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Posted: 9/13/2016 10:17:48 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cbfurg: Thanks! For the price it was worth the extra 20min of work. Since I'm rattlecanning it anyways, I don't care about how it looks! Speaking of which, anybody around the Austin TX area interested in teaching a dude how to paint a rifle? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cbfurg: Originally Posted By RTUtah: Originally Posted By cbfurg: I'm an impatient cuss. It says it cures in an hour and I waited like 5 (not the planned 24). It hardened up and sanded fine so I don't think it was affected at all by only a 5 hour wait. Here are the results: http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8103.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8104.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8101.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8102.jpg Feels pretty smooth. I bet with a coat of paint, they'll disappear. Well done! Thanks! For the price it was worth the extra 20min of work. Since I'm rattlecanning it anyways, I don't care about how it looks! Speaking of which, anybody around the Austin TX area interested in teaching a dude how to paint a rifle? i am gonna have to make a how to video one day. i have done it enough to just know how to do it in my sleep. that jb should work. i really wanna do my SBR lower....its a spikes and i dont need the bullet mark safety and the really ugly spider rollmark. |
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Posted: 9/13/2016 10:19:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: secretwheelman]
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BePhreed: What unmount are you all using? The recon or extra/ultra high? I'm thinking about going in that direction for a 2.5-8 and prefer to shoot NTCH. http://www.badgerordnance.com/unimounts/30-mm-1-piece-unimount-ultra-high-1-4-high-4-65-long.html  |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 9/13/2016 10:20:04 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RTUtah:
I'm about to cover up the DPMS trades for my SR-25 Shrecce build. Hope they turn out that good. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RTUtah:
Originally Posted By cbfurg:
Originally Posted By RTUtah:
Originally Posted By cbfurg:
I'm an impatient cuss. It says it cures in an hour and I waited like 5 (not the planned 24). It hardened up and sanded fine so I don't think it was affected at all by only a 5 hour wait. Here are the results: http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8103.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8104.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8101.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8102.jpg Feels pretty smooth. I bet with a coat of paint, they'll disappear. Well done! Thanks! For the price it was worth the extra 20min of work. Since I'm rattlecanning it anyways, I don't care about how it looks! Speaking of which, anybody around the Austin TX area interested in teaching a dude how to paint a rifle? I'm about to cover up the DPMS trades for my SR-25 Shrecce build. Hope they turn out that good. I used an already used sanding sponge to sand it down. It probably took a little longer but I think it helped make sure it was smooth when finished! |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 9/13/2016 10:21:46 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HaveBlue83:
i am gonna have to make a how to video one day. i have done it enough to just know how to do it in my sleep. that jb should work. i really wanna do my SBR lower....its a spikes and i dont need the bullet mark safety and the really ugly spider rollmark. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HaveBlue83:
Originally Posted By cbfurg:
Originally Posted By RTUtah:
Originally Posted By cbfurg:
I'm an impatient cuss. It says it cures in an hour and I waited like 5 (not the planned 24). It hardened up and sanded fine so I don't think it was affected at all by only a 5 hour wait. Here are the results: http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8103.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8104.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8101.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8102.jpg Feels pretty smooth. I bet with a coat of paint, they'll disappear. Well done! Thanks! For the price it was worth the extra 20min of work. Since I'm rattlecanning it anyways, I don't care about how it looks! Speaking of which, anybody around the Austin TX area interested in teaching a dude how to paint a rifle? i am gonna have to make a how to video one day. i have done it enough to just know how to do it in my sleep. that jb should work. i really wanna do my SBR lower....its a spikes and i dont need the bullet mark safety and the really ugly spider rollmark. You should. Your Mod H paint is the business. I hope mine comes out half as "good" 
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Posted: 9/14/2016 12:20:31 AM EDT
[Last Edit: lancecriminal86]
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cbfurg:
Thanks! For the price it was worth the extra 20min of work. Since I'm rattlecanning it anyways, I don't care about how it looks! Speaking of which, anybody around the Austin TX area interested in teaching a dude how to paint a rifle? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cbfurg:
Originally Posted By RTUtah:
Originally Posted By cbfurg:
I'm an impatient cuss. It says it cures in an hour and I waited like 5 (not the planned 24). It hardened up and sanded fine so I don't think it was affected at all by only a 5 hour wait. Here are the results: http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8103.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8104.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8101.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8102.jpg Feels pretty smooth. I bet with a coat of paint, they'll disappear. Well done! Thanks! For the price it was worth the extra 20min of work. Since I'm rattlecanning it anyways, I don't care about how it looks! Speaking of which, anybody around the Austin TX area interested in teaching a dude how to paint a rifle? I might be down... I'm up in G-town. It really in't that tough, I do it the "fuck it" method which is basically close ejection port, put a shitty mag in, cover the optics with tape and toilet paper, then spray the bitch. No prep really. |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 9/14/2016 3:45:10 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RTUtah:
I'm about to cover up the DPMS trades for my SR-25 Shrecce build. Hope they turn out that good. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RTUtah:
Originally Posted By cbfurg:
Originally Posted By RTUtah:
Originally Posted By cbfurg:
I'm an impatient cuss. It says it cures in an hour and I waited like 5 (not the planned 24). It hardened up and sanded fine so I don't think it was affected at all by only a 5 hour wait. Here are the results: http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8103.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8104.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8101.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8102.jpg Feels pretty smooth. I bet with a coat of paint, they'll disappear. Well done! Thanks! For the price it was worth the extra 20min of work. Since I'm rattlecanning it anyways, I don't care about how it looks! Speaking of which, anybody around the Austin TX area interested in teaching a dude how to paint a rifle? I'm about to cover up the DPMS trades for my SR-25 Shrecce build. Hope they turn out that good. JB weld worked awesome for me. I applied it, went over it with a long razor blade on a 45 degree angle to get off excess, let it dry, sanded, painted...looks fuckin factory |
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Posted: 9/14/2016 7:33:38 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By lancecriminal86: I might be down... I'm up in G-town. It really in't that tough, I do it the "fuck it" method which is basically close ejection port, put a shitty mag in, cover the optics with tape and toilet paper, then spray the bitch. No prep really. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By lancecriminal86: Originally Posted By cbfurg: Originally Posted By RTUtah: Originally Posted By cbfurg: I'm an impatient cuss. It says it cures in an hour and I waited like 5 (not the planned 24). It hardened up and sanded fine so I don't think it was affected at all by only a 5 hour wait. Here are the results: http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8103.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8104.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8101.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8102.jpg Feels pretty smooth. I bet with a coat of paint, they'll disappear. Well done! Thanks! For the price it was worth the extra 20min of work. Since I'm rattlecanning it anyways, I don't care about how it looks! Speaking of which, anybody around the Austin TX area interested in teaching a dude how to paint a rifle? I might be down... I'm up in G-town. It really in't that tough, I do it the "fuck it" method which is basically close ejection port, put a shitty mag in, cover the optics with tape and toilet paper, then spray the bitch. No prep really. That's how it's fucking done. |
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Posted: 9/14/2016 7:37:21 AM EDT
[Last Edit: RTUtah]
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Davey_Sickboy: JB weld worked awesome for me. I applied it, went over it with a long razor blade on a 45 degree angle to get off excess, let it dry, sanded, painted...looks fuckin factory Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Davey_Sickboy: Originally Posted By RTUtah: Originally Posted By cbfurg: Originally Posted By RTUtah: Originally Posted By cbfurg: I'm an impatient cuss. It says it cures in an hour and I waited like 5 (not the planned 24). It hardened up and sanded fine so I don't think it was affected at all by only a 5 hour wait. Here are the results: http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8103.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8104.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8101.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8102.jpg Feels pretty smooth. I bet with a coat of paint, they'll disappear. Well done! Thanks! For the price it was worth the extra 20min of work. Since I'm rattlecanning it anyways, I don't care about how it looks! Speaking of which, anybody around the Austin TX area interested in teaching a dude how to paint a rifle? I'm about to cover up the DPMS trades for my SR-25 Shrecce build. Hope they turn out that good. JB weld worked awesome for me. I applied it, went over it with a long razor blade on a 45 degree angle to get off excess, let it dry, sanded, painted...looks fuckin factory So you did .308 DPMS trades, or that's the method you used on another lower? Reason I ask is because the .308 DPMS trades are pretty tight between the top edge of the lower and the serials. It's gonna be tricky getting in there with a razor blade but that's how it's done. I'm gonna hafta mask the trades off and drag downward, then peel the masking tape off the serials and pull that roll of JB Weld away so there's not a hard edge to sand down where the tape-line was.
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FL, USA
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Posted: 9/14/2016 11:32:36 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By lancecriminal86:
I might be down... I'm up in G-town. It really in't that tough, I do it the "fuck it" method which is basically close ejection port, put a shitty mag in, cover the optics with tape and toilet paper, then spray the bitch. No prep really. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By lancecriminal86:
Originally Posted By cbfurg:
Originally Posted By RTUtah:
Originally Posted By cbfurg:
I'm an impatient cuss. It says it cures in an hour and I waited like 5 (not the planned 24). It hardened up and sanded fine so I don't think it was affected at all by only a 5 hour wait. Here are the results: http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8103.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8104.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8101.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8102.jpg Feels pretty smooth. I bet with a coat of paint, they'll disappear. Well done! Thanks! For the price it was worth the extra 20min of work. Since I'm rattlecanning it anyways, I don't care about how it looks! Speaking of which, anybody around the Austin TX area interested in teaching a dude how to paint a rifle? I might be down... I'm up in G-town. It really in't that tough, I do it the "fuck it" method which is basically close ejection port, put a shitty mag in, cover the optics with tape and toilet paper, then spray the bitch. No prep really. Yeah, I do that too...... except then I proceed to rip painters tape for an hour and come back in the house looking like a rejected inspiration model for a low budget horror film. |
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Posted: 9/14/2016 12:32:11 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Hunterex:
Yeah, I do that too...... except then I proceed to rip painters tape for an hour and come back in the house looking like a rejected inspiration model for a low budget horror film. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Hunterex:
Originally Posted By lancecriminal86:
Originally Posted By cbfurg:
Originally Posted By RTUtah:
Originally Posted By cbfurg:
I'm an impatient cuss. It says it cures in an hour and I waited like 5 (not the planned 24). It hardened up and sanded fine so I don't think it was affected at all by only a 5 hour wait. Here are the results: http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8103.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8104.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8101.jpg http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae16/cbfurg/IMG_8102.jpg Feels pretty smooth. I bet with a coat of paint, they'll disappear. Well done! Thanks! For the price it was worth the extra 20min of work. Since I'm rattlecanning it anyways, I don't care about how it looks! Speaking of which, anybody around the Austin TX area interested in teaching a dude how to paint a rifle? I might be down... I'm up in G-town. It really in't that tough, I do it the "fuck it" method which is basically close ejection port, put a shitty mag in, cover the optics with tape and toilet paper, then spray the bitch. No prep really. Yeah, I do that too...... except then I proceed to rip painters tape for an hour and come back in the house looking like a rejected inspiration model for a low budget horror film. Yeah, but your paint jobs are fucking awesome and look like snake skin. Our paintjobs look like a rattle can was hit by a lawnmower. I'd know, I ran over a spray can with a lawnmower for fun 
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WI, USA
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Posted: 9/14/2016 1:21:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: JJREA]
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TinyCrumb:
I think the only kind of shooting I do with my Mk 12 is "precision" shooting. I've produced plenty of sub MOA groups at 100yds and have gotten consistent hits out to 700+ and even one at 800 (12" plate) a month or so ago. I can't think of why it would make any difference unless you think you're not getting enough LOP to get proper eye relief? Other than that it's just a piece of plastic that sits in my shoulder. I definitely do more prone shooting than bench shooting though. Although the 100yd groups are usually from a bench. Either way though, I'm not sure any of our experiences are going to mean much. If you shoot better with a different stock them use it!! If you want to keep things light, you could try a waffle - they're about just as light but have a longer toe on them. The Magpul CTR is a great choice. And of course you could try something with a good cheek rest like the SOPMOD or ACS but then you're adding weight. I'd just try out a few different things and stick with whatever works.  Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TinyCrumb:
Originally Posted By JJREA:
Any of you guys with CAR stocks do any precision shooting with them on? I keep going back and forth about stocks. I like the CAR, but the last time I tried to shoot it from the bench, it wasn't doing my any favors. Just curious if you have some tips on what you do. I do have a rubber buttpad I can throw on there and that might help. I like it because it's light and it helps make my recce lighter. And I don't mind it shooting off hand or just sitting or whatever. But when really trying to dial in, the others are better. But maybe there's a technique I don't know that can help. Awww crap, top of page. http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o475/NomadABPos/gun%20album%20I%202015/1492059553_zpsrhzrxgfp.jpg I think the only kind of shooting I do with my Mk 12 is "precision" shooting. I've produced plenty of sub MOA groups at 100yds and have gotten consistent hits out to 700+ and even one at 800 (12" plate) a month or so ago. I can't think of why it would make any difference unless you think you're not getting enough LOP to get proper eye relief? Other than that it's just a piece of plastic that sits in my shoulder. I definitely do more prone shooting than bench shooting though. Although the 100yd groups are usually from a bench. Either way though, I'm not sure any of our experiences are going to mean much. If you shoot better with a different stock them use it!! If you want to keep things light, you could try a waffle - they're about just as light but have a longer toe on them. The Magpul CTR is a great choice. And of course you could try something with a good cheek rest like the SOPMOD or ACS but then you're adding weight. I'd just try out a few different things and stick with whatever works. So can I ask how you do it specifically, in regards to holding the rear in? Do you wrap your left arm under and hold the bottom of the buttstock, with some kind of bag too? Either prone or from the bench? You have a CAR stock on your Mk12? Are you talking about an 18"er or a holland build. Now I gotta go back and look for your builds. LOL. I haven't tried it a lot with the CAR stock. Last range session I put on a B5 sopmod and it works really well for precision shooting, but yeah, it's like double the weight or more. I forget if the CAR is as low as 3 ounces but my sopmod is like 8.5. Anyways.... A few other times I shot without a rear bag and the CAR and it just seemed to not stay put very well. I'm sure it's partly me, and the fact that I didn't bag it in the rear. Probably sand is the best, but I was just curious as to what your set up is. And if you're getting sub moa with no rear bag, I'm totally envious and you should make videos on how to shoot like a stud. Especially if it's not handloads. This the one you are referring to? I googled it instead of trying to go back 7 million pages. LOL. 
And yeah, I might try the waffle my next range session. I know, non Mk12 but what the heck. 
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Posted: 9/14/2016 1:38:00 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TinyCrumb]
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JJREA:
So can I ask how you do it specifically, in regards to holding the rear in? Do you wrap your left arm under and hold the bottom of the buttstock, with some kind of bag too? Either prone or from the bench? You have a CAR stock on your Mk12? Are you talking about an 18"er or a holland build. Now I gotta go back and look for your builds. LOL. I haven't tried it a lot with the CAR stock. Last range session I put on a B5 sopmod and it works really well for precision shooting, but yeah, it's like double the weight or more. I forget if the CAR is as low as 3 ounces but my sopmod is like 8.5. Anyways.... A few other times I shot without a rear bag and the CAR and it just seemed to not stay put very well. I'm sure it's partly me, and the fact that I didn't bag it in the rear. Probably sand is the best, but I was just curious as to what your set up is. And if you're getting sub moa with no rear bag, I'm totally envious and you should make videos on how to shoot like a stud. Especially if it's not handloads. This the one you are referring to? I googled it instead of trying to go back 7 million pages. LOL. http://i.imgur.com/rnF0cE4.jpg Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JJREA:
Originally Posted By TinyCrumb:
Originally Posted By JJREA:
Any of you guys with CAR stocks do any precision shooting with them on? I keep going back and forth about stocks. I like the CAR, but the last time I tried to shoot it from the bench, it wasn't doing my any favors. Just curious if you have some tips on what you do. I do have a rubber buttpad I can throw on there and that might help. I like it because it's light and it helps make my recce lighter. And I don't mind it shooting off hand or just sitting or whatever. But when really trying to dial in, the others are better. But maybe there's a technique I don't know that can help. Awww crap, top of page. http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o475/NomadABPos/gun%20album%20I%202015/1492059553_zpsrhzrxgfp.jpg I think the only kind of shooting I do with my Mk 12 is "precision" shooting. I've produced plenty of sub MOA groups at 100yds and have gotten consistent hits out to 700+ and even one at 800 (12" plate) a month or so ago. I can't think of why it would make any difference unless you think you're not getting enough LOP to get proper eye relief? Other than that it's just a piece of plastic that sits in my shoulder. I definitely do more prone shooting than bench shooting though. Although the 100yd groups are usually from a bench. Either way though, I'm not sure any of our experiences are going to mean much. If you shoot better with a different stock them use it!! If you want to keep things light, you could try a waffle - they're about just as light but have a longer toe on them. The Magpul CTR is a great choice. And of course you could try something with a good cheek rest like the SOPMOD or ACS but then you're adding weight. I'd just try out a few different things and stick with whatever works. So can I ask how you do it specifically, in regards to holding the rear in? Do you wrap your left arm under and hold the bottom of the buttstock, with some kind of bag too? Either prone or from the bench? You have a CAR stock on your Mk12? Are you talking about an 18"er or a holland build. Now I gotta go back and look for your builds. LOL. I haven't tried it a lot with the CAR stock. Last range session I put on a B5 sopmod and it works really well for precision shooting, but yeah, it's like double the weight or more. I forget if the CAR is as low as 3 ounces but my sopmod is like 8.5. Anyways.... A few other times I shot without a rear bag and the CAR and it just seemed to not stay put very well. I'm sure it's partly me, and the fact that I didn't bag it in the rear. Probably sand is the best, but I was just curious as to what your set up is. And if you're getting sub moa with no rear bag, I'm totally envious and you should make videos on how to shoot like a stud. Especially if it's not handloads. This the one you are referring to? I googled it instead of trying to go back 7 million pages. LOL. http://i.imgur.com/rnF0cE4.jpg It really depends on the situation and what position I'm in. I'm I'm doing something like coyote hunting I'm usually somewhat elevated so it's easy to get the left hand under the stock. Sometimes the position I'll have to have the left hand on the handguard. And from the bench it just all depends on the height of the gun. I have an ACE stock on my Holland right now but I used to run the CAR on it, for a couple years exclusively probably. Easily one of my all time favorite stocks because of the size/weight. Here's a video I recorded awhile back of shooting groups. I wanted to go off the front bipod on the bench so I ended up putting a rear bag underneath the pistol grip and using my left hand to adjust with it … worked fine. And this was with the bipod unsupported too so not a lot of load on it. That said, about the only time I even try to shoot for groups is when I'm getting it sighted in or checking zero. I much prefer just going out in the desert and setting up steel at random distances, stretching its legs, and/or doing coyote/bunny/rock chuck hunting with it. IMO the Mk 12 is not a bench rifle. ETA: Yes, that's my rifle in the pic you posted. 
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Posted: 9/14/2016 1:52:06 PM EDT
[#13]
There are some #22 high non-lever stops in the EE. Not mine and WAY more than I'd ever consider paying but someone may feel differently.
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Posted: 9/14/2016 2:54:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Into_the_Void]
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JJREA:
So can I ask how you do it specifically, in regards to holding the rear in? Do you wrap your left arm under and hold the bottom of the buttstock, with some kind of bag too? Either prone or from the bench? You have a CAR stock on your Mk12? Are you talking about an 18"er or a holland build. Now I gotta go back and look for your builds. LOL. I haven't tried it a lot with the CAR stock. Last range session I put on a B5 sopmod and it works really well for precision shooting, but yeah, it's like double the weight or more. I forget if the CAR is as low as 3 ounces but my sopmod is like 8.5. Anyways.... A few other times I shot without a rear bag and the CAR and it just seemed to not stay put very well. I'm sure it's partly me, and the fact that I didn't bag it in the rear. Probably sand is the best, but I was just curious as to what your set up is. And if you're getting sub moa with no rear bag, I'm totally envious and you should make videos on how to shoot like a stud. Especially if it's not handloads. This the one you are referring to? I googled it instead of trying to go back 7 million pages. LOL. http://i.imgur.com/rnF0cE4.jpg And yeah, I might try the waffle my next range session. I know, non Mk12 but what the heck. http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o475/NomadABPos/2016%20guns/2016%20guns%20II/IMG_7727_zpsbn3ztwvf.jpg Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JJREA:
Originally Posted By TinyCrumb:
Originally Posted By JJREA:
Any of you guys with CAR stocks do any precision shooting with them on? I keep going back and forth about stocks. I like the CAR, but the last time I tried to shoot it from the bench, it wasn't doing my any favors. Just curious if you have some tips on what you do. I do have a rubber buttpad I can throw on there and that might help. I like it because it's light and it helps make my recce lighter. And I don't mind it shooting off hand or just sitting or whatever. But when really trying to dial in, the others are better. But maybe there's a technique I don't know that can help. Awww crap, top of page. http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o475/NomadABPos/gun%20album%20I%202015/1492059553_zpsrhzrxgfp.jpg I think the only kind of shooting I do with my Mk 12 is "precision" shooting. I've produced plenty of sub MOA groups at 100yds and have gotten consistent hits out to 700+ and even one at 800 (12" plate) a month or so ago. I can't think of why it would make any difference unless you think you're not getting enough LOP to get proper eye relief? Other than that it's just a piece of plastic that sits in my shoulder. I definitely do more prone shooting than bench shooting though. Although the 100yd groups are usually from a bench. Either way though, I'm not sure any of our experiences are going to mean much. If you shoot better with a different stock them use it!! If you want to keep things light, you could try a waffle - they're about just as light but have a longer toe on them. The Magpul CTR is a great choice. And of course you could try something with a good cheek rest like the SOPMOD or ACS but then you're adding weight. I'd just try out a few different things and stick with whatever works. So can I ask how you do it specifically, in regards to holding the rear in? Do you wrap your left arm under and hold the bottom of the buttstock, with some kind of bag too? Either prone or from the bench? You have a CAR stock on your Mk12? Are you talking about an 18"er or a holland build. Now I gotta go back and look for your builds. LOL. I haven't tried it a lot with the CAR stock. Last range session I put on a B5 sopmod and it works really well for precision shooting, but yeah, it's like double the weight or more. I forget if the CAR is as low as 3 ounces but my sopmod is like 8.5. Anyways.... A few other times I shot without a rear bag and the CAR and it just seemed to not stay put very well. I'm sure it's partly me, and the fact that I didn't bag it in the rear. Probably sand is the best, but I was just curious as to what your set up is. And if you're getting sub moa with no rear bag, I'm totally envious and you should make videos on how to shoot like a stud. Especially if it's not handloads. This the one you are referring to? I googled it instead of trying to go back 7 million pages. LOL. http://i.imgur.com/rnF0cE4.jpg And yeah, I might try the waffle my next range session. I know, non Mk12 but what the heck. http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o475/NomadABPos/2016%20guns/2016%20guns%20II/IMG_7727_zpsbn3ztwvf.jpg I'm far from a shooting ace, but it sounds like you may be putting too much stock in the stock (LAWLCWATIDIDTHAR )
Take your off hand/arm and put tension on the sling, pulling it down (if on bipod) and back. Stock won't matter and the rifle will act like it's in a vise mounted to the ground. |
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Posted: 9/14/2016 2:55:40 PM EDT
[#15]
How much?
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Samson-Dogg: There are some #22 high non-lever stops in the EE. Not mine and WAY more than I'd ever consider paying but someone may feel differently. |
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Posted: 9/14/2016 3:00:38 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By secretwheelman: How much? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By secretwheelman: How much? Originally Posted By Samson-Dogg: There are some #22 high non-lever stops in the EE. Not mine and WAY more than I'd ever consider paying but someone may feel differently. $240.  |
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Posted: 9/14/2016 3:01:08 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By secretwheelman:
How much? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By secretwheelman:
How much? Originally Posted By Samson-Dogg:
There are some #22 high non-lever stops in the EE. Not mine and WAY more than I'd ever consider paying but someone may feel differently. If it's the ad I'm seeing, well over 2 bills. |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 9/14/2016 3:20:28 PM EDT
[Last Edit: JJREA]
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SDMF_Rebel:
I'm far from a shooting ace, but it sounds like you may be putting too much stock in the stock (LAWLCWATIDIDTHAR )
Take your off hand/arm and put tension on the sling, pulling it down (if on bipod) and back. Stock won't matter and the rifle will act like it's in a vise mounted to the ground. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SDMF_Rebel:
Originally Posted By JJREA:
Originally Posted By TinyCrumb:
Originally Posted By JJREA:
Any of you guys with CAR stocks do any precision shooting with them on? I keep going back and forth about stocks. I like the CAR, but the last time I tried to shoot it from the bench, it wasn't doing my any favors. Just curious if you have some tips on what you do. I do have a rubber buttpad I can throw on there and that might help. I like it because it's light and it helps make my recce lighter. And I don't mind it shooting off hand or just sitting or whatever. But when really trying to dial in, the others are better. But maybe there's a technique I don't know that can help. Awww crap, top of page. http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o475/NomadABPos/gun%20album%20I%202015/1492059553_zpsrhzrxgfp.jpg I think the only kind of shooting I do with my Mk 12 is "precision" shooting. I've produced plenty of sub MOA groups at 100yds and have gotten consistent hits out to 700+ and even one at 800 (12" plate) a month or so ago. I can't think of why it would make any difference unless you think you're not getting enough LOP to get proper eye relief? Other than that it's just a piece of plastic that sits in my shoulder. I definitely do more prone shooting than bench shooting though. Although the 100yd groups are usually from a bench. Either way though, I'm not sure any of our experiences are going to mean much. If you shoot better with a different stock them use it!! If you want to keep things light, you could try a waffle - they're about just as light but have a longer toe on them. The Magpul CTR is a great choice. And of course you could try something with a good cheek rest like the SOPMOD or ACS but then you're adding weight. I'd just try out a few different things and stick with whatever works. So can I ask how you do it specifically, in regards to holding the rear in? Do you wrap your left arm under and hold the bottom of the buttstock, with some kind of bag too? Either prone or from the bench? You have a CAR stock on your Mk12? Are you talking about an 18"er or a holland build. Now I gotta go back and look for your builds. LOL. I haven't tried it a lot with the CAR stock. Last range session I put on a B5 sopmod and it works really well for precision shooting, but yeah, it's like double the weight or more. I forget if the CAR is as low as 3 ounces but my sopmod is like 8.5. Anyways.... A few other times I shot without a rear bag and the CAR and it just seemed to not stay put very well. I'm sure it's partly me, and the fact that I didn't bag it in the rear. Probably sand is the best, but I was just curious as to what your set up is. And if you're getting sub moa with no rear bag, I'm totally envious and you should make videos on how to shoot like a stud. Especially if it's not handloads. This the one you are referring to? I googled it instead of trying to go back 7 million pages. LOL. http://i.imgur.com/rnF0cE4.jpg And yeah, I might try the waffle my next range session. I know, non Mk12 but what the heck. http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o475/NomadABPos/2016%20guns/2016%20guns%20II/IMG_7727_zpsbn3ztwvf.jpg I'm far from a shooting ace, but it sounds like you may be putting too much stock in the stock (LAWLCWATIDIDTHAR )
Take your off hand/arm and put tension on the sling, pulling it down (if on bipod) and back. Stock won't matter and the rifle will act like it's in a vise mounted to the ground. Oh Crap, TinyCrumb, I never thought of putting a bag underneath the pistol grip. See, this is why I asked. I don't know why that never dawned on me. LOL. I'm a little slow I guess. And SDMF Rebel, I don't claim to be any great shot either. I have gotten some good groups in the past. I used to shoot a lot prone, for groups. But these last few years I just shoot offhand, or using a mag as a bipod, or just whatever. Just zeroing and having fun. A lot of it had to do with always keeping an eye on my kids, so I don't get too wrapped up in my own shooting. But lately I've been wanting to get real dialed in again. And in my experience, a big stock will make it easier. You don't typically see sniper rifles with CAR stocks on them. But whatever. I probably am putting too much stock in the stock. (good play on words), but then again, maybe not. It's that whole upside downside thing. The upside to a bigger stock is more real estate for resting places. The downside is it's heavier. And then vice versa for the CAR. Here's some proof that I've had times where I can shoot (a range session early on with my recce, bipod and bagged rear, A2 stock and a heavy normal GI single stage trigger, colt) Yes it's a 100 yards 5 shots each, and that stuff is the stuff that WWB used to sell that was made in Israel. The stuff was crazy good for the price: 
Admittedly that was that wasthe only sub MOA group I got from my recce. I could usually do 1-1.5 MOA pretty regularly with the right ammo though. |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 9/14/2016 3:28:18 PM EDT
[#19]
I know im gonna feel like an idiot once this is explained...but i cannot seem to find a picture showing the difference of the new arms rings vs the non-hump arms rings.
Can someone show me? Thanks guys. |
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Posted: 9/14/2016 3:36:15 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ArmedFerret:
If it's the ad I'm seeing, well over 2 bills. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ArmedFerret:
Originally Posted By secretwheelman:
How much? Originally Posted By Samson-Dogg:
There are some #22 high non-lever stops in the EE. Not mine and WAY more than I'd ever consider paying but someone may feel differently. If it's the ad I'm seeing, well over 2 bills. Yep...that's the one. I guess there's a taker for all deals but that's way up there. As far as the leverstops go if you look at a new set of rings you'll see large stops that stop the lever at a 90 deg angle. Non-leverstop rings do not have that stop and the lever will go 180 deg from locked to unlocked. |
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Posted: 9/14/2016 3:36:37 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JJREA:
Oh Crap, TinyCrumb, I never thought of putting a bag underneath the pistol grip. See, this is why I asked. I don't know why that never dawned on me. LOL. I'm a little slow I guess. And SDMF Rebel, I don't claim to be any great shot either. I have gotten some good groups in the past. I used to shoot a lot prone, for groups. But these last few years I just shoot offhand, or using a mag as a bipod, or just whatever. Just zeroing and having fun. A lot of it had to do with always keeping an eye on my kids, so I don't get too wrapped up in my own shooting. But lately I've been wanting to get real dialed in again. And in my experience, a big stock will make it easier. You don't typically see sniper rifles with CAR stocks on them. But whatever. I probably am putting too much stock in the stock. (good play on words), but then again, maybe not. It's that whole upside downside thing. The upside to a bigger stock is more real estate for resting places. The downside is it's heavier. And then vice versa for the CAR. Here's some proof that I've had times where I can shoot (a range session early on with my recce, bipod and bagged rear, A2 stock and a heavy normal GI single stage trigger, colt) Yes it's a 100 yards 5 shots each, and that stuff is the stuff that WWB used to sell that was made in Israel. The stuff was crazy good for the price: http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o475/NomadABPos/2016%20guns/2016%20guns%20II/100_0916_zpsgeds100z.jpg http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o475/NomadABPos/2016%20guns/2016%20guns%20II/100_0915_zpszveacjjo.jpg http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o475/NomadABPos/2016%20guns/2016%20guns%20II/100_0912_zpsygcgkfvy.jpg http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o475/NomadABPos/2016%20guns/2016%20guns%20II/100_0911_zpsvymjj7i2.jpg Admittedly that was that wasthe only sub MOA group I got from my recce. I could usually do 1-1.5 MOA pretty regularly with the right ammo though. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JJREA:
Originally Posted By SDMF_Rebel:
Originally Posted By JJREA:
Originally Posted By TinyCrumb:
Originally Posted By JJREA:
Any of you guys with CAR stocks do any precision shooting with them on? I keep going back and forth about stocks. I like the CAR, but the last time I tried to shoot it from the bench, it wasn't doing my any favors. Just curious if you have some tips on what you do. I do have a rubber buttpad I can throw on there and that might help. I like it because it's light and it helps make my recce lighter. And I don't mind it shooting off hand or just sitting or whatever. But when really trying to dial in, the others are better. But maybe there's a technique I don't know that can help. Awww crap, top of page. http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o475/NomadABPos/gun%20album%20I%202015/1492059553_zpsrhzrxgfp.jpg I think the only kind of shooting I do with my Mk 12 is "precision" shooting. I've produced plenty of sub MOA groups at 100yds and have gotten consistent hits out to 700+ and even one at 800 (12" plate) a month or so ago. I can't think of why it would make any difference unless you think you're not getting enough LOP to get proper eye relief? Other than that it's just a piece of plastic that sits in my shoulder. I definitely do more prone shooting than bench shooting though. Although the 100yd groups are usually from a bench. Either way though, I'm not sure any of our experiences are going to mean much. If you shoot better with a different stock them use it!! If you want to keep things light, you could try a waffle - they're about just as light but have a longer toe on them. The Magpul CTR is a great choice. And of course you could try something with a good cheek rest like the SOPMOD or ACS but then you're adding weight. I'd just try out a few different things and stick with whatever works. So can I ask how you do it specifically, in regards to holding the rear in? Do you wrap your left arm under and hold the bottom of the buttstock, with some kind of bag too? Either prone or from the bench? You have a CAR stock on your Mk12? Are you talking about an 18"er or a holland build. Now I gotta go back and look for your builds. LOL. I haven't tried it a lot with the CAR stock. Last range session I put on a B5 sopmod and it works really well for precision shooting, but yeah, it's like double the weight or more. I forget if the CAR is as low as 3 ounces but my sopmod is like 8.5. Anyways.... A few other times I shot without a rear bag and the CAR and it just seemed to not stay put very well. I'm sure it's partly me, and the fact that I didn't bag it in the rear. Probably sand is the best, but I was just curious as to what your set up is. And if you're getting sub moa with no rear bag, I'm totally envious and you should make videos on how to shoot like a stud. Especially if it's not handloads. This the one you are referring to? I googled it instead of trying to go back 7 million pages. LOL. http://i.imgur.com/rnF0cE4.jpg And yeah, I might try the waffle my next range session. I know, non Mk12 but what the heck. http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o475/NomadABPos/2016%20guns/2016%20guns%20II/IMG_7727_zpsbn3ztwvf.jpg I'm far from a shooting ace, but it sounds like you may be putting too much stock in the stock (LAWLCWATIDIDTHAR )
Take your off hand/arm and put tension on the sling, pulling it down (if on bipod) and back. Stock won't matter and the rifle will act like it's in a vise mounted to the ground. Oh Crap, TinyCrumb, I never thought of putting a bag underneath the pistol grip. See, this is why I asked. I don't know why that never dawned on me. LOL. I'm a little slow I guess. And SDMF Rebel, I don't claim to be any great shot either. I have gotten some good groups in the past. I used to shoot a lot prone, for groups. But these last few years I just shoot offhand, or using a mag as a bipod, or just whatever. Just zeroing and having fun. A lot of it had to do with always keeping an eye on my kids, so I don't get too wrapped up in my own shooting. But lately I've been wanting to get real dialed in again. And in my experience, a big stock will make it easier. You don't typically see sniper rifles with CAR stocks on them. But whatever. I probably am putting too much stock in the stock. (good play on words), but then again, maybe not. It's that whole upside downside thing. The upside to a bigger stock is more real estate for resting places. The downside is it's heavier. And then vice versa for the CAR. Here's some proof that I've had times where I can shoot (a range session early on with my recce, bipod and bagged rear, A2 stock and a heavy normal GI single stage trigger, colt) Yes it's a 100 yards 5 shots each, and that stuff is the stuff that WWB used to sell that was made in Israel. The stuff was crazy good for the price: http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o475/NomadABPos/2016%20guns/2016%20guns%20II/100_0916_zpsgeds100z.jpg http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o475/NomadABPos/2016%20guns/2016%20guns%20II/100_0915_zpszveacjjo.jpg http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o475/NomadABPos/2016%20guns/2016%20guns%20II/100_0912_zpsygcgkfvy.jpg http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o475/NomadABPos/2016%20guns/2016%20guns%20II/100_0911_zpsvymjj7i2.jpg Admittedly that was that wasthe only sub MOA group I got from my recce. I could usually do 1-1.5 MOA pretty regularly with the right ammo though. Not sure why you're putting out the qualifiers. That's good shootin with a semi no matter how you slice it. And it's a lot better than a large sample of the members of this site could probably pull off with the same rig, so I wouldn't worry too much.
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Posted: 9/14/2016 4:21:02 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ArmedFerret: If it's the ad I'm seeing, well over 2 bills. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ArmedFerret: Originally Posted By secretwheelman: How much? Originally Posted By Samson-Dogg: There are some #22 high non-lever stops in the EE. Not mine and WAY more than I'd ever consider paying but someone may feel differently. If it's the ad I'm seeing, well over 2 bills. |
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Posted: 9/14/2016 4:52:56 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RTUtah: $240. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RTUtah: Originally Posted By secretwheelman: How much? Originally Posted By Samson-Dogg: There are some #22 high non-lever stops in the EE. Not mine and WAY more than I'd ever consider paying but someone may feel differently. $240. gtfo here. shit i need to sell my NLS mods i have in the box then. but not for that crazy price lol |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 9/14/2016 5:17:53 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Samson-Dogg:
Yep...that's the one. I guess there's a taker for all deals but that's way up there. As far as the leverstops go if you look at a new set of rings you'll see large stops that stop the lever at a 90 deg angle. Non-leverstop rings do not have that stop and the lever will go 180 deg from locked to unlocked. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Samson-Dogg:
Originally Posted By ArmedFerret:
Originally Posted By secretwheelman:
How much? Originally Posted By Samson-Dogg:
There are some #22 high non-lever stops in the EE. Not mine and WAY more than I'd ever consider paying but someone may feel differently. If it's the ad I'm seeing, well over 2 bills. Yep...that's the one. I guess there's a taker for all deals but that's way up there. As far as the leverstops go if you look at a new set of rings you'll see large stops that stop the lever at a 90 deg angle. Non-leverstop rings do not have that stop and the lever will go 180 deg from locked to unlocked. Ah that would make sense. I'm pretty handy with a dremel. Doesn't seem tough to do what Blue did and make them work like the "non lever stop" version. |
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Posted: 9/14/2016 5:18:26 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Samson-Dogg: There are some #22 high non-lever stops in the EE. Not mine and WAY more than I'd ever consider paying but someone may feel differently. No kidding I jumped over to post the same but am late to the party as usual. Sure, I want a set of no-humps. but let's be real. I don't what's worse the guy selling the Colt CQB 10.3" for $700 or $240 for ARMS rings  Someone will buy them, I'm sure. |
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Posted: 9/14/2016 6:14:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TinyCrumb]
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ArmedFerret:
Not sure why you're putting out the qualifiers. That's good shootin with a semi no matter how you slice it. And it's a lot better than a large sample of the members of this site could probably pull off with the same rig, so I wouldn't worry too much. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ArmedFerret:
Originally Posted By JJREA:
Oh Crap, TinyCrumb, I never thought of putting a bag underneath the pistol grip. See, this is why I asked. I don't know why that never dawned on me. LOL. I'm a little slow I guess. And SDMF Rebel, I don't claim to be any great shot either. I have gotten some good groups in the past. I used to shoot a lot prone, for groups. But these last few years I just shoot offhand, or using a mag as a bipod, or just whatever. Just zeroing and having fun. A lot of it had to do with always keeping an eye on my kids, so I don't get too wrapped up in my own shooting. But lately I've been wanting to get real dialed in again. And in my experience, a big stock will make it easier. You don't typically see sniper rifles with CAR stocks on them. But whatever. I probably am putting too much stock in the stock. (good play on words), but then again, maybe not. It's that whole upside downside thing. The upside to a bigger stock is more real estate for resting places. The downside is it's heavier. And then vice versa for the CAR. Here's some proof that I've had times where I can shoot (a range session early on with my recce, bipod and bagged rear, A2 stock and a heavy normal GI single stage trigger, colt) Yes it's a 100 yards 5 shots each, and that stuff is the stuff that WWB used to sell that was made in Israel. The stuff was crazy good for the price: http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o475/NomadABPos/2016%20guns/2016%20guns%20II/100_0916_zpsgeds100z.jpg http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o475/NomadABPos/2016%20guns/2016%20guns%20II/100_0915_zpszveacjjo.jpg http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o475/NomadABPos/2016%20guns/2016%20guns%20II/100_0912_zpsygcgkfvy.jpg http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o475/NomadABPos/2016%20guns/2016%20guns%20II/100_0911_zpsvymjj7i2.jpg Admittedly that was that wasthe only sub MOA group I got from my recce. I could usually do 1-1.5 MOA pretty regularly with the right ammo though. Not sure why you're putting out the qualifiers. That's good shootin with a semi no matter how you slice it. And it's a lot better than a large sample of the members of this site could probably pull off with the same rig, so I wouldn't worry too much. This! 1-1.5 MOA shooting with a Mk 12 is fantastic shooting and on the upper end of what this platform is capable of / designed for. The way I look at it is this: For me, when it comes to practical shooting with the Mk 12, lightweight is far more important to me than an extra .5 MOA in precision. It's precisely the reason I use a Holland over a Mod 0/1 even though I think they look better. When I take a shot on a Coyote, am I going to care if my shot is off by an extra inch or so at 250yds? No. It's still going to be a killshot. But am I going to care about the extra ounces humping them around all day while hiking? Definitely. If your goal is to have the absolute more precise Mk 12 you can possibly build, then maybe the heavier stock is good? But even then, the Mk 12 design is hindering you as you could be running even more accurate non-clone parts. But if the goal is to have a clone rifle and have it be precise enough for any practical use… then for me at least something like the CAR stock fits perfectly for that role. I think we've even had a few .mil guys in this thread over the years state that their real service Mk 12s were only capable of 1.5-2 MOA on good days. So you're ahead of the game. I have no idea if putting a bag under the pistol grip is proper or not. I'm sure it'd get laughed at at a PRS match. But what the hell, I tried it for that situation and it worked fine … so why not? 
The other thing is that it's not like you have to make a permanent decision. The stocks slide on and off in 2 seconds. So if you're going hunting or whatever, throw on the CAR. Out for a day shooting groups at the range, throw on the SOPMOD? Anyway… just my 2 cents. Nice shooting
ETA: Shoot, page ownage: 
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Posted: 9/14/2016 6:51:34 PM EDT
[#27]
i get three rounds kissin at 200 with a MK12
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Posted: 9/14/2016 6:52:16 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 78Staff:
No kidding I jumped over to post the same but am late to the party as usual. Sure, I want a set of no-humps. but let's be real. I don't what's worse the guy selling the Colt CQB 10.3" for $700 or $240 for ARMS rings
Someone will buy them, I'm sure. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 78Staff:
Originally Posted By Samson-Dogg:
There are some #22 high non-lever stops in the EE. Not mine and WAY more than I'd ever consider paying but someone may feel differently. No kidding I jumped over to post the same but am late to the party as usual. Sure, I want a set of no-humps. but let's be real. I don't what's worse the guy selling the Colt CQB 10.3" for $700 or $240 for ARMS rings
Someone will buy them, I'm sure. That was a colt 10.3" barrel only for 700.00. I saw that. I don't know where people come up with this shit. |
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Posted: 9/14/2016 7:19:15 PM EDT
[#29]
I'm a simpleton. When I pump 100+ rounds into a 5" hole at 100yds at a decent speed, I'm happy with the rifle and me. Plus it's fun/challenging fighting through all the heat mirage. I always get compliments at the range for my groupings, just keep me away from pistols where I shoot minute of barn
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Posted: 9/14/2016 8:16:35 PM EDT
[Last Edit: HaveBlue83]
[#30]
im on the other side ofnthe fence on the accuracy topic.
also, Jon Canipe told me that his Holland was a .4moa rifle. EVERY mk12'er should strive to be Sub moa with match mk262 =) |
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Posted: 9/14/2016 8:31:26 PM EDT
[#31]
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TX, USA
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Posted: 9/14/2016 9:52:24 PM EDT
[#32]
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WI, USA
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Posted: 9/14/2016 11:55:43 PM EDT
[Last Edit: JJREA]
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HaveBlue83:
im on the other side ofnthe fence on the accuracy topic. when prone and on a bipod and rear bags, if its not a sub moa group, i am 100% to blame. if its .75moa im not mad. if its .5 im happy. sub .5 3 shot groups and i pack up and go home. if you have a mk12 and BH MK262 77otm isnt giving you 3/4moa, something is up. my handloads of a very Mk262-esque load just shine. now, at 600yds it might not be a 6" rifle. i can hit a 12" plate 5/5 times but i have had no formal military sniper training and my wind dope and other factors are only so good. i dont operate. i just try to hit steel. now davey.......davey can do a 6" group at 600 and be upset with that. LOL. i shoot more often but way less than he does tho. also, Jon Canipe told me that his Holland was a .4moa rifle. EVERY mk12'er should strive to be Sub moa with match mk262 =) You were getting sub MOA with Black HIlls 77's? I don't think too many people can shoot that good and I really didn't think that any factory ammo was up to sub MOA on a regular basis. Now that you're rolling your own, it makes more sense. But still, you''re obviously a really good shooter and have your ducks in a row. I can hover right around MOA with Black Hills Blue 77's. But I think I only ever bought one box. But my Recce don't like the 69's, at all. Anyways... Tinycrumb, you at at least gave me something to think about if I'm using the smaller stocks. And the pics of your gun are great. And your gun is great. I used to think the Mk18 Mod1 (CQBR)'s were the best looking AR build. But now I definitely think the Holland is. Won't hurt your ears as much either, without a can. And FWIW, those weren't from a Mk12 clone. I don't have one. I just have an ADCO built recce upper. But you clone guys are such a big help, I have a tenancy to ask in here my questions. So I apologize for being off topic, gear wise. Whenever you talk about accuracy in other threads, everyone and their brother can shoot MOA or better with their Aimpoint standing on one leg while they're getting a backrub from their lady. It gets annoying. Oh yeah, can't forget they're just using M193 when they get these groups. 
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Posted: 9/15/2016 12:32:33 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JJREA: You were getting sub MOA with Black HIlls 77's? I don't think too many people can shoot that good and I really didn't think that any factory ammo was up to sub MOA on a regular basis. Now that you're rolling your own, it makes more sense. But still, you''re obviously a really good shooter and have your ducks in a row. I can hover right around MOA with Black Hills Blue 77's. But I think I only ever bought one box. But my Recce don't like the 69's, at all. Anyways... Tinycrumb, you at at least gave me something to think about if I'm using the smaller stocks. And the pics of your gun are great. And your gun is great. I used to think the Mk18 Mod1 (CQBR)'s were the best looking AR build. But now I definitely think the Holland is. Won't hurt your ears as much either, without a can. And FWIW, those weren't from a Mk12 clone. I don't have one. I just have an ADCO built recce upper. But you clone guys are such a big help, I have a tenancy to ask in here my questions. So I apologize for being off topic, gear wise. Whenever you talk about accuracy in other threads, everyone and their brother can shoot MOA or better with their Aimpoint standing on one leg while they're getting a backrub from their lady. It gets annoying. Oh yeah, can't forget they're just using M193 when they get these groups.  Homebrew 262 and some 52gr BTHP's to dick around with after work Friday.  |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 9/15/2016 1:00:43 AM EDT
[#35]
Reason I ask is because the .308 DPMS trades are pretty tight between the top edge of the lower and the serials. It's gonna be tricky getting in there with a razor blade but that's how it's done. I'm gonna hafta mask the trades off and drag downward, then peel the masking tape off the serials and pull that roll of JB Weld away so there's not a hard edge to sand down where the tape-line was. Your won't have to use tape if your real meticulous about it. It doesn't take much at all. Like, a little dab will do ya. I've done it for a few friends, took off logos and stupid emblems. Saved the serials. Can even make the safe/semi disappear if desired |
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Posted: 9/15/2016 6:41:28 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By plante74:
Yeesh. Hard to post under Tinycrumb. Anyways this happened. And now I'm looking for a mk4 either 2.5-8 or 3-9 with m2 turrets for the mod 0... <a href="http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/plante74/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsuujmtoso.jpeg.html" target="_blank">http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a567/plante74/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsuujmtoso.jpeg</a> <a href="http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/plante74/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps5babc7kd.jpeg.html" target="_blank">http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a567/plante74/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps5babc7kd.jpeg</a> I believe the mark 4 3-9x36 was only offered with M1 or M3 turrets. I have only ever found two and both had M1 turrets. I'm up to 8-9 different sites and forums that I watch daily and have WTB ads on all I can. I missed one by two months recently. Very hard to find. |
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Posted: 9/15/2016 9:26:40 AM EDT
[Last Edit: plante74]
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Samson-Dogg: I believe the mark 4 3-9x36 was only offered with M1 or M3 turrets. I have only ever found two and both had M1 turrets. I'm up to 8-9 different sites and forums that I watch daily and have WTB ads on all I can. I missed one by two months recently. Very hard to find. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Samson-Dogg: Originally Posted By plante74: Yeesh. Hard to post under Tinycrumb. Anyways this happened. And now I'm looking for a mk4 either 2.5-8 or 3-9 with m2 turrets for the mod 0... <a href="http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/plante74/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsuujmtoso.jpeg.html" target="_blank">http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a567/plante74/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsuujmtoso.jpeg</a> <a href="http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/plante74/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps5babc7kd.jpeg.html" target="_blank">http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a567/plante74/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps5babc7kd.jpeg</a> I believe the mark 4 3-9x36 was only offered with M1 or M3 turrets. I have only ever found two and both had M1 turrets. I'm up to 8-9 different sites and forums that I watch daily and have WTB ads on all I can. I missed one by two months recently. Very hard to find. |
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Posted: 9/15/2016 9:49:21 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By plante74:
Mmhm. I'll probably just snag Something used in either spec magnification. Prefer illum. It's going to be painted anyways. If anyone is letting one go for a decent price let me know. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By plante74:
Originally Posted By Samson-Dogg:
Originally Posted By plante74:
Yeesh. Hard to post under Tinycrumb. Anyways this happened. And now I'm looking for a mk4 either 2.5-8 or 3-9 with m2 turrets for the mod 0... <a href="http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/plante74/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsuujmtoso.jpeg.html" target="_blank">http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a567/plante74/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsuujmtoso.jpeg</a> <a href="http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/plante74/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps5babc7kd.jpeg.html" target="_blank">http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a567/plante74/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps5babc7kd.jpeg</a> I believe the mark 4 3-9x36 was only offered with M1 or M3 turrets. I have only ever found two and both had M1 turrets. I'm up to 8-9 different sites and forums that I watch daily and have WTB ads on all I can. I missed one by two months recently. Very hard to find. If I can't find the 3-9 by the time everything is done I'll probably go with a 3.5-10. I've seen a few of those at very reasonable prices. Unlike the nls rings for 240 and the mk18 rail only for 600 I've seen. Must be something in the water. On another note that guy put more cases up on eBay. He had no clue what they would bring. I get the whole authentic case thing but for 265-275 I think I would just get the foam cut new from mycasebuilder.com and buy a new case. But hey to each his own. There's two more up if anyone has not seen them. |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 9/15/2016 9:57:14 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BSOG1:
i get three rounds kissin at 200 with a MK12 And what about the other two rounds?
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Posted: 9/15/2016 10:56:22 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mrsaturn7085: And what about the other two rounds? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mrsaturn7085: Originally Posted By BSOG1: i get three rounds kissin at 200 with a MK12 And what about the other two rounds? 3 rounds is all you need to confirm a zero |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 9/15/2016 12:44:19 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dangerdan:
3 rounds is all you need to confirm a zero
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dangerdan:
Originally Posted By mrsaturn7085:
Originally Posted By BSOG1:
i get three rounds kissin at 200 with a MK12 And what about the other two rounds? 3 rounds is all you need to confirm a zero
3 rounds kissing at 200? Alrighty then. I was thinking keyholing. |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 9/15/2016 12:46:01 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By secretwheelman:
Shit, those guys are sub 1/4 MOA w/ 855.
Homebrew 262 and some 52gr BTHP's to dick around with after work Friday. <a href="https://flic.kr/p/M4M247" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8175/29578787632_ed576112f8_o.jpg</a> Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By secretwheelman:
Originally Posted By JJREA:
You were getting sub MOA with Black HIlls 77's? I don't think too many people can shoot that good and I really didn't think that any factory ammo was up to sub MOA on a regular basis. Now that you're rolling your own, it makes more sense. But still, you''re obviously a really good shooter and have your ducks in a row. I can hover right around MOA with Black Hills Blue 77's. But I think I only ever bought one box. But my Recce don't like the 69's, at all. Anyways... Tinycrumb, you at at least gave me something to think about if I'm using the smaller stocks. And the pics of your gun are great. And your gun is great. I used to think the Mk18 Mod1 (CQBR)'s were the best looking AR build. But now I definitely think the Holland is. Won't hurt your ears as much either, without a can. And FWIW, those weren't from a Mk12 clone. I don't have one. I just have an ADCO built recce upper. But you clone guys are such a big help, I have a tenancy to ask in here my questions. So I apologize for being off topic, gear wise. Whenever you talk about accuracy in other threads, everyone and their brother can shoot MOA or better with their Aimpoint standing on one leg while they're getting a backrub from their lady. It gets annoying. Oh yeah, can't forget they're just using M193 when they get these groups.
Homebrew 262 and some 52gr BTHP's to dick around with after work Friday. <a href="https://flic.kr/p/M4M247" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8175/29578787632_ed576112f8_o.jpg</a> I've yet to have an AR that didn't seem to shoot the black hills 52 really well. But I've never shot for groups with them past 100. Hornady really knows how to make a 52 grain bullet. |
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Posted: 9/15/2016 1:00:41 PM EDT
[#43]
All I shoot is pov grade m193. I'm focusing on stacking it deep, then loading up on the specialty stuff.
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WI, USA
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Posted: 9/15/2016 2:23:08 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SDMF_Rebel:
All I shoot is pov grade m193. I'm focusing on stacking it deep, then loading up on the specialty stuff. That's a good way to go too. I mostly buy M193 of some flavor. With bits of different stuff on the side. |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 9/15/2016 2:31:20 PM EDT
[#45]
So I'm on the path of building a mod1.
After eye banging Tiny's modH i love the look of the 16" barrel. Does anyone know of any Mod1's with 16" barrels? I know its not clone correct but the lesser 2 inches just looks so good. |
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Posted: 9/15/2016 2:37:57 PM EDT
[#46]
Someone posted a picture of a Mod 1/H hybrid recently. I believe it had an ACE stock, FF RAS and 16" barrel with collar and brake. I don't know where it is though. Maybe somewhere it here.
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Posted: 9/15/2016 2:45:56 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SDMF_Rebel: All I shoot is pov grade m193. I'm focusing on stacking it deep, then loading up on the specialty stuff. For me, reloading is an excuse to drink and tell people I'm too busy to do whatever bullshit they come up with. |
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Posted: 9/15/2016 2:47:42 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JJREA: I've yet to have an AR that didn't seem to shoot the black hills 52 really well. But I've never shot for groups with them past 100. Hornady really knows how to make a 52 grain bullet. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JJREA: Originally Posted By secretwheelman: Shit, those guys are sub 1/4 MOA w/ 855. Homebrew 262 and some 52gr BTHP's to dick around with after work Friday. <a href="https://flic.kr/p/M4M247" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8175/29578787632_ed576112f8_o.jpg</a> I've yet to have an AR that didn't seem to shoot the black hills 52 really well. But I've never shot for groups with them past 100. Hornady really knows how to make a 52 grain bullet. |
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Posted: 9/15/2016 4:20:30 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Chincy: So I'm on the path of building a mod1. After eye banging Tiny's modH i love the look of the 16" barrel. Does anyone know of any Mod1's with 16" barrels? I know its not clone correct but the lesser 2 inches just looks so good. so you want a SEAL RECCE then. thats a 16" mod 1 with a urx 3.1 or kac rail. |
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Posted: 9/15/2016 4:35:41 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HaveBlue83:
so you want a SEAL RECCE then. thats a 16" mod 1 with a urx 3.1 or kac rail. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HaveBlue83:
Originally Posted By Chincy:
So I'm on the path of building a mod1. After eye banging Tiny's modH i love the look of the 16" barrel. Does anyone know of any Mod1's with 16" barrels? I know its not clone correct but the lesser 2 inches just looks so good. so you want a SEAL RECCE then. thats a 16" mod 1 with a urx 3.1 or kac rail. Rep the Recce thread is where you need to head on over to, but I think that you're looking for something like this, though perhaps a different scope. It's basically a 16" Mod1  " />
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