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Posted: 12/16/2006 9:55:28 AM EDT
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I bought a RRA Elite Carbine a4 in October of this year from at Adco Firearms. I took the rifle to the range 2 times previous to today and fired exactly 350 rds total of wolf 55gr ammo with no problems whatsoever. I cleaned the rifle after the second outing. So today I take a buddy of mine to show off the new rifle and all I had was problems. First there was a misfire. Then the trigger would pull and click but there would be no round in the chamber. Then the bolt would stay half open or half shut with a round half way chambered. The bolt would not stay open after the last shot either. I was using new factory mags, 7 of them so I don't think it's the mags because it did it no matter which mag I used And the ammo was all from a 500 rd lot. This is my first ar15 so what's up do you think? Thankyou |
Well, i looked at this thread ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=118&t=306882 and wondered if you have tried better ammo yet?? I did notice that when you talked about 55gr vs 62gr you were under the impression that "grain" means power.........On factory ammo, like wolf or any brand..."grain" is the weight of the projectile, not the power of the load.( althought the load may change slightly to compansate for the heavier bullet) Hoppes #9 oil is fine to lube with, it's what i use. Please try good brass ammo till you hit around 1000 to 1200 rounds (good break in) then try wolf, if you feel the need (the only wolf i will use is xm-193 spec. it is brass cased and well powered) If you continue to have a problem, with good ammo, send it back, and we will fix it...no problem. But, i think it will fix it. So, lube it up and shoot it.
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| thank you very much for your info and your invitation to send back if i continue to have problems. that will be determined on my next trip to the range I guess. But for now she is all lubed up and ready to go another round. I will let you know how it turns out. merry christmas! |
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Please go back and read the link I posted. First off, Wolf ammo will leave a powderized polyurethane or lacquer coating (depending on the lot of ammo you have in regards to what it is coated with) that will not be dissolved with any copper solvent cleaners. To remove this powderized fouling, you must either scrub it out with a chamber brush or use a solvent like Acetone to break such fouling down and flush it from the system. Second, The correct lube for the rifle is CLP, and not a standard gun oils like Hoppes. The reason that you will use CLP is that in the lube, there is an active cleaning agent which breaks down the fouling of the rifle as it accrues. Furthermore, in regards to using copper solvents like Hoppes, they can be used to clean the bore, but must be fully removed before putting the rifle into action. If Hoppes copper solvent is left in the chamber, it creates a sticky/fouling mess, and combined with the powderized fouling of wolf ammo, and you're going to stick cases in the chamber at a steady pace (not just the coat wolf cases, but brass cases as well if the fouling has not been removed from a previous event). Simply, Since Hoppes does tend to leave a coating if not completely flushed from the chamber, Copper solvents like Sweet's is a better choice for the rifle. As for CLP, there are many brands of it on the market, but you will find that a 16oz spray can of BreakfreeCLP may be a good starting point in discovering the many different types being sold under different brand names. So to conclude, the copper bullet bore fouling is cleaned with Sweets, the chamber with a Chamber brush (scrubbed by hand), and the rest of the rifle cleaned, then the upper bearing surfaces areas lubed with CLP. |
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