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Posted: 10/30/2005 2:14:41 PM EDT
| Which would you choose: the surefire m73 or the MI or the YHM? Im looking at lowest price and weigth. Are these all basically the same in those catagories? Thx |
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I would choose the MI. The YHM "feels like holding an elephant dick" (with the panels in place) according to my roommate who owns one. I just read the other day here about the SF screws coming out and the RAS going TU as a result. The MI is the same in principle as the YHM, however, the maching more closely matches that of my KAC RAS. It is a little bigger than the SF, but I like it. |
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I too would choose the MI. They line up with the top of the receiver right. The Surefire does not MI's rails are very closely toleranced to the correct spec's. They have a done a very nice job with the machining and finish. They have a full width rail, unlike the YHM with a groove cut out of the middle of the rails. Some VFG's ( like my SOG graphite) lock into the middle of the rail and don't firt well on he YHM The MI rails price is very competitive if not cheaper than the other. The only draw back I can find is that they are a little heavier than YHM or Surefire |
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Ok, that's funny I was just looking at getting some forend rails a minutes ago. All my friends like freefloat but for some reason I think I'd like the 2 piece better. Probably because it gives me that home feeling. Well, anyways, all Picatinny have the little groove in the middle mainly for weight reduction. the only two I've found so far that's actually milspec(or close to it) is the MI and the Knight's Armament. Knight's Armament is actually the same ones use by the Army, that's why I'm so use to them. At the same time, Knight's Armament rails cost $200 more than the MI. Personally i don't know the why such a difference in pricing so if there's anyone out there that does know why, please send me an email about it or something. Anyways, to get back on topic, out of the three you listed, I'd go with the MI. Though if I had the money, I'd much rather go for the Knight's Armament's $340 vs. the MI $140. I might not know the difference but I know I "you get what you paid for" -Jake |
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This is an easy one. The MI rail beats the others hands down. Fit and finish is better and their rails follow the M1913 spec. C4 www.GRTactical.com |
| a carbine, and i'm mainly building mine for urban warfare(CQC) unlike everyone else who's trying to build a sniper rifle out of an assault rifle. I'm actually gonna built mine to assault, not that it'll ever actually gonna happen. just to say I can if I needed to. |
| Like some have stated, I have the YHM 2 piece on a 16" HBAR patrol rifle. I like the YHM alot and would not part with them. I have been looking at the MI #17 for my SBR build. All the feedback on them has been A+ and the price is right in my budget. I have also been looking at the new MI extended carbine RAS. Thirty or so bucks more than the standard MI carbine RAS but may be worth it. |
Could you please post a link to the thread about the Surefire screws coming out. I couldn't find it and would be interested to read it. Thanks. 
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I just fitted an MI free-float (the new one) to my 16" M4gery. The finish is good, I could really find nothing wrong with it (and I'm a nit-picker!). I wondered about how firm it would be, would it twist etc. But I don't think I could twist it if I wanted to. With Magpul covers installed it is a bit wider than the standard M4 grips, but I really don't see how you can avoid that if you are going to have the top line up with the upper, and use a circular cross-section for the tube on which the rails are built. Not ever having handled an elephant's dick I don't feel qualified to comment on any similarity there. Now I have to save up some money for a few toys to hang off it  Edit: just wanted to add that I ended up doing things "the hard way" - I was not enthusiastic about taking a Dremel to the delta ring, so I removed the barrel then having read the horrors of what can happen when trying to remove the FSB, plucked up courage and gave the (narrow) end of each of the pins a heart whack, and they both came loose. The held the FSB in the vice and twisted ... didn't want to move, so put a wrench on the flash hider and turned, and the FSB came loose, and with some work and lubrication came off easily. Remove the flash hider, and the barrel nut, complete with delta ring comes right off - remove the circlip holding the delta ring/spring. After reassembly, I noticed that I had managed to mark the edges of the FSB where I held it in the vice. Being the nit-picker that I am, I was not pleased, and began wondering what the FSB is actually coated with. Eventually, I decided that almost anything would look better than the bright exposed steel, so applied a bit of gun blue to try to quieten it down. Guess what? its a perfect match. After a coat of CLP, I can't find where the marks were. So next time you have scratches on your FSB, try applying a little gun blue! |
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