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Posted: 9/20/2011 3:14:43 PM EDT
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OK so I have a BCM lower and I"m trying to get the buffer tube extension off to install a fixed stock. The thing is an absolute bear. I cannot get the CAstle nut to even move. It doesn't even appear staked. Anyone have some tips??
Frustrated project G |
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If you have a heat gun, try it before the torch. Or soak it down with a penetrating oil over night. Also
take a look at the threads to see if any are smashed or otherwise damaged and preventing the castle nut from coming off. If the threads are damaged you can use a needle file to carefully clean them up enough to loosen the castle nut. |
| This is probably gonna make some of yall cringe but I took my stock wrench and welded a 16 inch small bar to the end of it.. I then got 2 blocks of wood (2x4 pieces about 6 inches long) carved it to kinda looks like the sides of the reciever.. lightly clamped the reciever between the blocks and with one hand over the castle nut and wrench pulling it making sure to put tension on it so it doesnt slip. then used the other hand to slowely breakit free.. workseverytime.. havent slipped yet and it has always removed every stuck and staked nut out there.....OK im ready for all the bad comments now..lol |
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This is probably gonna make some of yall cringe but I took my stock wrench and welded a 16 inch small bar to the end of it.. I then got 2 blocks of wood (2x4 pieces about 6 inches long) carved it to kinda looks like the sides of the reciever.. lightly clamped the reciever between the blocks and with one hand over the castle nut and wrench pulling it making sure to put tension on it so it doesnt slip. then used the other hand to slowely breakit free.. workseverytime.. havent slipped yet and it has always removed every stuck and staked nut out there.....OK im ready for all the bad comments now..lol I don't see anything wrong with your method. Sometimes you just need more torque. First barrel I ever replaced was like this. I tried heating the nut with a torch, freezing, soaking in kroil for a few days, finally I took a piece of pipe and a breaker bar and pop goes the weasel. Funny thing, there was still grease on the threads and no sign of any galvanic corrosion. It was just overtightened. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
This is probably gonna make some of yall cringe but I took my stock wrench and welded a 16 inch small bar to the end of it.. I then got 2 blocks of wood (2x4 pieces about 6 inches long) carved it to kinda looks like the sides of the reciever.. lightly clamped the reciever between the blocks and with one hand over the castle nut and wrench pulling it making sure to put tension on it so it doesnt slip. then used the other hand to slowely breakit free.. workseverytime.. havent slipped yet and it has always removed every stuck and staked nut out there.....OK im ready for all the bad comments now..lol I don't see anything wrong with your method. Sometimes you just need more torque. First barrel I ever replaced was like this. I tried heating the nut with a torch, freezing, soaking in kroil for a few days, finally I took a piece of pipe and a breaker bar and pop goes the weasel. Funny thing, there was still grease on the threads and no sign of any galvanic corrosion. It was just overtightened. Ya know thats what gets me...Its like they make it so people cant work on there own stuff or that they hope you will break somethign so you have to send it back. Lucky for us good ole American know how goes a long way. I just found the method I use to work everytime. O I forgot to mention make sure its a good quality wrench and not a UTG one or something. You dont want it rounding the lugs on the wrench and slipping.. |
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Then go buy a new roll pin punch ummm, how do you figure? I've done this a few times and its always worked with no damage to the $4 punch. Think this falls into the "your mileage may vary" index of things that work for some, maybe not so much for others. Whatever gets the job done huh? Least now the OP has several methods to try. |
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Then go buy a new roll pin punch Or reface it with a grinder/file. Can anyone think of a reason not to clamp the buffer tube instead of the receiver? It is far easier to make a vise jaw for the tube... A torch is fine for applying heat, just heat the castle nut a bit. |
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I'd love to see how your reground "roll pin punch" looks. Look at the lower punch, notice the teat?
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=193087 |
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