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Posted: 3/11/2006 8:27:34 PM EDT
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And give it a TGT crown . How detramental could this be? If I vice it into a Drill press so it could not move. And then just took off the top a bit to counter sink it for a nice TGT crown and refinished it? |
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The first reason I could think of is the same as how come I don't use a hammer to drive in screws. It might work, but it's not the appropriate tool for the job. Now, if you have a drill press and you're sure that you can align everything properly, then you could order Brownell's parts # 080-962-000, 080-586-500 and 080-943-023 and do the job right. It costs a little more, but it's worth doing. If your barrel is chrome-lined, be really careful on your cutting because the chamfer tool will like to chatter on the chrome, and that tends to be sucktacular. I really recommend the muzzle pilot so you get the same chamfer all the way around the barrel - otherwise your bullets will be exiting the bore in funny directions. Cheers, kk7sm |
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There is a guy on www.gunboards.com that has a 11 degree Crowning tool with 4 or 5 pilots for less than $100. You'll have to search for it but it's listed on the Trader forum Jason |
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Yes Im sure eveyone knows that a lathe is used to cut a crown. However for the do it your selfers there is bound to be a way to do it with a press and the proper bit. Im not talking about a true recessed TGT crown just something a little better than stock for under $10. I cant be the first to come up with this someone has to have tried this at some point. 
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Let me preface to say I have used hammers to drive screws -- I learned how, and 'when', from a real carpenter ! I have a lathe, and understand the procedure. I am not a gunsmith, or even a machinist. I used a drill bit for this once. It was a 6" S&W revolver, with a very slight bulge just shy of the front sight. I made a fixture, reamed the bbl. about .1" , and then reversed the bit and lapped the crown with the shank. I think I just used valve grinding compound. Brownell's Oxpho-blue to finish. This old revolver is incredibly accurate, and looks like a .45 from the front! 
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Oh, I see what you want. Sure, thousands have done it before with a large ball-bearing (or other concentric taper) and grinding compound. It works well, and is the old standby for eliminating those inevitible muzzle-end 'dings'. ETA: The drill bit is not as suitable for this as the 'centerdrill'. You can chuck a centerdrill into your drill press and get better results, but a 'real' gunsmith will probably end up finishing the job.  |
How do you chuck the bearing into the drill press? seriously ka |
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A better crown can make a so so barrel a great barrel,a not so good crown can make a ok barrel a crummy barrel . Do you feel lucky? I have had great results with the ball bearing on an old beat up Win 94 in .32win sp. Old lever guns are usually ruined by cleaning from the front end and beating up the crown. Actually I used the ball from an old mouse and cut the rubber off it. I just used some polishing compound on the ball and went at it with my fingers. I keep looking at it with a strong glass and a good light and kept at it untill I had a nice clean sharp edge all around . I have heard of the C&R guys going at a crown with a drill bit and actually counterboreing the barrel a half to a full inch. This is usually a last ditch effort to get a $75 gun to shoot a bit better,sometimes it helps a whole lot but with this type of gun that doesn't shoot worth a sh** to begin with there isn't much to be lost. Is there something wrong with your barrel or crown to begin with? I can't see a target crown makeing a regular crome lined barrel into some kind of super tackdriver? Let us know how this comes out if you decide to mess with it,and please shoot some carefull before and after groups with a couple different ammo types. Also goes without saying that we are going to need pictures!! Isn't it clever how I try to talk you out of messing with it and then demand the results? |
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