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Posted: 10/20/2008 4:13:21 PM EDT
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Not to pile on the guy, but I've been thinking about how to avoid this: http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=400543 I've seen illustrated the vice-grip method to install this pin. On the drive home from work this evening I was thinking about this. What would be wrong with using a small c-clamp to press in the trigger guard pin? Also, are there any other pins that are best installed by pressing them in instead of the punch/hammer method? I've got a build coming up next week, if my parts kit comes in, and I don't want to screw it up. |
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Go to the link below: www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782 Proceed to step #4: 4. Trigger guard. This is pretty straight forward... insert in the trigger guard with single hole side in the receiver. Then align the roll pin hole up with the hole in the "ears" of the receiver. BE VERY CAREFUL HERE. You must support the "ears" on the bottom side if you tap the roll pin in place. If you dont support the bottom ear, you could break it off when tapping the pin in place. Also, some roll pins or trigger guards are out of spec. If it takes what you think is too much force, or starts to deform your roll pin, STOP. Also - see below for an alternative method of installing this pin by squeezing the pin in place. |
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I use a pair of small Craftsman "RoboGrip" pliers that I ground smooth (no more "teeth") for every pin. Its easy and controllable. You dont "have" to grind them smooth but I use them for a lot of other gunsmithing and it does help if you become a clutz by keeping scratches to a minimum. The C clamp would work fine but be tedious to me anyway. |
| I use a C-clamp with a penny glued to one side of the jaw and a piece of leather glued to the other. I drilled a small hole in the penny the same size as the rollpin to help hold it in place while it gets started. The leather side keeps the clamp stable and prevents scratches. Never had a problem with it, no broken ears, and all the parts are cheap. |
I don't understand how anyone has a problem with the trigger guard roll pin. As long as you do it right, it's totally foolproof. I did all of mine with a wood block, and a finishing hammer. Takes all of 30 seconds. No grinding down pliers, or tape, or anything, and I'm not very mechanically inclined. Lubing the pin helps.
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Thats what i did, and it seems bad arss.
does the magpul enhnaced trigger guard come with a spiral pin? |
| If you get the MIAD grip with the incorpertad enhanced trigger guard you dont even use a pin at all. The guard slides between the two ears and just stays there. No pin at all. You connect it with one allen wrench screw at the front of the trigger guard and that is it. |
True. I thought about that, and was thinking that by putting the "screw" side of the c-clamp against the receiver, and the "clamp" side against the pin, the wobble would be minimized. However, after thinking about it, maybe the wobble would still be a problem. Maybe I'll just use the vice-grip method. Thanks for the input, everyone. That's why I came here. |
That's why I hot glued the penny on that side and tapped the shallow starter hole. No wobble and it helps hold the pin in place. |
| +1 on the spiral pins, they're so much easier to drive. I get them from Armalite, installed and removed several pins with no problems. Doesn't hurt to have the correctly sized pin punches with the nib on the end to keep them in place. I use a pine block to support the ears, it has a hole drilled through it when removing the pins so I can drive them straight out while supporting the trigger guard ears. |
Any chance of you posting a pic of this modified c-clamp? |
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