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Posted: 7/5/2007 8:17:48 AM EDT
| Ok, here is what I have. I have a 24”, heavy, non-chromed, 1x12 twist barrel that I bought from Quality Parts years ago. This is what I want to do. I plan on getting AR15barrels to cut it back to either 20” or 18” and put a target crown on it. I also want to free float it with a simple tube. Now, the front sights. I can't make up my mind (Like the barrel length) if I want to try and cut the front site down or put a gas block on it. My question on the gas block is, do they use the original holes that are in the barrel or do they just clamp on? Do they use the original gas tube and pin? I've been looking at gas blocks but like a Motor Manual, they assume you already know that. The barrel steps down in 5 places but the gas block/front sight area looks to be .750. This barrel will be mounted to a scoped CMMG flat top upper and used to punch paper with lighter weight bullets. Unless a varmint pokes their head up. I'll probably take a pot shot at them. Kinda thinking of the YHM tube, but I've seen a lot back and forth arguments about them. Any advice from the gang would be appreciated. |
| Well I decided to cut the front sight down. After some cutting and grinding plus a little paint, this thing came out half way decent. I figured with my metal skills I would mess it up. So the gas block question is out of the way. So what about a free float tube? Can I use my regular barrel wrench to put them on? Or do I have to buy a specific wrench for the tube? I don't need a fancy railed tube. Just a plain Jane one. Once again, any help would be appreciated. |
| There is no generic answer to your question. Some floating handguards can use the standard barrel nut wrench. These are usually the 2-piece type. Most of the 1-piece tubes require either a strap wrench or a special wrench supplied by the mfgr of the tube. Once you select the tube you like best, contact the mfgr and ask them what tool is required for installation. |
| Not sure I like that. I don't see how you have the room to put the gas tube back in the gas block. Unless you leave the block off. But it seems to me, with my limited ability, it would be a pain to pin the block back on and line the gas tube up with that thing in the way. Plus, how do you tell 35ft/lb with a strap wrench? |
EDIT: Okay, I see the one you are talking about on their website: It would require a strap wrench to tighten. It's a simple one piece tube. |
| I spotted another one of these tubes on the Model 1 Sales sight. Looks like the YHM one, no mention of a barrel nut. I kinda like the looks of that black aluminum knurled tube. Not really that keen on the carbon fiber look or the ones with the holes or rails on them. Looks like I might be stuck trying to install one of these style one piece tubes. I've been doing some searching and haven't stumbled on to anything that looks like this and uses the barrel/jam nut assembly. Just not sure how you would torque this thing down correctly. |
Outside of a strap wrench, which for me doesn't indicate well how much torque you are exerting, you can use this by DPMS:  www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=5595&title=DPMS+AR-15+FREE+FLOAT+TUBE+WRENCH PK Firearms has this two piece tube, you can just make out the seam on the left side that separates the two pieces:  Attach the barrel nut with a standard barrel nut wrench then screw on the rest of the tube. I've used it and it's fairly strong, but it is also light enough to ring light a bell when you charge/release the bolt. www.pkfirearms.com/store/get_items.aspx?type=0&term=27 |
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