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Posted: 12/27/2012 6:02:58 PM EDT
Just finished my first complete build. Many different manufacturers, but it all went together really well. I have some welding experience and access to one, but I was surprised at how easy the battle comp was to pin/weld. A little sanding and some Oxpho blue, and it doesn't look half bad. It could stand another coat, but you don't really notice the color difference.
The FDE parts match really good, but the lighting on the picture makes the stock look darker. |
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First post was getting rather long, but I have a few questions.
I'm using a Troy Lo Pro gas block. After I verify this build works, I would like the make the gas block a little more permanent, and possibly weld the set screw on the gas block. One issue I can think of right off the bat, is the set screw is not flush with the gas block, but I could remedy that. My question, have any others tried this? Another option would be to buy a jig from rainier arms and drill/taper pin it, but I was hoping to avoid spending the 50 bucks on the jig. Another question I have is about the Battle Comp. When I was installing the comp, I could get it hand tight with the logo at 3 o'clock. I didn't want to torgue it down 360+ degrees, so I just torqued it down from the 3 o'clock position. It took roughly 22lbs of torgue. I figured since I would be drilling into the bbl slightly to dimple it, and then pin/welding it that it wouldnt be an issue. Anyone disagree? IIRC 22lbs is within the torque specs, but is on the light side. |
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Don't weld the gas block. You might want to disassemble the rifle at some time in the future. If you want to make it a little more secure you can use blue locktite on the setscrew (if you haven't already).
Dont worry about the comp. With the pin welded in it's not going anywhere. |
| My only concern with loctite is the temperature rating. After a bit of research I found that blue loctite (242) is rated up to 300 degrees, but they do make some that is rated to 600 degrees (2422). Ill just pick some of that up, and call it good. Its red, so it might be pretty hard to get out. I could probably heat it up if I needed to remove it. |
| i've never had a problem with any of my gas blocks coming off and i don't use locktite or anything special. just torque em down. But I like to use clamp on blocks as if you torque the set screws too much it could cause a slight bulge on the inside of your barrel and affect accuracy. I wouldn't worry about the gb if i were you. the troy hand guard is really easy to take off too so it's not hard to get at your gas block if it does loosen up. which it won't. |
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it turns out I may have been worried over nothing. I was able to shoot this gun for the first time today, and I ran it like it was stolen. roughly 450 rounds without a hiccup. When I went to loctite the screws, I could barely get them out. Its funny how you can get worked up over a potential problem you read about on the interwebs.
It was my first experience with a 14.5" middy and a battle comp, and I have to say its the softest shooting AR I have. My LWRC SPR is pretty close, but I have a Vltor A5 system, and a rainier xtc brake on it. I think a 300 blackout build is looong overdue!! |
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