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4/3/2007 1:02:59 PM EDT
I am in the process of building my first AR. I have a tendency to research things to death then do it right once the first time. I have a few questions.

1. Crush washers - does it matter which way they go on? Concave or convex side toward flash hider? Or does not matter?

2. I am installing a Quad Rail with a YHM forearm end cap. I was talking to a tech at RRA and he mentioned that sometimes these will contact the barrel effectively reducing the free-float effect especially when slung tight. Who could machine the opening of the end cap where the barrel goes through, 1/16 to 1/8" more open? (so the barrel can't contact the end cap) It almost appears there is not that much material that could be removed. Had anyone had this problem? The barrel measures ~0.900 and Brownells stocks the one with an advertised opening of 1 1/16". Sounds like there should be plenty of room. Any experience with it? Main point is, I don't want to take it apart once it's together.

Thanks



4/3/2007 2:03:59 PM EDT
[#1]
#2 take it to any machine shop and have them drill press the center hole open more you will need to reblack it when they finish.

I don't know the answer to #1 I use lock washers.
4/3/2007 7:50:15 PM EDT
[#2]
It is a Vortex and I was reading in another thread that you don't need any washer at all and it will self tighten.
Thoughts?
4/3/2007 8:16:25 PM EDT
[#3]
I always did convex side toward the muzzle. this way...

-------^-- (=


Barrel------- Front sight ^ crush washer ( flash suppressor =


I was a 45B (small arms artillery repairman) in the Army and did about a million m-16s this way and never had any problems. Those were A2 breaks though. I have never used the vortex kind so that may be different.
4/4/2007 3:32:45 AM EDT
[#4]
Vortex does not require a washer. It does not need to be timed and is self tightening, so the need for a crush/split/lock washer is not necessary.
4/6/2007 4:38:30 PM EDT
[#5]
Thanks for the input guys!

I just rec'd the rest of my parts today, so the fun begins again!
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