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5/15/2011 1:19:08 PM EDT
I have been looking around at different barrels and i am having trouble deciding between Noveske, DD and bushmaster and here are my concerns.

I am just about to buy myself a barrel for my first SBR build, I am wanting to go with either a 10.5 or 11.5" barrel.  I have been hearing a lot of different pros and cons for each build but the one that are concerning me are the damage to the muzzle breaks.  I know that the 11.5's are measurably easier on muzzle breaks and i am planning on running my sbr with a suppressor too.  so I am leaning towards going with a 11.5. so i have also heard that shorter barrels have a problem with cocentricity and therefore running them with a suppressor causes more POI shift than longer barrels

Which barrel is best for less muzzle break/suppressor damage and is almost perfectly co-centric for both lengths?
thanks for the info.
5/15/2011 2:14:26 PM EDT
[#1]
The brand of barrel has nothing to do with how much erosion your brake might see. The shorter the barrel (regardless of brand) the more erosion on the brake & can you will see over time. And a blanket statement that SBRs are inherently non-concentric by themselves is just false. It depends on the individual barrel & the quality/care put into its proper manufacture. You should have every barrel (regardless of make) you plan to host a can on checked for concentricy before shooting with the can attached. If you don't & you baffle and/or end cap strikes then that's on you. Further, POI shift will depend mostly on the brand of can you are using & the attachment method-thread on vs. QD. That said, I like DD & BCM barrels for my SBRs & cans. I run 10.3 & 11.5 for my barrels with one LMT 14.5, which is also an excellent quality barrel in its on right.
5/15/2011 6:26:52 PM EDT
[#2]
Ok thank you for the information.  So just to get a feel for different brands i would like to know about how the quality of barrels differs between RRA, Bushmaster, noveske and DD barrels.  is there a significant difference in quality that is worth the cost?  and how would one go about checking a barrel for being co-centric?  i had another one of my barrels threaded by a gunsmith in town should i worry about how he threaded it? and what questions should i ask to find out if he threaded it right?  any information about these questions would be greatly appreciated.
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