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12/4/2006 7:21:46 AM EDT
For anyone who is willing to help me I need some help with the following things please.

For reference my gun is manufactured by Armalite and the link to my AR15 is right here.

First thing I need to find out is how I can remove the stock that came with my AR15 upon purchase, I simply cannot figure it out. Here is a picture to show you what type of stock it is and what buttons/levers it has.

http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/1296/stockgc7.jpg

Next I need to find out the following. If I were to purchase these Troy handguards would they align perfectly with the upper my AR15 currently has? If you can help me also please tell me how you can find out if handguards will align with an upper or not.

http://img388.imageshack.us/img388/8329/hgiq2.jpg

The last thing is concerning my FH on my AR15, by the looks of it, it seems permanent, and I would have to remove it based on the guide found here on the forums. I want to be sure it's permanent by showing you pros a picture heh. So here's a picture and please confirm what's the easiest way I can remove it if it is in fact permanent.

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/379/fhds6.jpg

Thanks for all the help and I would really appreciate if you guys can help me, I've been learning about AR15s since I joined this site and it's always been a big help so it would be great if that help was still available. hanks

12/4/2006 7:37:05 AM EDT
[#1]
For the Stock:

If you want to remove the entire butt-stock assembly, then simply unscrew the castle nut where the buffer tube meets the receiver, using either a car stock wrench or a large pair of channel loock pliers wrapped in tape.  If you just want to remove the plastic part, just pull down on the lever that allows the stock to move from postion to position.  On some tele-stocks you have to move the lever forward (towards the receiver) and then pull it down.

12/4/2006 7:44:50 AM EDT
[#2]
As for the Troy rail:

The rail should be flush with your upper receiver.  However, you may have to replace your gas block with one that has a lower profile.  It looks like your ar has a midlength gas system and if this is the case the rail should fit with your current gas block, but I have never owned an ar with that style of gas block so I could be wrong.

12/4/2006 7:55:32 AM EDT
[#3]
Ah ok I'll take a pic with the handguards off to help if it does. I can explain it to you for now...I guess my ar does have a midlength gas system because under my handguards I have the gas tube running from my upper all the way to the FSB. If that answers your question I guess I do have a midlength gas system.

I'll get a picture later when I have someone help me remove the handguards, I've always hated the stiffness of that damn delta ring.
12/4/2006 9:24:17 PM EDT
[#4]
Were you able to get the butt-stock off?

As for the gas system, gas systems on all traditional AR's have tubes running from the front sight base or the gas block(which you have)-(both do the same thing but the front sight base provides a fixed sight) to the upper receiver.  There are basically three lengths of gas systems, Carbine, Midlength, and Rifle.  The gas tubes for the carbine run about 7", midlengths are about 9" and rifles 12".  Now, most likely, a Troy Free float fore-end will not fit over your gas block.  So you would have to either get a shorter fore-end than you desire or get a new, lower profile gas block.  The last time I looked there were at least three threads on the first page of this board detailing the replacement of a gas block, so I will not repaet the process here.

Have fun tinkering with your AR!



P.S. Invest $15 +/- in a hand gaurd removal tool.  They can be found at several of the ar15.com industry partners websites.
12/5/2006 4:49:52 AM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:Were you able to get the butt-stock off?

As for the gas system, gas systems on all traditional AR's have tubes running from the front sight base or the gas block(which you have)-(both do the same thing but the front sight base provides a fixed sight) to the upper receiver.  There are basically three lengths of gas systems, Carbine, Midlength, and Rifle.  The gas tubes for the carbine run about 7", midlengths are about 9" and rifles 12".  Now, most likely, a Troy Free float fore-end will not fit over your gas block.  So you would have to either get a shorter fore-end than you desire or get a new, lower profile gas block.  The last time I looked there were at least three threads on the first page of this board detailing the replacement of a gas block, so I will not repaet the process here.

Have fun tinkering with your AR!



P.S. Invest $15 +/- in a hand gaurd removal tool.  They can be found at several of the ar15.com industry partners websites.


Ah right sorry I forgot to update you guys after last night.

Well, I was unable to remove the stock I currently have on my ar and I tried all methods mentioned in this thread. Really need help on how to remove it please.

My ar is a midlength and I took some pictures with the handguards off which I will post later on to help distinguish if I would need to purchase a low pro gas block or not.

Last, thanks for the tip to buy the handguard removal tool which was going to be my next question after struggling for about 20 minutes last night to put my handguards back on.
12/5/2006 6:04:34 AM EDT
[#6]
Is the stock actually collaspsable or is it fixed in one postion?

12/5/2006 12:07:59 PM EDT
[#7]

Quoted:
Is the stock actually collaspsable or is it fixed in one postion?



It's actually collapsable, I just can't seem to get it off, I practically almost broke the lever and I tried looking inside of it even to see if I could find what's holding it on.

It doesn't budge.

Here's a picture with the handguards of my rifle removed.

12/5/2006 12:18:28 PM EDT
[#8]
Without the tool or a friend, I've found the easiest way for me to get the handguards off is to sit on the floor with the rifle pointing squarely at me (hold my beer!&@$), and use my feet to push on the d-ring with one hand holding the barrel.  The other hand then takes the handguard pieces off.

May look like an idiot doing it, but it works if you aren't beefcake enough to just pull the ring all the way down and keep it there one-handed.

Installation is... the reverse of removal. :)
12/5/2006 1:46:26 PM EDT
[#9]
Are you trying to remove both the stock and tube or just the plastic part of the stock?
12/5/2006 3:05:45 PM EDT
[#10]

Quoted:
Without the tool or a friend, I've found the easiest way for me to get the handguards off is to sit on the floor with the rifle pointing squarely at me (hold my beer!&@$), and use my feet to push on the d-ring with one hand holding the barrel.  The other hand then takes the handguard pieces off.

May look like an idiot doing it, but it works if you aren't beefcake enough to just pull the ring all the way down and keep it there one-handed.

Installation is... the reverse of removal. :)


Ah, very nice method, surprised I didn't think of it during the 20 min. I spent last night trying to put them back on haha.


Quoted:
Are you trying to remove both the stock and tube or just the plastic part of the stock?


Trying to remove only the plastic part of the stock, the actual stock, the part that moves.
12/5/2006 3:35:17 PM EDT
[#11]

Quoted:
Without the tool or a friend, I've found the easiest way for me to get the handguards off is to sit on the floor with the rifle pointing squarely at me (hold my beer!&@$), and use my feet to push on the d-ring with one hand holding the barrel.  The other hand then takes the handguard pieces off.

May look like an idiot doing it, but it works if you aren't beefcake enough to just pull the ring all the way down and keep it there one-handed.

Installation is... the reverse of removal. :)


I am pretty sure that I would splurge and spend the $15-$20 instead of violating rule #1 of gun safety (never point a gun at anything you don't want to add a hole to) by pointing a rifle at my cod-piece and bean bag every time I wanted my handgaurds off.  

That's just me though!

The collapsable stock should come off if you pull that lever down.  What you can try if that doesn't work is taking tape wrapped pliers (to keep from scratching the finish) and pulling down on the metal piece that the lever moves, while pulling the stock away from the gun.

12/6/2006 2:29:00 AM EDT
[#12]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Without the tool or a friend, I've found the easiest way for me to get the handguards off is to sit on the floor with the rifle pointing squarely at me (hold my beer!&@$), and use my feet to push on the d-ring with one hand holding the barrel.  The other hand then takes the handguard pieces off.

May look like an idiot doing it, but it works if you aren't beefcake enough to just pull the ring all the way down and keep it there one-handed.

Installation is... the reverse of removal. :)


I am pretty sure that I would splurge and spend the $15-$20 instead of violating rule #1 of gun safety (never point a gun at anything you don't want to add a hole to) by pointing a rifle at my cod-piece and bean bag every time I wanted my handgaurds off.  

That's just me though!

The collapsable stock should come off if you pull that lever down.  What you can try if that doesn't work is taking tape wrapped pliers (to keep from scratching the finish) and pulling down on the metal piece that the lever moves, while pulling the stock away from the gun.



I'll have to try that, I tried pulling down that metal piece further manually with my fingers but it's way too hard to do so I guess pliers would do the job perhaps.
12/6/2006 12:44:51 PM EDT
[#13]
What I've found that works for the stock is to pull down (down and towards the receiver) the lever you typically push up on to adjust the stock, while at the same time pulling the stock to the rear..  You might have to tug pretty hard, but that's how they're made to be removed.

12/6/2006 1:23:11 PM EDT
[#14]
read this--i'll help w/ both disassembly and assembly

12/6/2006 1:40:42 PM EDT
[#15]

Quoted:
What I've found that works for the stock is to pull down (down and towards the receiver) the lever you typically push up on to adjust the stock, while at the same time pulling the stock to the rear..  You might have to tug pretty hard, but that's how they're made to be removed.

i21.photobucket.com/albums/b296/forester1/stockgc7.jpg


Ah it seems like that will work for sure, I'll let you guys know later if it does.

As for my handguards, any news as to whether I'll have to change my gas tube or not?
12/6/2006 7:44:25 PM EDT
[#16]
You will definately not have to change your gas tube, you will most likely not have to change your gas block.  If you are set on the Troy rail then go ahead and order it and if it works...great.  If not then order a lower profile gas block.  Problem solved

12/7/2006 4:21:47 AM EDT
[#17]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Without the tool or a friend, I've found the easiest way for me to get the handguards off is to sit on the floor with the rifle pointing squarely at me (hold my beer!&@$), and use my feet to push on the d-ring with one hand holding the barrel.  The other hand then takes the handguard pieces off.

May look like an idiot doing it, but it works if you aren't beefcake enough to just pull the ring all the way down and keep it there one-handed.

Installation is... the reverse of removal. :)


I am pretty sure that I would splurge and spend the $15-$20 instead of violating rule #1 of gun safety (never point a gun at anything you don't want to add a hole to) by pointing a rifle at my cod-piece and bean bag every time I wanted my handgaurds off.  

That's just me though!

The collapsable stock should come off if you pull that lever down.  What you can try if that doesn't work is taking tape wrapped pliers (to keep from scratching the finish) and pulling down on the metal piece that the lever moves, while pulling the stock away from the gun.



Well, call it a "field expedient" method.   I did buy the removal tool and use it now whenever I need them off, but before I had it, that's the method I found that works the easiest.

I'm a stickler for gun safety as much as the next guy, but I'm willing to take the risk once I've triple checked that it's empty and the magazine is removed.  If you're really paranoid you can take the upper off first and take the BCG out.
12/7/2006 11:32:36 AM EDT
[#18]

Quoted:

Well, call it a "field expedient" method.   I did buy the removal tool and use it now whenever I need them off, but before I had it, that's the method I found that works the easiest.

I'm a stickler for gun safety as much as the next guy, but I'm willing to take the risk once I've triple checked that it's empty and the magazine is removed.  If you're really paranoid you can take the upper off first and take the BCG out.


Yeah about the removal tool, the cheapest price I've found it at is $25 through a google search, should I bother finding it cheaper or is $25 the lowest price I'll find it at?
12/7/2006 11:40:12 AM EDT
[#19]

Quoted:

Yeah about the removal tool, the cheapest price I've found it at is $25 through a google search, should I bother finding it cheaper or is $25 the lowest price I'll find it at?


I think that's about what I paid for mine..  Really overpriced "extra heavy duty" bent coathanger if you ask me, but it works.
12/7/2006 5:04:48 PM EDT
[#20]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Well, call it a "field expedient" method.   I did buy the removal tool and use it now whenever I need them off, but before I had it, that's the method I found that works the easiest.

I'm a stickler for gun safety as much as the next guy, but I'm willing to take the risk once I've triple checked that it's empty and the magazine is removed.  If you're really paranoid you can take the upper off first and take the BCG out.


Yeah about the removal tool, the cheapest price I've found it at is $25 through a google search, should I bother finding it cheaper or is $25 the lowest price I'll find it at?


Other than my local gun shop, I always try to support the companies that support AR15.com.  Not trying to tell you who to give your money to just making a suggestion.  One of the companies that supports this board both financially and with great advice to those of us who need it every now and again is Bravo Company USA.  

Try this link:

HANDGAURD REMOVAL TOOL

I think you will find one at a better price with this link than what google found for you.


12/8/2006 10:02:53 AM EDT
[#21]
RB Precision had the removal tool for $14 plus shipping.
12/10/2006 12:25:46 PM EDT
[#22]

Quoted:
What I've found that works for the stock is to pull down (down and towards the receiver) the lever you typically push up on to adjust the stock, while at the same time pulling the stock to the rear..  You might have to tug pretty hard, but that's how they're made to be removed.

i21.photobucket.com/albums/b296/forester1/stockgc7.jpg


Yessir, this method worked, I was finally able to remove my stock and here's a picture to prove it. Thanks for all the help guys, I'll be ordering plenty of things for Christmas.

12/10/2006 1:38:11 PM EDT
[#23]
As someone suggested on this site for a handguard removal tool, I use a 1/8th cord wrapped around the delta ring with loops hanging 180 degrees downward towards floor. Stand on loops and pull up on ar15. Nothing fancy but for an occasional removal it works. Not bragging but in my younger days I had a grip strong enough to release the ring free hand.
12/11/2006 12:10:41 PM EDT
[#24]

Quoted:
As someone suggested on this site for a handguard removal tool, I use a 1/8th cord wrapped around the delta ring with loops hanging 180 degrees downward towards floor. Stand on loops and pull up on ar15. Nothing fancy but for an occasional removal it works. Not bragging but in my younger days I had a grip strong enough to release the ring free hand.


Post a picture please if you can so I can figure out how to make my own, and save some money.
12/11/2006 9:02:10 PM EDT
[#25]
Handguard removal:  I just stand the rifle up on end on my workbench, tug down with one hand on the delta ring, and tease the handguard off with the other.  Lather, rinse, repeat with the other guard.

Reverse for assembly.
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