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Originally Posted By gunnut003: I guess a Vari-X III non-illum with FFP Premier Mildot reticle will have to do... http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz329/gunnut003/100_2081.jpg ETA: before anyone asks, it is a WEAVER rail, and Unknown VORTEX rings. View Quote And that CAR looks pretty sweet on there. I picked up a pre-ban CAR and put in on my GenIII mod0 for shits and giggles. |
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could one of you guys that have the 12th model suppressor, mock it up on a 14.5" M4 barrel so i could see how far back it goes??
Thank you |
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Originally Posted By MattNificent:
could one of you guys that have the 12th model suppressor, mock it up on a 14.5" M4 barrel so i could see how far back it goes?? Thank you View Quote Google "ops inc 12 14.5" ...you will find some pics... I am mobile, otherwise I would be more helpful. .. |
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-Only two defining forces have ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American G.I. ~ One died for your soul, the other for your freedom.
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Originally Posted By gunnut003:
Google "ops inc 12 14.5" ...you will find some pics... I am mobile, otherwise I would be more helpful. .. http:// http://twobirdsflyingpub.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/12thsprmbs_01.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By gunnut003:
Originally Posted By MattNificent:
could one of you guys that have the 12th model suppressor, mock it up on a 14.5" M4 barrel so i could see how far back it goes?? Thank you Google "ops inc 12 14.5" ...you will find some pics... I am mobile, otherwise I would be more helpful. .. http:// http://twobirdsflyingpub.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/12thsprmbs_01.jpg thanks, ive actually seen that pic, was looking for a more straight on side shot. |
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Originally Posted By MattNificent: thanks, ive actually seen that pic, was looking for a more straight on side shot. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By MattNificent: Originally Posted By gunnut003: Originally Posted By MattNificent: could one of you guys that have the 12th model suppressor, mock it up on a 14.5" M4 barrel so i could see how far back it goes?? Thank you Google "ops inc 12 14.5" ...you will find some pics... I am mobile, otherwise I would be more helpful. .. http:// http://twobirdsflyingpub.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/12thsprmbs_01.jpg thanks, ive actually seen that pic, was looking for a more straight on side shot. It indexes back several inches from the tip of the brake. I don't have mine yet or I'd throw you some numbers. |
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http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1604816_Gentle_Propositions____BOOK_IS_LIVE_ON_AMAZON___.html
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Originally Posted By wayfaerer320:
From LS: http://www.imfdb.org/images/thumb/4/42/Lone1.jpg/800px-Lone1.jpg http://www.imfdb.org/images/thumb/6/65/Lone16.jpg/800px-Lone16.jpg http://www.imfdb.org/images/thumb/5/59/Lone65.jpg/800px-Lone65.jpg http://www.imfdb.org/images/thumb/7/73/Lone38.jpg/800px-Lone38.jpg http://www.imfdb.org/images/thumb/4/48/Lone46.jpg/800px-Lone46.jpg View Quote What is wrapped around the suppressor in the center pic? |
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Originally Posted By Mattyvac: Has anyone shot their CLE barrels yet? I FINALLY zero'd a good scope on properly with my Mod H barrel. Douglas CMV blank with CLE match chamber Bottom left is hornady TAP FPD 55grn, bottom right is black hills 75grn .223 reman, and middle is mixed XM193/.223 55grn. All are 5 shot groups. This was my first time shooting past 20 yards, and trying to shoot, in like 3 years. I want to try out some more ammo to see what this barrel likes, it seems that it likes lower grains better...maybe some 69grn match?? https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dMlFqmezODI/U957Kno4ZrI/AAAAAAAAJr0/vCgqKf0pjC4/s640/2014_%25208_%25203_14_10.jpg View Quote What range were you shooting out to? Also, did you note which hole was your first shot, cold bore? Suppressed? |
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Originally Posted By RTUtah:
What range were you shooting out to? Also, did you note which hole was your first shot, cold bore? Suppressed? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By RTUtah:
Originally Posted By Mattyvac:
Has anyone shot their CLE barrels yet? I FINALLY zero'd a good scope on properly with my Mod H barrel. Douglas CMV blank with CLE match chamber Bottom left is hornady TAP FPD 55grn, bottom right is black hills 75grn .223 reman, and middle is mixed XM193/.223 55grn. All are 5 shot groups. This was my first time shooting past 20 yards, and trying to shoot, in like 3 years. I want to try out some more ammo to see what this barrel likes, it seems that it likes lower grains better...maybe some 69grn match?? https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dMlFqmezODI/U957Kno4ZrI/AAAAAAAAJr0/vCgqKf0pjC4/s640/2014_%25208_%25203_14_10.jpg What range were you shooting out to? Also, did you note which hole was your first shot, cold bore? Suppressed? 100yds, unsuppressed (there is no poi shift with the 12th model), and there was no cold bore shot as I fired 20 rounds at the 25yd range before moving to the 100yd for my base zero...before I got y 100yd zero. |
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Originally Posted By Mattyvac: 100yds, unsuppressed (there is no poi shift with the 12th model), and there was no cold bore shot as I fired 20 rounds at the 25yd range before moving to the 100yd for my base zero...before I got y 100yd zero. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Mattyvac: Originally Posted By RTUtah: Originally Posted By Mattyvac: Has anyone shot their CLE barrels yet? I FINALLY zero'd a good scope on properly with my Mod H barrel. Douglas CMV blank with CLE match chamber Bottom left is hornady TAP FPD 55grn, bottom right is black hills 75grn .223 reman, and middle is mixed XM193/.223 55grn. All are 5 shot groups. This was my first time shooting past 20 yards, and trying to shoot, in like 3 years. I want to try out some more ammo to see what this barrel likes, it seems that it likes lower grains better...maybe some 69grn match?? https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dMlFqmezODI/U957Kno4ZrI/AAAAAAAAJr0/vCgqKf0pjC4/s640/2014_%25208_%25203_14_10.jpg What range were you shooting out to? Also, did you note which hole was your first shot, cold bore? Suppressed? 100yds, unsuppressed (there is no poi shift with the 12th model), and there was no cold bore shot as I fired 20 rounds at the 25yd range before moving to the 100yd for my base zero...before I got y 100yd zero. 10-4 Indoor range? If not, what were the weather conditions? |
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http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1604816_Gentle_Propositions____BOOK_IS_LIVE_ON_AMAZON___.html
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Anyone know where I can get the black KAC 99051 front iron?? HELP !!
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Originally Posted By RTUtah:
10-4 Indoor range? If not, what were the weather conditions? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By RTUtah:
Originally Posted By Mattyvac:
Originally Posted By RTUtah:
Originally Posted By Mattyvac:
Has anyone shot their CLE barrels yet? I FINALLY zero'd a good scope on properly with my Mod H barrel. Douglas CMV blank with CLE match chamber Bottom left is hornady TAP FPD 55grn, bottom right is black hills 75grn .223 reman, and middle is mixed XM193/.223 55grn. All are 5 shot groups. This was my first time shooting past 20 yards, and trying to shoot, in like 3 years. I want to try out some more ammo to see what this barrel likes, it seems that it likes lower grains better...maybe some 69grn match?? https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dMlFqmezODI/U957Kno4ZrI/AAAAAAAAJr0/vCgqKf0pjC4/s640/2014_%25208_%25203_14_10.jpg What range were you shooting out to? Also, did you note which hole was your first shot, cold bore? Suppressed? 100yds, unsuppressed (there is no poi shift with the 12th model), and there was no cold bore shot as I fired 20 rounds at the 25yd range before moving to the 100yd for my base zero...before I got y 100yd zero. 10-4 Indoor range? If not, what were the weather conditions? Outdoor. Sunny and hot |
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Originally Posted By Mattyvac: Outdoor. Sunny and hot View Quote Are you allergic to shellfish? Do you prefer tube socks, low-cuts, or no socks at all? Were you experiencing a case of the shakes from a previous night of drinking? Okay, for cereal, measure all three of those groupings and decide if what you're aiming for is combat accuracy, or absolute precision. The two lower groupings look about the same in length; the center is obviously a little longer. In what order did you shoot those groups? In other words, did they tighten up or open up? Ideally, you shot the center group first, then lower-right, then finally the lower-left group. But you didn't do that, did you? |
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http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1604816_Gentle_Propositions____BOOK_IS_LIVE_ON_AMAZON___.html
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I've looked briefly without much luck. Anyone know the overall length of the MK12 with a fixed stock and a 12th/AEM5????
Thanks. This is the greatest thread going and now I've contracted clone whore disease : so expensive |
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Originally Posted By RTUtah:
Are you allergic to shellfish? Do you prefer tube socks, low-cuts, or no socks at all? Were you experiencing a case of the shakes from a previous night of drinking? Okay, for cereal, measure all three of those groupings and decide if what you're aiming for is combat accuracy, or absolute precision. The two lower groupings look about the same in length; the center is obviously a little longer. In what order did you shoot those groups? In other words, did they tighten up or open up? Ideally, you shot the center group first, then lower-right, then finally the lower-left group. But you didn't do that, did you? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By RTUtah:
Originally Posted By Mattyvac:
Outdoor. Sunny and hot Are you allergic to shellfish? Do you prefer tube socks, low-cuts, or no socks at all? Were you experiencing a case of the shakes from a previous night of drinking? Okay, for cereal, measure all three of those groupings and decide if what you're aiming for is combat accuracy, or absolute precision. The two lower groupings look about the same in length; the center is obviously a little longer. In what order did you shoot those groups? In other words, did they tighten up or open up? Ideally, you shot the center group first, then lower-right, then finally the lower-left group. But you didn't do that, did you? No allergies and no socks unless I'm working or hiking The lower left group is 1.42 and lower right is 1.67. I shot middle, lower left, then lower right. My crosshairs were all over the target while aiming I need to practice more. |
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Originally Posted By Mattyvac: The lower left group is 1.42 and lower right is 1.67. I shot middle, lower left, then lower right. My crosshairs were all over the target while aiming I need to practice more. View Quote So from my interrogation, we learned your groupings are likely a result of shooter error and not necessarily ammo related. At a measly 100 yards, you shouldn't notice any real change in groups in relation to ammo. When you start stretching out to 400+ is when you'll notice that difference; M193 can't do what Mk262 can do at greater ranges. That's my take anyways. |
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http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1604816_Gentle_Propositions____BOOK_IS_LIVE_ON_AMAZON___.html
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Originally Posted By RTUtah:
So from my interrogation, we learned your groupings are likely a result of shooter error and not necessarily ammo related. At a measly 100 yards, you shouldn't notice any real change in groups in relation to ammo. When you start stretching out to 400+ is when you'll notice that difference; M193 can't do what Mk262 can do at greater ranges. That's my take anyways. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By RTUtah:
Originally Posted By Mattyvac:
The lower left group is 1.42 and lower right is 1.67. I shot middle, lower left, then lower right. My crosshairs were all over the target while aiming I need to practice more. So from my interrogation, we learned your groupings are likely a result of shooter error and not necessarily ammo related. At a measly 100 yards, you shouldn't notice any real change in groups in relation to ammo. When you start stretching out to 400+ is when you'll notice that difference; M193 can't do what Mk262 can do at greater ranges. That's my take anyways. Ouuuuccchhhhh |
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Originally Posted By Great_Balls_of_Fire: Ouuuuccchhhhh View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Great_Balls_of_Fire: Originally Posted By RTUtah: Originally Posted By Mattyvac: The lower left group is 1.42 and lower right is 1.67. I shot middle, lower left, then lower right. My crosshairs were all over the target while aiming I need to practice more. So from my interrogation, we learned your groupings are likely a result of shooter error and not necessarily ammo related. At a measly 100 yards, you shouldn't notice any real change in groups in relation to ammo. When you start stretching out to 400+ is when you'll notice that difference; M193 can't do what Mk262 can do at greater ranges. That's my take anyways. Ouuuuccchhhhh He said his crosshairs were all over the place. |
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http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1604816_Gentle_Propositions____BOOK_IS_LIVE_ON_AMAZON___.html
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Originally Posted By Mattyvac:
100yds, unsuppressed (there is no poi shift with the 12th model), and there was no cold bore shot as I fired 20 rounds at the 25yd range before moving to the 100yd for my base zero...before I got y 100yd zero. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Mattyvac:
Originally Posted By RTUtah:
Originally Posted By Mattyvac:
Has anyone shot their CLE barrels yet? I FINALLY zero'd a good scope on properly with my Mod H barrel. Douglas CMV blank with CLE match chamber Bottom left is hornady TAP FPD 55grn, bottom right is black hills 75grn .223 reman, and middle is mixed XM193/.223 55grn. All are 5 shot groups. This was my first time shooting past 20 yards, and trying to shoot, in like 3 years. I want to try out some more ammo to see what this barrel likes, it seems that it likes lower grains better...maybe some 69grn match?? https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dMlFqmezODI/U957Kno4ZrI/AAAAAAAAJr0/vCgqKf0pjC4/s640/2014_%25208_%25203_14_10.jpg What range were you shooting out to? Also, did you note which hole was your first shot, cold bore? Suppressed? 100yds, unsuppressed (there is no poi shift with the 12th model), and there was no cold bore shot as I fired 20 rounds at the 25yd range before moving to the 100yd for my base zero...before I got y 100yd zero. What was your reasoning on doing the CMV barrel vs the stainless? |
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"I suggest you give the tampons back to your sister and spend some of your cigarette money on trauma dressings."
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Originally Posted By MattNificent: thanks, ive actually seen that pic, was looking for a more straight on side shot. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By MattNificent: Originally Posted By gunnut003: Originally Posted By MattNificent: could one of you guys that have the 12th model suppressor, mock it up on a 14.5" M4 barrel so i could see how far back it goes?? Thank you Google "ops inc 12 14.5" ...you will find some pics... I am mobile, otherwise I would be more helpful. .. http:// http://twobirdsflyingpub.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/12thsprmbs_01.jpg thanks, ive actually seen that pic, was looking for a more straight on side shot. My 14.5 is setup for the 15th, a little shorter than the 12th but the barrel coverage should be about the same. |
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Originally Posted By NapeSticksToKids:
What was your reasoning on doing the CMV barrel vs the stainless? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By NapeSticksToKids:
Originally Posted By Mattyvac:
Originally Posted By RTUtah:
Originally Posted By Mattyvac:
Has anyone shot their CLE barrels yet? I FINALLY zero'd a good scope on properly with my Mod H barrel. Douglas CMV blank with CLE match chamber Bottom left is hornady TAP FPD 55grn, bottom right is black hills 75grn .223 reman, and middle is mixed XM193/.223 55grn. All are 5 shot groups. This was my first time shooting past 20 yards, and trying to shoot, in like 3 years. I want to try out some more ammo to see what this barrel likes, it seems that it likes lower grains better...maybe some 69grn match?? https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dMlFqmezODI/U957Kno4ZrI/AAAAAAAAJr0/vCgqKf0pjC4/s640/2014_%25208_%25203_14_10.jpg What range were you shooting out to? Also, did you note which hole was your first shot, cold bore? Suppressed? 100yds, unsuppressed (there is no poi shift with the 12th model), and there was no cold bore shot as I fired 20 rounds at the 25yd range before moving to the 100yd for my base zero...before I got y 100yd zero. What was your reasoning on doing the CMV barrel vs the stainless? I was just gonna ask this |
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Originally Posted By gunnut003:
Google "ops inc 12 14.5" ...you will find some pics... I am mobile, otherwise I would be more helpful. .. http:// http://twobirdsflyingpub.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/12thsprmbs_01.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By gunnut003:
Originally Posted By MattNificent:
could one of you guys that have the 12th model suppressor, mock it up on a 14.5" M4 barrel so i could see how far back it goes?? Thank you Google "ops inc 12 14.5" ...you will find some pics... I am mobile, otherwise I would be more helpful. .. http:// http://twobirdsflyingpub.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/12thsprmbs_01.jpg I think the 16th Model was more suited for an M4. It had the same amount of baffles as the 12th, but it didn't recess over the barrel as much. |
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Uncle
Sam's Misguided Children ОПАСНО ДАН |
Uncle
Sam's Misguided Children ОПАСНО ДАН |
Originally Posted By dangerdan: You got the wrong paint. True operators use: http://d2dslulmm3ln9j.cloudfront.net/skilcraft-so-sure-green-34082-primer-coating.jpg http://d2dslulmm3ln9j.cloudfront.net/skilcraft-so-sure-tan-obliterating-compound.jpg Skillcraft FTMFW If you arent aware, Skilcraft makes alot of stuff for the Gov't View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By dangerdan: You got the wrong paint. True operators use: http://d2dslulmm3ln9j.cloudfront.net/skilcraft-so-sure-green-34082-primer-coating.jpg http://d2dslulmm3ln9j.cloudfront.net/skilcraft-so-sure-tan-obliterating-compound.jpg Skillcraft FTMFW If you arent aware, Skilcraft makes alot of stuff for the Gov't |
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http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1604816_Gentle_Propositions____BOOK_IS_LIVE_ON_AMAZON___.html
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Somebody talk me out of this lol
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Originally Posted By dangerdan: You got the wrong paint. True operators use: http://d2dslulmm3ln9j.cloudfront.net/skilcraft-so-sure-green-34082-primer-coating.jpg http://d2dslulmm3ln9j.cloudfront.net/skilcraft-so-sure-tan-obliterating-compound.jpg Skillcraft FTMFW View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By dangerdan: You got the wrong paint. True operators use: http://d2dslulmm3ln9j.cloudfront.net/skilcraft-so-sure-green-34082-primer-coating.jpg http://d2dslulmm3ln9j.cloudfront.net/skilcraft-so-sure-tan-obliterating-compound.jpg Skillcraft FTMFW |
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Originally Posted By RTUtah:
https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRJeO8cryu6L1Wf2Eu62vMV_SyZSTRlBRfeE6B0PWCy4i-OZkeT View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By RTUtah:
Originally Posted By dangerdan:
You got the wrong paint. True operators use: http://d2dslulmm3ln9j.cloudfront.net/skilcraft-so-sure-green-34082-primer-coating.jpg http://d2dslulmm3ln9j.cloudfront.net/skilcraft-so-sure-tan-obliterating-compound.jpg Skillcraft FTMFW If you arent aware, Skilcraft makes alot of stuff for the Gov't https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRJeO8cryu6L1Wf2Eu62vMV_SyZSTRlBRfeE6B0PWCy4i-OZkeT Then maybe you shouldn't have been the thread originator |
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Uncle
Sam's Misguided Children ОПАСНО ДАН |
Originally Posted By secretwheelman:
I've heard of rust treatment and rust converter, but rust obliterating compound sounds like some serious shit. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By secretwheelman:
Originally Posted By dangerdan:
You got the wrong paint. True operators use: http://d2dslulmm3ln9j.cloudfront.net/skilcraft-so-sure-green-34082-primer-coating.jpg http://d2dslulmm3ln9j.cloudfront.net/skilcraft-so-sure-tan-obliterating-compound.jpg Skillcraft FTMFW This is the same company that has blind people making the socks we get issued.....and typically the toe seam is rotated 90* from the heel seam. Makes it interesting. And illustrates that descriptions should be taken with a grain of salt. In army terms, "obliterating" just means "i can't see it anymore". |
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tweeter:
After work today I'm gonna take off my pants and start this revolution. |
Originally Posted By ArmedFerret:
This is the same company that has blind people making the socks we get issued.....and typically the toe seam is rotated 90* from the heel seam. Makes it interesting. And illustrates that descriptions should be taken with a grain of salt. In army terms, "obliterating" just means "i can't see it anymore". View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By ArmedFerret:
Originally Posted By secretwheelman:
Originally Posted By dangerdan:
You got the wrong paint. True operators use: http://d2dslulmm3ln9j.cloudfront.net/skilcraft-so-sure-green-34082-primer-coating.jpg http://d2dslulmm3ln9j.cloudfront.net/skilcraft-so-sure-tan-obliterating-compound.jpg Skillcraft FTMFW This is the same company that has blind people making the socks we get issued.....and typically the toe seam is rotated 90* from the heel seam. Makes it interesting. And illustrates that descriptions should be taken with a grain of salt. In army terms, "obliterating" just means "i can't see it anymore". Well...those blind people do make the best pens out there. |
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Uncle
Sam's Misguided Children ОПАСНО ДАН |
I don't know about "best", but "easiest to steal" sure fits.
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tweeter:
After work today I'm gonna take off my pants and start this revolution. |
Originally Posted By NapeSticksToKids:
What was your reasoning on doing the CMV barrel vs the stainless? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By NapeSticksToKids:
Originally Posted By Mattyvac:
Originally Posted By RTUtah:
Originally Posted By Mattyvac:
Has anyone shot their CLE barrels yet? I FINALLY zero'd a good scope on properly with my Mod H barrel. Douglas CMV blank with CLE match chamber Bottom left is hornady TAP FPD 55grn, bottom right is black hills 75grn .223 reman, and middle is mixed XM193/.223 55grn. All are 5 shot groups. This was my first time shooting past 20 yards, and trying to shoot, in like 3 years. I want to try out some more ammo to see what this barrel likes, it seems that it likes lower grains better...maybe some 69grn match?? https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dMlFqmezODI/U957Kno4ZrI/AAAAAAAAJr0/vCgqKf0pjC4/s640/2014_%25208_%25203_14_10.jpg What range were you shooting out to? Also, did you note which hole was your first shot, cold bore? Suppressed? 100yds, unsuppressed (there is no poi shift with the 12th model), and there was no cold bore shot as I fired 20 rounds at the 25yd range before moving to the 100yd for my base zero...before I got y 100yd zero. What was your reasoning on doing the CMV barrel vs the stainless? Stainless and CMV are no different in terms of accuracy. They differ in how the barrel wears over time. Stainless will be good for about 5000 rounds and then all of a sudden shoot like birdshot all over the place, the CMV will shoot good for about the same, but then slowly taper off in terms of performance- IE the group size will slowly open up for the next 1000-2000 rounds. This is due to SS being softer than CMV and the throat erosion is more dramatic, as well as overall wear patterns due to the softness. The stainless has another positive in that it won't rust, but if your CMV is properly parkerized, cerakoted, painted, or lubed that wont happen anyway. Also, it was $60 cheaper and I'm cheap |
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Did you get 1-7 or 1-8 twist?
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Originally Posted By Mattyvac: Stainless and CMV are no different in terms of accuracy. They differ in how the barrel wears over time. Stainless will be good for about 5000 rounds and then all of a sudden shoot like birdshot all over the place, the CMV will shoot good for about the same, but then slowly taper off in terms of performance- IE the group size will slowly open up for the next 1000-2000 rounds. This is due to SS being softer than CMV and the throat erosion is more dramatic, as well as overall wear patterns due to the softness. The stainless has another positive in that it won't rust, but if your CMV is properly parkerized, cerakoted, painted, or lubed that wont happen anyway. Also, it was $60 cheaper and I'm cheap View Quote |
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Originally Posted By dangerdan: Then maybe you shouldn't have been the thread originator View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By dangerdan: Originally Posted By RTUtah: Originally Posted By dangerdan: You got the wrong paint. True operators use: http://d2dslulmm3ln9j.cloudfront.net/skilcraft-so-sure-green-34082-primer-coating.jpg http://d2dslulmm3ln9j.cloudfront.net/skilcraft-so-sure-tan-obliterating-compound.jpg Skillcraft FTMFW If you arent aware, Skilcraft makes alot of stuff for the Gov't https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRJeO8cryu6L1Wf2Eu62vMV_SyZSTRlBRfeE6B0PWCy4i-OZkeT Then maybe you shouldn't have been the thread originator Well now that's just real retarded, sir.
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http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1604816_Gentle_Propositions____BOOK_IS_LIVE_ON_AMAZON___.html
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Originally Posted By Mattyvac: Stainless and CMV are no different in terms of accuracy. They differ in how the barrel wears over time. Stainless will be good for about 5000 rounds and then all of a sudden shoot like birdshot all over the place, the CMV will shoot good for about the same, but then slowly taper off in terms of performance- IE the group size will slowly open up for the next 1000-2000 rounds. This is due to SS being softer than CMV and the throat erosion is more dramatic, as well as overall wear patterns due to the softness. The stainless has another positive in that it won't rust, but if your CMV is properly parkerized, cerakoted, painted, or lubed that wont happen anyway. Also, it was $60 cheaper and I'm cheap View Quote If accuracy is exactly the same in both CMV and SS then why do sniper rifles and DMR guns typically use SS barrels? I thought SS was THE barrel to use on any kind of precision rifle because of accuracy? EDIT: Just an honest question. |
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Originally Posted By secretwheelman:
I have the Gen2 Midot in my Vari-X III and love it. And that CAR looks pretty sweet on there. I picked up a pre-ban CAR and put in on my GenIII mod0 for shits and giggles. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By secretwheelman:
Originally Posted By gunnut003:
I guess a Vari-X III non-illum with FFP Premier Mildot reticle will have to do... http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz329/gunnut003/100_2081.jpg ETA: before anyone asks, it is a WEAVER rail, and Unknown VORTEX rings. And that CAR looks pretty sweet on there. I picked up a pre-ban CAR and put in on my GenIII mod0 for shits and giggles. You guys have good taste. I have the same scope and had a similar MK 12. I was thinking about building a Mod H or at least Mod H upper around the scope because I like it so much. Do it! |
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Originally Posted By wayfaerer320:
If accuracy is exactly the same in both CMV and SS then why do sniper rifles and DMR guns typically use SS barrels? I thought SS was THE barrel to use on any kind of precision rifle because of accuracy? EDIT: Just an honest question. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By wayfaerer320:
Originally Posted By Mattyvac:
Stainless and CMV are no different in terms of accuracy. They differ in how the barrel wears over time. Stainless will be good for about 5000 rounds and then all of a sudden shoot like birdshot all over the place, the CMV will shoot good for about the same, but then slowly taper off in terms of performance- IE the group size will slowly open up for the next 1000-2000 rounds. This is due to SS being softer than CMV and the throat erosion is more dramatic, as well as overall wear patterns due to the softness. The stainless has another positive in that it won't rust, but if your CMV is properly parkerized, cerakoted, painted, or lubed that wont happen anyway. Also, it was $60 cheaper and I'm cheap If accuracy is exactly the same in both CMV and SS then why do sniper rifles and DMR guns typically use SS barrels? I thought SS was THE barrel to use on any kind of precision rifle because of accuracy? EDIT: Just an honest question. Im no barrel expert but i THINK SS is more accurate because its softer and easier to machine to tighter tolerances.It is true that CMV will wear out slower than SS but dont think it will be as accurate over its lifetime. |
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Originally Posted By Mblades: You guys have good taste. I have the same scope and had a similar MK 12. I was thinking about building a Mod H or at least Mod H upper around the scope because I like it so much. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Mblades: Originally Posted By secretwheelman: Originally Posted By gunnut003: I guess a Vari-X III non-illum with FFP Premier Mildot reticle will have to do... http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz329/gunnut003/100_2081.jpg ETA: before anyone asks, it is a WEAVER rail, and Unknown VORTEX rings. And that CAR looks pretty sweet on there. I picked up a pre-ban CAR and put in on my GenIII mod0 for shits and giggles. You guys have good taste. I have the same scope and had a similar MK 12. I was thinking about building a Mod H or at least Mod H upper around the scope because I like it so much. After securing an early mod0 of my own, I remembered seeing yours with a CAR stock and debated going that route.... I'm still thinking about it. |
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Originally Posted By Mblades:
You guys have good taste. I have the same scope and had a similar MK 12. I was thinking about building a Mod H or at least Mod H upper around the scope because I like it so much. Do it! http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww232/Kyle_OA/cf47ca99-b6e3-4686-903f-99de77044eae_zpsbbecc957.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Mblades:
Originally Posted By secretwheelman:
Originally Posted By gunnut003:
I guess a Vari-X III non-illum with FFP Premier Mildot reticle will have to do... http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz329/gunnut003/100_2081.jpg ETA: before anyone asks, it is a WEAVER rail, and Unknown VORTEX rings. And that CAR looks pretty sweet on there. I picked up a pre-ban CAR and put in on my GenIII mod0 for shits and giggles. You guys have good taste. I have the same scope and had a similar MK 12. I was thinking about building a Mod H or at least Mod H upper around the scope because I like it so much. Do it! http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww232/Kyle_OA/cf47ca99-b6e3-4686-903f-99de77044eae_zpsbbecc957.jpg You can try, but you will never be able to replicate my Mk12 paint job |
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Uncle
Sam's Misguided Children ОПАСНО ДАН |
Originally Posted By deuc224:
Im no barrel expert but i THINK SS is more accurate because its softer and easier to machine to tighter tolerances.It is true that CMV will wear out slower than SS but dont think it will be as accurate over its lifetime. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By deuc224:
Originally Posted By wayfaerer320:
Originally Posted By Mattyvac:
Stainless and CMV are no different in terms of accuracy. They differ in how the barrel wears over time. Stainless will be good for about 5000 rounds and then all of a sudden shoot like birdshot all over the place, the CMV will shoot good for about the same, but then slowly taper off in terms of performance- IE the group size will slowly open up for the next 1000-2000 rounds. This is due to SS being softer than CMV and the throat erosion is more dramatic, as well as overall wear patterns due to the softness. The stainless has another positive in that it won't rust, but if your CMV is properly parkerized, cerakoted, painted, or lubed that wont happen anyway. Also, it was $60 cheaper and I'm cheap If accuracy is exactly the same in both CMV and SS then why do sniper rifles and DMR guns typically use SS barrels? I thought SS was THE barrel to use on any kind of precision rifle because of accuracy? EDIT: Just an honest question. Im no barrel expert but i THINK SS is more accurate because its softer and easier to machine to tighter tolerances.It is true that CMV will wear out slower than SS but dont think it will be as accurate over its lifetime. That used to be the case, but modern rifling techniques and tolerances have advanced and depending on the outfit can machine a cmr blank just as well as an SS blank. This is straight from the horses mouth at CLE. Originally Posted By Mad4wd:
Did you get 1-7 or 1-8 twist? 1:7 |
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View Quote Attaboy. Lay that mesh over the khaki and fog it with FDE to soften the contrast if you want. |
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http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1604816_Gentle_Propositions____BOOK_IS_LIVE_ON_AMAZON___.html
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View Quote Looks great.
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How close is PRI's flat dark earth to Magpul flat dark earth?
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Originally Posted By RTUtah:
I haven't heard too many good things about the KAC trigger. I'm using an LMT in mine and I like it. I tried a Geissele in a buddy's Mod0 but I really couldn't tell a huge difference. I'm sure the G is a way nicer trigger but I just didn't shoot it enough to feel the difference. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By RTUtah:
Originally Posted By secretwheelman:
What's the general consensus on triggers for an early mod0, KAC, or Geissele? I am quite familiar with Geissele, but does anyone have experience with the Knights 2-stage? I haven't heard too many good things about the KAC trigger. I'm using an LMT in mine and I like it. I tried a Geissele in a buddy's Mod0 but I really couldn't tell a huge difference. I'm sure the G is a way nicer trigger but I just didn't shoot it enough to feel the difference. I've read/heard about the problems KAC triggers had early on and from what I've gathered, that was with the adjustable ones that end users didn't adjust correctly rendering them inoperable or problematic. I personally have just over 16K through one of mine in my SR15 and have just over 25K total including the others I have in factory KAC rifles. I have never had any trigger issues to date and if I were to compare them to another trigger on the market, I would say that it feels similar to the Geissele SSA. Now, would I pay $300+ for one over te Geissele? Most likely never but, I wouldn't hesitate to use one on any of my rifles. |
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Freedom is not Free..
The 2nd Amendment is a RIGHT, not a Privilege... |
Originally Posted By jBoy723: I've read/heard about the problems KAC triggers had early on and from what I've gathered, that was with the adjustable ones that end users didn't adjust correctly rendering them inoperable or problematic. I personally have just over 16K through one of mine in my SR15 and have just over 25K total including the others I have in factory KAC rifles. I have never had any trigger issues to date and if I were to compare them to another trigger on the market, I would say that it feels similar to the Geissele SSA. Now, would I pay $300+ for one over te Geissele? Most likely never but, I wouldn't hesitate to use one on any of my rifles. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By jBoy723: Originally Posted By RTUtah: Originally Posted By secretwheelman: What's the general consensus on triggers for an early mod0, KAC, or Geissele? I am quite familiar with Geissele, but does anyone have experience with the Knights 2-stage? I haven't heard too many good things about the KAC trigger. I'm using an LMT in mine and I like it. I tried a Geissele in a buddy's Mod0 but I really couldn't tell a huge difference. I'm sure the G is a way nicer trigger but I just didn't shoot it enough to feel the difference. I've read/heard about the problems KAC triggers had early on and from what I've gathered, that was with the adjustable ones that end users didn't adjust correctly rendering them inoperable or problematic. I personally have just over 16K through one of mine in my SR15 and have just over 25K total including the others I have in factory KAC rifles. I have never had any trigger issues to date and if I were to compare them to another trigger on the market, I would say that it feels similar to the Geissele SSA. Now, would I pay $300+ for one over te Geissele? Most likely never but, I wouldn't hesitate to use one on any of my rifles. Roger, good info. Thanks.
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http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1604816_Gentle_Propositions____BOOK_IS_LIVE_ON_AMAZON___.html
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