AR Sponsor
Posted: 3/5/2012 6:48:06 AM EDT
|
Hello everyone, I am not new to shooting but I am new to the art of mounting a rifle scope properly. I've always paid the $20 at my local shop to get my scopes mounted or the rifle I've purchased has already had it on it and mounted / sighted properly. So I come to you guys with my hat in my hand.
I have read so much on the internet that my brain is numb. I'm not dumb or anything and I pretty much can gather from a lot of reading what the proper steps are, however, I just want to ask you guys your opinions. I've read anywhere from hang a weight from a string and align your vertical crosshairs with it, to buy the level-level-level deal, to buy this and that. I'd prefer to do it the least cost effective way... The setup I'll be running is this: S&W M&P 15OR Warne RAMP 30MM mount Primary Arms Micro Dot on the 45 Primary Arms 4-16 Scope Any help is greatly appreciated. |
|
I have never used a level when mounting my scope. I have just use a door jam to line up my crosshairs. True the level will tell u if the scope is level to the gun but it may not look level to you. Oddly enough many people hold a gun slightly different by a few degrees and then your cross hairs dont look level.
My advice mount it on there and get it set up for you. Takes a little playing around but It has worked for me... That my .02 |
|
Quoted:
I have never used a level when mounting my scope. I have just use a door jam to line up my crosshairs. True the level will tell u if the scope is level to the gun but it may not look level to you. Oddly enough many people hold a gun slightly different by a few degrees and then your cross hairs dont look level. My advice mount it on there and get it set up for you. Takes a little playing around but It has worked for me... That my .02 I use this method for my hunting rifles, and rifles I will be shooting standing, kneeling, or prone, but on my target guns, that I shoot from rests and pods, I level them... |
|
I'm not familiar with all your gear, but here goes:
Set your rifle in something solid that can hold it still, even when you tinker with it a little. Some sort of gun vise or sandbags or a gun rest. Place a level (I have a bullet level and a Craftsman pocket level I use) on a surface of the gun that should be horizontal, like the picatinny rail. Go out in front of the rifle and either hang an easily visible string with a plumb bob or set up another level (make sure your two levels agree). Now go back to the rifle and start adjusting the scope. Level the crosshair, make sure the rifle didn't move, check your eye relief, repeat steps until everything is right. Now start slowly tightening the rings, alternating side to side because sometimes rings can rotate the scope if tightened unevenly. Once tight, recheck everything. The further away you can get the string or level, the better, so you have better focus on it. Lots of scopes have set 100 yard parallax and the crosshair may not focus well at 15 or 20 yards. That's how I've done it. One of the hardest things for me, especially with bolt guns, is how to level the rifle. I usually try to find either a flat or go across two rails somewhere. On the AR, don't be afraid to separate the upper and lower and level the bottom of the upper receiver. That way your scope can ge in the rings and you don't have to squeeze under it to get to the rail. You can also use a rubber band to strap the level to the receiver, makes rechecking fast and easy. When you're actually trying to level the crosshairs, sometimes I've found it easier to leave a small gap between the crosshair and the level/string. If you try to overlap them, the crosshair obscures the edge and you can't tell if you're twisted a little. |
|
I use the small bubble levels on as many flat spots on the gun I can find (even laying the gun sideways on the bag or vise for more flat spots if need be) and thick black string on a weight hanging from a door knob across the room.
I prefer doing this over laying a bubble level on the scope turret because the turret can be crooked sometimes. The plumb bob, in combination with the bubble levels on the gun, aligns your scope reticle and bore axis to the horizon of the earth. Then teeny tiny turns with the allen wrench so the gaps on the scope rings stay even as it draws down on the scope, always checking the reticle alignment as you go. As it begins to tighten, I will finish it off with a torque driver set to the torque specs for ring screws (usually about 20 - 25 inch-lbs). I also use blue locktite on my base screws, but never my ring screws. |
AR Sponsor
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.