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2/12/2010 11:30:35 PM EDT
Im in the process of my first build. Got a used Sabre Darrell of EE and a Larue Gas block and a PWS FSC556, the colors on all 3 are off. Im thinking about getting the barrel and gas block parkerized to darken them to get everything to match. Is there a cheap way to do it myself? Or just send it to ADCO and have them do it for $50? Should I send them the FH as well?  Any other companies that offer good parkerizing at a good price?

Im not sure if I suck at search function. Is there anyway to do a search for more than 30 days in the past?
2/13/2010 1:39:30 AM EDT
[#1]
I have been using Texas Armament for 10 plus years for parkerizing of steel parts..........slides...barrels gasblocks etc..........there work is super, reasonably priced with decent turnaround..............
2/13/2010 3:31:29 AM EDT
[#2]
Here's a link for DIY.
http://www.projectguns.com/parkerizing.html






 
 
 
2/13/2010 5:42:29 AM EDT
[#3]
I sent my Colt A2 barrel to ADCO to repark, looks brand new now,


2/13/2010 5:48:09 AM EDT
[#4]
Good info. Need to have my older Armalite SPR done. Looks like a IDF issue rifle
2/13/2010 5:53:25 AM EDT
[#5]
Stainless steel can not be parkerized. I am guessing but the LaRue gas block may be stainless.
2/13/2010 6:15:01 AM EDT
[#6]
There are some vids on you tube for home park jobs
2/13/2010 6:29:16 AM EDT
[#7]
Park is going to be variable due to solution mix and even differences in the steels. Only way to get what you want is to "paint" it ove the park.
2/13/2010 6:50:01 AM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:

I have been using Texas Armament for 10 plus years for parkerizing of steel parts..........slides...barrels gasblocks etc..........there work is super, reasonably priced with decent turnaround...


I can remember hearing some good things about Texas Armament a number of years ago.  

No first-hand experience with them though.

2/13/2010 7:22:11 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Park is going to be variable due to solution mix and even differences in the steels. Only way to get what you want is to "paint" it ove the park.


He's exactly right.

I have done my own park for a few years now. Good prep is the key. A bead blaster will remove old finish and leave a nice even satin texture for the new park to form on. Brownell's Park, once used well and broken in some, works terrific. But different alloys of steels DO come out as different shades of gray even if you were to dunk them in at the same time. Not a huge difference. But enough to see it.

I have learned to love Norrel's Moly Resin. Great stuff. Easy to use. Works great over park and is a very durable finish. Much more so than Duracoat paint IMO.

And SS will not park. Just blast it and apply a couple light coats of moly resin and bake it on.

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