the second largest armored car courier in the nation. I carry and shoot either a box-stock S&W 686-5 (awesome revolver) or a Ted Yost 1* M1991 (he has two of my Colts in his shop as we speak). I like deer hunting, turkey chasing, hotwings-n-beer, reading, IDPA, and thinking deep thoughts. I've been around firearms forever, but I only really got the bug for box-fed when I bought a used Marlin Camp Carbine M45......and subsequently discovered how little I could modify it with cool add-ons. Good truck gun, though. Any thoughts, help, caveats would be much appreciated. I'm looking forward to this project and am already planning on that .308! |
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Everyone's a mall ninja wannabe at heart For 100 yards, 16" will do just fine. 16" is pretty much an overall good length. Only thing you get when going 20" is some extra velocity which means a little more frag range. Here's an example with M855: Frag range for M855 62 gr ball with 20" bbl: 120 yds with 16" bbl: 90 yds with 14.5" bbl: 65 yds So basically 16" is a good length for CQB, but also keeps enough velocity to fragment at longer ranges. This is good in terms of stopping power. I don't claim to be an expert, so I can't tell you about your hollowpoints, nor do I have a chart for ss109 (I'm no ammo expert either, so don't ask for calculations). All I know is 16" is good all around. 20"ers have a purpose, as well as 14.5"ers, but for more of an everything gun, I would go 16" That's my take on barrel length. I'll let the experts take the others, as I need to go eat some pizza |
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Try asking one or two questions at a time. Reading your post, I'd have to spend an hour writing a reply. I like 16" barrels. They don't compromise accuracy, just velocity. Much handier for fun shooting. But your choice is up to you, 16" or 20" barrels are fine rifles. Fire Control Group has nothing to do with how the upper is configured (for the most part). You don't need a LMT upper just to get rails. Do more reading. |
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I'll take a quick stab at it. Quoted: The problem now facing me is that I do not know what can be used with what. I like the idea of the Lewis Machine&Tool Monolithic Rail Platform upper, but I've only seen one review of it. Is it a good piece of equipment? Yes, but pricey; you could get two complete uppers for the price of one MRP. Let me add that all my knowledge regarding the MRP comes from research done on this board. Is it light Yes., strong, Yes. well-made,Yes. to spec? No. The barrels are not mil-spec; you must get LMT barrels made specifically for the MRP. Will it fit on a Mega lower?Yes. What trigger control system is compatible with the Mega and LMT MRP?Any, though I would suggest you go with a standard lower parts group from JT Distributing for a CQB/defensive carbine. What bbl length is good for 100yd accuracy?I would steer you towards the true M4 length of 14.5" with a 1 in 7 twist for this combat range. What bbl length is optimum for CQC work using ss109 and defensive HPs? Again, the 14.5", though I would go with the 77 grain Black Hills NATO load from Georgia Precision. What flash hider type is best? Vortex What about a compensator? For a CQB carbine, wait 'till Sept and go with the Vortex. What are the practical differences between the MagPul collapsing stock and the Vltor collapsing stock?Both accomplish the same thing albeit in different ways. See www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=118&t=188153. Is one better than the other? See thread link above. |
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I too am on my first build and I went through a lot of what -- I think -- you are going through. I wanted to build that "once in a lifetime" "never need anything else" "envy of everyone" "Lone Ranger" "does everything" rifle. I've been through the cranial destruction process of trying to evaluate 16" vs. 18", 1:7, 1:8, 1:9, two-stage trigger, RRA vs. Bushmaster, LMT, and now I'm driving myself CRAZY with all the options for a BUIS and a rail system. Whew! If I had about $2500 to sink into it, I'd get pretty close to the "dream rifle." But in the end, I just want to build one and shoot it on the weekends. What I really want is quality good accuracy, reliability, fit, balance and feel. I think that is the proper definition of a dream rifle. So, in the end, I went with the RRA lower and upper receivers, bolt, charging handle, stock and standard trigger. I am very pleased with the quality and fit. I'm participating in a group buy over on the EE for a post-ban RRA chrome-lined, 1:7, midlength gas, barrel. If that falls through, I'll probaby get the 1:9 post ban, chrome-lined RRAs that ADCO is selling. Since the 6.8mm is on the horizon, I'm not as concerned about pushing heavier bullets. I'll probably be shooting mostly 55gr bulk ammo in this one. The point is to go out and shoot, isn't it? I'll use the 6.8mm for brush work. With the money I saved, I can now fret over the rail system and the BUIS and have enough to start on the 6.8mm. I'm pretty much sold on the LaRue BUIS and rail system. Right now, though, I'll probably have to get the standard handguards because of funding issues. It looks like the new Daniel Defense and the LaRue mid-length rails won't be out for a while anyway. The optic -- Aimpoint ML, of course with the LaRue mount. Maybe a regular scope someday. This is just a little snapshot of the diminished mental state that is the result of an overabundance of AR accessories and the varied expert opinions on ARFCOM. But I can't stop. I'm addicted now. In six months, I'm sure I'll be mainlining CLP with a gas tube. Deciding to go with RRA for the main parts was a life saver -- to a degree. At least I now have half of a rifle and with the AWB expiring in September, the timing is just about perfect. Anyway, there are tons of good choices for you (and a few bad ones). I think the answer is to build your basic rifle (with a couple of frills to make it exciting) and shoot it for a while. In time, the rifle will tell you what it wants. It's in control, you see. ![]() So much for my sad story. Good luck and I'll see you in the "Looney Bin." Wolf ![]() [Edited for typos and bad grammer] |
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Wolf, I can most definitely understand your dilema. The plethora (big words are cool) of parts and accessories is mind-boggling, at best, and can quickly overwhelm the uninitiated. Maybe simple is better for this first one. Carbine_Man, didn't mean to come off sounding impolite, just caught me off guard. Your thoughts are sound and I'll try to be less enthusiastic in the future. Hill. FeedingCannibal - excellent link. Thanks. Deep pockets are not mine, so I'll have to look into the more 'mundane' forends for this first-time-not-last-time project. I definitely want the collapsing stock, just have to decide on which one. This is gonna be fun. Expensive, for sure, but definitely fun! |
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I'll recommend BrightFlashlights for Yankee Hill stuff. He has shared all of his knowledge with me, and also send an allen wrench for my YHM solid rear sight FREE OF CHARGE. And I hadn't even bought anything from him. Sadly, it doesn't look like I'll need anything from YHM most likely, as I went with a JP Enterprises lightweight FF tube. However, I will advertise for him He has a bunch of pics of the handguards and setups he sells in his own section ('BrightFlashlights') in the industry board. |
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