AR Sponsor
Posted: 11/8/2009 1:51:18 PM EDT
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I sold my Colt 20" HBAR because it was just too damn heavy to have fun with.
I have been thinking about buying a replacement but have also been thinking about building a carbine. What direction would be best for a build- a first build. S stripped upper and lower and buying the parts kits, or buying a complete upper and complete or semi-complete lower? I want a carbine, with a lightweight 16" barrel, adjustable stock and a flattop receiver. This will be just a range rifle, maybe a few matches, but will not be used a lot. It will also keep my 1911s company for bumps in the night. I have installed a free float tube under the handguards for a match legal setup on my Colt, so I do know how to replace the barrel. I also replaced the trigger, but I have not taken an AR down further. Would a stripped upper and lower be a bad way to go? Jim |
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I went with the semi-complete 16" Midlength upper assembly from BCM. I then got a BCG, charging handle, DD Omega 9.0 rail, and Troy rear back up sight to finish it up. Other options (optic, light, VFG, etc.) for the upper can be added after this point if you want to have them.
I started with a stripped lower and bought all the parts to finish it. Unless you feel a strong desire to build the upper from a stripped upper receiver, I would do it like I did. That's how I plan to do my next one too. |
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That's the main thing I was thinking about. I know there are some people here who assemble rifles from scratch. I have more limited skills and didn't know if it was really a good idea for me to.
I can get a stripped lower, LPK and buttstock, but I will check the prices against buying a complete assembled lower. I will probably buy the upper complete. Or I might just buy a complete carbine. I'm not in a rush so I can take the time to figure it out and find the parts at decent prices. I just don't want to end up with a piece of crap. Jim |
| The biggest thing about building one from scratch, is having the proper tools. If you have the tools, like I assume you do as you said you have taken the barrel nut off of a previous weapon, the rest is pretty straightforward. You pretty much know most of the steps if you have already done a trigger and free float tube. I was a little apprehensive before I did mine, but just take your time, know what you want out of the weapon, and ask here if you have any questions and you should be good to go. |
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The parts kit you list above will have to assembled in the lower. Here is another suggested source for the same parts. Stripped Lower Receiver Lower Parts Kit |
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Those are $140.00 plus shipping and a transfer fee.
I was looking at the Spikes site and they have a complete lower including stock for $249.00. They say a mil-spec LPK. Whose parts do they use, or do they make their own? How is a DPMS LPK? Is there a better LPK? Jim |
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As long as you've got the tools, AR lpk's are simple to assemble, and also give you an intimate knowledge of the working parts of the gun.
I've put together quite a few AR lowers, and the last two I did from memory. It ain't hard if you've got some mechanical ability. |
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Quoted:
As long as you've got the tools, AR lpk's are simple to assemble, and also give you an intimate knowledge of the working parts of the gun. I've put together quite a few AR lowers, and the last two I did from memory. It ain't hard if you've got some mechanical ability. That is the main reason I am thinking of building one. It might be a little cheaper, but probably not enough to make a real difference. If all I wanted to do was blast away I would not even think of building. Plus it seems like it would be really fun at the range if I shoot a good group and someone asks who made the rifle. And I say I did. Braggin' rights baby! Jim |
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I just assembled a lower from AGP using a RRA LPK. It went together very nicely. I have assembled a few other mfg's lowers with DPMS LPK's and they required some fitting here and there but the RRA did not.
AGP has the lower for $99.00 and a RRA LPK for $70.00. The AGP has a trigger "take-up" adjustment that works great. AGP link 
The flag on the magwell is standard. 
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