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Posted: 6/27/2011 9:56:57 AM EDT
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Hey guys
I am building a 16 mid-length AR. This is my first build. I have decided to build the lower and buy a complete upper. I am strongly leaning towards a Spike's upper. There quality is good and customer service is great. I am trying to keep the price under 1000, and Spike's is very affordable for the quality. Plus, I really like their products. My question is, should I go with a standard fixed post sight and a 9'' rail or a 12'' rail with a gas block and a flip up sight with the gas block under the rail? Does anyone have any suggestions on the matter from experience with either options? |
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My only experience with midlength was a BCM upper. It functioned perfectly and had typical combat accuracy. I paid $603 shipped for the upper, BCG, CH and handguards.
ETA: Go with the fixed front sight. You can shave the FSB to make a pinned lo-pro gas block. I don't have a preference for railed handguards. |
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The fixed front and 9inch rail = simple and cheap... and may or may not be free floated
12 inch raile plus a tuck = more expensive and will have to be free floated. Also, you get a little more sight radius when there is more distance between the front sight and the rear. the more experience you have shooting the more you may "like" this set up... i personally do. but consistant cheek weld is more important for accuracy but will allow you to see "more" of the big picture. if you dont shoot often or havent shot a lot (this is your first "build")... i'd go with the fixed front and 9 inch rail. you can convert to the second option when you feel like it... for the cost of the front sight and rail. |
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Quoted:
The fixed front and 9inch rail = simple and cheap... and may or may not be free floated 12 inch raile plus a tuck = more expensive and will have to be free floated. Also, you get a little more sight radius when there is more distance between the front sight and the rear. the more experience you have shooting the more you may "like" this set up... i personally do. but consistant cheek weld is more important for accuracy but will allow you to see "more" of the big picture. if you dont shoot often or havent shot a lot (this is your first "build")... i'd go with the fixed front and 9 inch rail. you can convert to the second option when you feel like it... for the cost of the front sight and rail. I concur... |
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Hey Guys
Thanks for the posts, and great looking rifle you have there! BCM makes great stuff. Here were some options that I was looking at. w/ 12" rail http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/Spike_s_Tactical_16_Midlength_Upper_LE_w_12_BAR_p/sp-stu5035-r2s.htm This has the free float rail installed with a low profile block under it. w/ 9" rail http://www.spikestactical.com/new/z/spikes-tactical-16-midlength-le-upper-w9-bar-rail-556-p-449.html Also has a free float rail attached. Price on both is about the same. +/- $20! 
For the price I'm not sure I just dont go with the 12" model and save myself some trouble down the road. I also thought that it may be beneficial to get the 12" rail so that I might be able to mount a supressor under it w/ a shorter barrel at some point. I have a DMPS carbine and would enjoy a longer sight radius..... Any thoughs? |
| Try to find someone with a BAR, or another "fat" rail system, put rail covers on it, then handle the rifle. Do the same with one of the slimmer rail designs, standard handguards and one of the tube/rail styles like the Troy TRX Extremes. They all feel very different and folks tend to have a distinct preference. |
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