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Posted: 11/21/2010 9:21:08 AM EDT
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Do I apply heat to the flash hider or the barrel?
Do you know if Stag applies anything like Loc-Tite? This thing won't budge. |
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Is the hider on a shorter than 16" barrel? I have seen them soldered on as well as pinned. If soldered your going to need a torch to judiciously heat the FH to turn it off.
I recently had to remove a few FH's on guns that had shot quite a bit of corrosive ammo. NO GO. Thought they were soldered they were so tough. So soaked them both in a small tube filled with KROIL for two days. Both turned right off. Soaking for a few days in a quality PENETRANT is time well spent. I'm partial to KROIL. Good Luck. FN in MT |
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A pinned FH is pretty obvious for legal reasons. You would definately know one that was pinned. Not true. Some gunsmiths did a perfect job of a blind pin job. kurt's kustom firearms was one. Ok I guess I should have said usually... 
I know my BCM is and a lot of people like it being obvious so there is no questions about legal length... |
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To the OP.... I'd call STAG and see how they installed it. Better SAFE than SORRY.
I recently was given a 14.7" Bushy bbl that had a perm attached FH...that was removed...buggering up the threads. This one appeared to have been silver soldered on. Had it cut 1/2", recrowned, rethreaded, etc. Now need to find a long enough FH to salvage the thing...even as a simple truck rifle. FN in MT |
| If you heat the FH rather than the barrel, the heat goes through the thread compound to spread to the barrel. This is a more efficient way of breaking the lock than heating the barrel. Make sure the barrel is securely clamped in a heat-proof setup when you untorque the FH. Also make sure you are trying to break it loose while it is hot. |
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StagArms has a male silverback gorilla somewhere in their factory that they pay in bananas to put on flash hiders, barrel nuts, and front sight taper pins.
Get a good action block (I've got the DPMS one and it works great), get a wrench (and a cheater bar if necessary) and "put some ass on it". It'll come off. |
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StagArms has a male silverback gorilla somewhere in their factory that they pay in bananas to put on flash hiders, barrel nuts, and front sight taper pins. Get a good action block (I've got the DPMS one and it works great), get a wrench (and a cheater bar if necessary) and "put some ass on it". It'll come off. 
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This might be ridiculously obvious, but do you have the upper secured to anything? DPMS's Panther Claw (or whatever it's called) is the bee's knees for stuff like this. NEVER use any upper receiver block for flash hider removal or installation. Always clamp (using soft jaws) the barrel as close to the flash hider as possible. Using a upper receiver block you risk making your barrel nut loose or damaging the upper receiver if the barrel should twist. |
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StagArms has a male silverback gorilla somewhere in their factory that they pay in bananas to put on flash hiders, barrel nuts, and front sight taper pins. Get a good action block (I've got the DPMS one and it works great), get a wrench (and a cheater bar if necessary) and "put some ass on it". It'll come off. Desreves a bump... 
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This might be ridiculously obvious, but do you have the upper secured to anything? DPMS's Panther Claw (or whatever it's called) is the bee's knees for stuff like this. NEVER use any upper receiver block for flash hider removal or installation. Always clamp (using soft jaws) the barrel as close to the flash hider as possible. Using a upper receiver block you risk making your barrel nut loose or damaging the upper receiver if the barrel should twist. Solid advice right here |
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Quoted: StagArms has a male silverback gorilla somewhere in their factory that they pay in bananas to put on flash hiders, barrel nuts, and front sight taper pins. Get a good action block (I've got the DPMS one and it works great), get a wrench (and a cheater bar if necessary) and "put some ass on it". It'll come off. The red part. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
This might be ridiculously obvious, but do you have the upper secured to anything? DPMS's Panther Claw (or whatever it's called) is the bee's knees for stuff like this. NEVER use any upper receiver block for flash hider removal or installation. Always clamp (using soft jaws) the barrel as close to the flash hider as possible. Using a upper receiver block you risk making your barrel nut loose or damaging the upper receiver if the barrel should twist. Solid advice right here The part in red needs to be reiterated...clamp the barrel only so you don't bugger up you upper receiver |
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