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Posted: 12/5/2013 7:44:56 PM EDT
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I'm about to pull the trigger on my first AR and would love to get some feedback from you guys. I think a RECCE style rifle will be a good fit for what I want. Something that will be accurate (to about 500 yds), and something durable in case of SHTF. Here are the components I'm looking at. Parallax Tactical is right down the street from me and I've heard good reviews about them and their stuff so I plan to buy everything except for the receivers there. Please let me know what you guys think. Let me know if you think I should swap out something instead of these parts.
Noveske Chainsaw Upper Noveske Chainsaw Lower Black Hole Weaponry 16” Barrel (1:8 Twist, Mid, Melonite) Parallax Tactical Gen2 13” Free Float Super Slim Rail Parallax Tactical low pro gas block Parallax Tactical gas tube Parallax Tactical BCG Parallax Tactical Melonite Paracomp ALG Defense Quality Mil-Spec Trigger Rock River Arms LPK Magpul MOE Grip Magpul UBR Stock |
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Thanks for the feedback. I'm a pretty big guy at 6'4" 250lbs I figure the weight difference of the UBR will be pretty minimal. I do have another lighter stock on my Rem 870 I could always swap out if it is too heavy.
As far as the LPK goes whats the difference between the Stag and RRA LPKs? I would also love to get a Geissele trigger but after feeling the difference between a standard milspec trigger, the ALG and a geissele I decided to go with the ALG. Mostly because the pull felt very smooth compared to the standard milspec and the price was MUCH better than the geissele. |
| I'd get a STR or SOPMOD(LMT or Bravo) over a UBR for a recce build, better cheek weld for magnified optics(if you're going that route) and they're both considerably less expensive. If you want weight in the stock area for balance, just add batteries to the storage tubes. UBR is pretty cool looking though. |
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I'd to with a geissele ssa trigger for sure. Worth the extra money.
Can't comment on the parralax gear. I wouldn't put too much concern in having a noveske receiver set unless you just really like the rollmark or something. Additionally, I too would ditch the ubr and get a b5 sopmod or magpul acs. What optic are you looking to use? |
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Quoted:
Thanks for the feedback. I'm a pretty big guy at 6'4" 250lbs I figure the weight difference of the UBR will be pretty minimal. I do have another lighter stock on my Rem 870 I could always swap out if it is too heavy. As far as the LPK goes whats the difference between the Stag and RRA LPKs? I would also love to get a Geissele trigger but after feeling the difference between a standard milspec trigger, the ALG and a geissele I decided to go with the ALG. Mostly because the pull felt very smooth compared to the standard milspec and the price was MUCH better than the geissele. Just personal preference on the LPK. I like Stag and Armalite. I don't care how big and strong you are the UBR gets heavy. I'd go with the B5 SOPMOD and look into the Vltor A5 buffer system if you require extra LOP. I've owned a UBR. It looks cool but that's about it. If you haven't bought your lower and upper, I'd go with a Mega forged set. Best uppers and lowers, IMO. The money you would save on not going with the UBR, you could put towards a SSA-E (or SSA). If you're going with a magnified optic(1-4x/1-6x) you will really appreciate a good 2-stage trigger. Just my thoughts on the subject. |
| I have a ubr on my rifle and I don't even notice the weight especially when the rifle is shouldered. My support arm fatigues after a while of extended shooting but even in a low ready the extra weight causes me no issue. In fact it actually make my front end feel a little lighter and much more stable shooting off hand. I do wish my support arm would last longer but I'm going with a shorter barrel and handguard to accomplish it. |
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I'd get a STR or SOPMOD(LMT or Bravo) over a UBR for a recce build, better cheek weld for magnified optics(if you're going that route) and they're both considerably less expensive. If you want weight in the stock area for balance, just add batteries to the storage tubes. UBR is pretty cool looking though. I'm gonna have to disagree with you on the "better cheek weld" the UBR is the one of very few if not the only collapsible stock with constant cheek weld, if you run any traditional collapsible stock extended out very far your placement is on the buffer tube, or on the overlap, or you've had to move back to the stock weld and change your placement. I have 2 UBR's they are the early release that came with the two optional cheek weld plates, and I love them. They do have some additional weight I don't disagree but it counters a 16"-18" stainless match barrel very well in my opinion. |
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Just personal preference on the LPK. I like Stag and Armalite. I don't care how big and strong you are the UBR gets heavy. I'd go with the B5 SOPMOD and look into the Vltor A5 buffer system if you require extra LOP. I've owned a UBR. It looks cool but that's about it. If you haven't bought your lower and upper, I'd go with a Mega forged set. Best uppers and lowers, IMO. The money you would save on not going with the UBR, you could put towards a SSA-E (or SSA). If you're going with a magnified optic(1-4x/1-6x) you will really appreciate a good 2-stage trigger. Just my thoughts on the subject. Quoted:
Quoted:
Thanks for the feedback. I'm a pretty big guy at 6'4" 250lbs I figure the weight difference of the UBR will be pretty minimal. I do have another lighter stock on my Rem 870 I could always swap out if it is too heavy. As far as the LPK goes whats the difference between the Stag and RRA LPKs? I would also love to get a Geissele trigger but after feeling the difference between a standard milspec trigger, the ALG and a geissele I decided to go with the ALG. Mostly because the pull felt very smooth compared to the standard milspec and the price was MUCH better than the geissele. Just personal preference on the LPK. I like Stag and Armalite. I don't care how big and strong you are the UBR gets heavy. I'd go with the B5 SOPMOD and look into the Vltor A5 buffer system if you require extra LOP. I've owned a UBR. It looks cool but that's about it. If you haven't bought your lower and upper, I'd go with a Mega forged set. Best uppers and lowers, IMO. The money you would save on not going with the UBR, you could put towards a SSA-E (or SSA). If you're going with a magnified optic(1-4x/1-6x) you will really appreciate a good 2-stage trigger. Just my thoughts on the subject. I agree |
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Quoted:
Thanks for the feedback. I'm a pretty big guy at 6'4" 250lbs I figure the weight difference of the UBR will be pretty minimal. I do have another lighter stock on my Rem 870 I could always swap out if it is too heavy. As far as the LPK goes whats the difference between the Stag and RRA LPKs? I would also love to get a Geissele trigger but after feeling the difference between a standard milspec trigger, the ALG and a geissele I decided to go with the ALG. Mostly because the pull felt very smooth compared to the standard milspec and the price was MUCH better than the geissele. I'm 6'2", 250lb amateur body builder myself, so I'm quite large and very strong. However, my Recce weighs in around 11 pounds fully loaded with a 30 round mag, 3x9x40 Burris scope, Viking Tac sling, and 12" rail... It gets damned heavy rather quickly humping that bitch in the woods slung across my back, carrying it in hand for 15-20 minutes, FORGETABOUTIT! If it's just going to be a range queen, shooting prone, then go for it. As a SHTF rifle, I'm going with my 14.7" mid-length. Just something for you to think about as I had the same thought process as you when I converted my one and only AR-15, an M4 into a Recce. I quickly realized I needed another AR for home defense/shtf duty and built one for that purpose. YMMV... |
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500 yards......... ? IMHO the one part you can't tinker with is the barrel. I'd communicate with some of the barrel manufacturers (not the dealers or suppliers) and let them know what your trying to accomplish. Get their suggestions. Most any quality brand 16" barrel is more than capable of laying down good groups at 500 yards, especially when using good ammo an a free floated barrel. PSA's hammer forged, FN made barrels, DD, BCM, Spikes, Colt, etc... all come to mind. |
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Saluki, just talk to the guys at Parallax, they have a wealth of information. I just got one of their pre-built 5.56 upper receivers and it's very well put together. Still need sights and buttstock before I can fire it, but form/fit are good. I've used a couple of their different generations of rails. My only gripe with the slim one (which will hold true for any slim rail I guess) is the heat transfer from the barrel to the rail and thus into your hand. After a friend put a hundred or two-hundred rounds or so through a rifle with one installed, you had to hold the forend with a gloved hand. The rail was black and we were in the Arizona desert with 80F temps and clear skies so that added to the latent heat, but another rifle with a wider free float rail was not quite as hot.
Parallax's prices for transfer/DROS is like $35 or $40. Be advised, they are required to charge tax now even if you order from out of state company (I think this is a state requirement, not a Parallax thing). I got a lower from an out of state company and in addition to the DROS, they charged tax. I wanted it regardless, so $78 later I had the process finished; but it basically doubled the cost of the blemm'd lower. Gotta just pick it up this weekend. I was over at the newly re-opened SoCal Gun Shop on Convoy St. in Kearney Mesa and I think I heard they were doing DROS for $25, which is the DROS base price. They don't charge any labor for the transfer. You might give them a holler about having them transferring your lower. Of course there's several shops up your way that can also do the transfer including Parallax. |
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Yeah, I was at Parallax talking to those guys. Great customer service even though they knew I wasn't buying anything at that time. I'll go with one of their uppers if I can't get my hands on a Noveske chainsaw upper and lower. I know I don't need a Noveske upper and matched lower but I just love the look and the reputation of quality with Noveske parts.
I appreciate all the info from you guys....its why I love this forum! |
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I picked up a UBR for the same thing and after putting it on the rifle it was noticeably heavy. I went with an ACS-L just for the extra LOP. I'm 6'-8" and that extra weight was surprisingly noticeable. Go with the lighter stock, the balance is good and it's much easier to carry around.
Quoted:
Thanks for the feedback. I'm a pretty big guy at 6'4" 250lbs I figure the weight difference of the UBR will be pretty minimal. I do have another lighter stock on my Rem 870 I could always swap out if it is too heavy. As far as the LPK goes whats the difference between the Stag and RRA LPKs? I would also love to get a Geissele trigger but after feeling the difference between a standard milspec trigger, the ALG and a geissele I decided to go with the ALG. Mostly because the pull felt very smooth compared to the standard milspec and the price was MUCH better than the geissele. |
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Here's what I ended up getting...I'll post pics when I end up putting it all together on the 26th.
JD Machine Lower Mil-spec Upper (Ares Armor I believe) Black Hole Weaponry 16" Recce Profile, Melonite, 1/8 Polygonal Rifiling, 416 Stainless Steel, Carbine, 5.56mm, M4 Feed Ramps Parallax Tactical Gen2 13” Free Float Super Slim Rail Parallax Tactical low pro gas block Parallax Tactical gas tube Parallax Tactical BCG Parallax Tactical Melonite Paracomp ALG Defense Quality Mil-Spec Trigger Rock River Arms LPK Magpul MOE Grip Magpul UBR Stock Vortex Viper PST 2.5-10x44 MOA optic Warne Ramp mount Magpul backup flip up sights |
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Quoted:
Most any quality brand 16" barrel is more than capable of laying down good groups at 500 yards, especially when using good ammo an a free floated barrel. PSA's hammer forged, FN made barrels, DD, BCM, Spikes, Colt, etc... all come to mind. Quoted:
Quoted:
500 yards......... ? IMHO the one part you can't tinker with is the barrel. I'd communicate with some of the barrel manufacturers (not the dealers or suppliers) and let them know what your trying to accomplish. Get their suggestions. Most any quality brand 16" barrel is more than capable of laying down good groups at 500 yards, especially when using good ammo an a free floated barrel. PSA's hammer forged, FN made barrels, DD, BCM, Spikes, Colt, etc... all come to mind. You don't need a free-floated barrel to be accurate at 500 yards. The barrel is what makes it a good "recce"-style AR. Spend your money there. Forged or not, billet or not, the type of upper/lower does not make a difference as long as it is spec. A 'good' trigger is helpful. The rest is fluff, and just get what you want. I use a LaRue RAT and it is my fave stock next to a good ol' Colt N1. The SOPMOD is fine, not my cup of tea, and when I was active duty it was the first thing I replaced. |
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