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Posted: 4/12/2010 4:03:23 PM EDT
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I take a roll of electrical tape and lay on its side and drill a hole in the tape part and place it under one ear of the trigger ared on the lower. Tap the pin out and it pushes into the hope in the tape roll. I do not like tapping and hammering on the pin as I am afraid that the lower ears may crack.
Is there a better way? I have thought about getting an heat gu used for shrink tubing, heating the area, coeffecient of expansion of the aluminum lower is greater than the steal roll pin. Any other suggestions? I have been successful so far on at least 10 lowers, but I am really thinking hard before I start the proces on my new LMT MRP. 77 |
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Actually the trigger guard it what needs to be supported/clamped since the roll pin is pressed into there and NOT the "ears" of the lower. the roll pin contacts the ears on the receiver, the hole in the trigger guard is larger then the pin allowing it to turn. unlatch your trigger guard from the mag well, work it back and forth and watch the pin, it will not move in relation to the receiver. support the ears and tap it out with the right sized punch. |
| I have changed out dozens of trigger guards from one style to another, thinking the grass is greener on the other side. That said, I use a block of wood with a 3/16 inch hole drilled in it for the roll pin to drop in and tap it out with a roll pin punch. Knock on wood I have not broken one yet. You MUST support the back side ear fully or you will snap it off. |
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Actually the trigger guard it what needs to be supported/clamped since the roll pin is pressed into there and NOT the "ears" of the lower. the roll pin contacts the ears on the receiver, the hole in the trigger guard is larger then the pin allowing it to turn. unlatch your trigger guard from the mag well, work it back and forth and watch the pin, it will not move in relation to the receiver. support the ears and tap it out with the right sized punch. To all, thanks for the feed back, all very helpful, Shrikefan, I believe J75 may be correct...as when I do reinstall the pin, the resistance is immediately in the frame ears. The pin is tight on the frame and the hole in the trigger guard is larger, trigger guard rotates on the pin, as to not wear the frame out... Raineir Arms has a trigger guard that is a Magpul that is modified and uses cap screws instead of roll pins, however they are out of stock and have no idea when they will get more in.... 77 |
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So you are squeezing the roll pin in with the pliers? I tried the same with a C clamp, worked goodby doing this there is no force on the ears, only squeezing action? Thanks, 77 That's how I did it on the rifles I worked on. The key is just to take it very slowly. |
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Actually the trigger guard it what needs to be supported/clamped since the roll pin is pressed into there and NOT the "ears" of the lower. the roll pin contacts the ears on the receiver, the hole in the trigger guard is larger then the pin allowing it to turn. unlatch your trigger guard from the mag well, work it back and forth and watch the pin, it will not move in relation to the receiver. support the ears and tap it out with the right sized punch. Of the ones I have ever checked the pin rotated in the receiver and was stationary in relation to the trigger guard. Measurements also confirmed that the hole in the trigger guard was smaller than the hole in the receiver. Only a couple thousandths but smaller nonetheless. I haven't checked all the trigger guards and lowers ever made so some may not follow the results I have found but I find it hard to believe that the ones I checked were the only faulty ones ever made. YMMV |
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When it comes time to reinstall it, I use a pair of water-pump/channel-lock pliers(wrapped in electric tape) to ease it in while simultaneously supporting the ears. Worked like a charm. I start with a punch and finish it off like this. To me, driving that pin is the scariest part (only part to really worry about) of putting one of these guns together |
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Actually the trigger guard it what needs to be supported/clamped since the roll pin is pressed into there and NOT the "ears" of the lower. the roll pin contacts the ears on the receiver, the hole in the trigger guard is larger then the pin allowing it to turn. unlatch your trigger guard from the mag well, work it back and forth and watch the pin, it will not move in relation to the receiver. support the ears and tap it out with the right sized punch. Of the ones I have ever checked the pin rotated in the receiver and was stationary in relation to the trigger guard. Measurements also confirmed that the hole in the trigger guard was smaller than the hole in the receiver. Only a couple thousandths but smaller nonetheless. I haven't checked all the trigger guards and lowers ever made so some may not follow the results I have found but I find it hard to believe that the ones I checked were the only faulty ones ever made. YMMV i put in thousands upon thousands of them while i worked for DPMS. cant even guess how many i have done, if your receiver is milspec, it should be the same way |
I use a 3/8" thick block of wood or plastic and a 3/32" punch to remove them. The first picture is the placement with the grip off. The second is the placement with the grip on. The 3/8" thickness fits under the ears while the rest of the lower lays flat on the surface. I use the 3/32" instead of a 1/8" because sometimes the 1/8" will stick in the the ears. (There are holes under the roll pin that are not seen)
 
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Actually the trigger guard it what needs to be supported/clamped since the roll pin is pressed into there and NOT the "ears" of the lower. the roll pin contacts the ears on the receiver, the hole in the trigger guard is larger then the pin allowing it to turn. unlatch your trigger guard from the mag well, work it back and forth and watch the pin, it will not move in relation to the receiver. support the ears and tap it out with the right sized punch. Of the ones I have ever checked the pin rotated in the receiver and was stationary in relation to the trigger guard. Measurements also confirmed that the hole in the trigger guard was smaller than the hole in the receiver. Only a couple thousandths but smaller nonetheless. I haven't checked all the trigger guards and lowers ever made so some may not follow the results I have found but I find it hard to believe that the ones I checked were the only faulty ones ever made. YMMV i put in thousands upon thousands of them while i worked for DPMS. cant even guess how many i have done, if your receiver is milspec, it should be the same way Are Colt lowers Mil-Spec? Are DPMS lowers Mil-Spec? |
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well, I apologize,
pretty much all AR's are made to a standard spec, which varies from the "mil spec" in the areas that are required to be legal. if they weren't made to the same specifications then they wouldn't have parts interchangeably. with the exception of the pivot and hinge pin diameter, and some proprietary bbl extensions. the parts are interchangeable. |
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well, I apologize, pretty much all AR's are made to a standard spec, which varies from the "mil spec" in the areas that are required to be legal. if they weren't made to the same specifications then they wouldn't have parts interchangeably. with the exception of the pivot and hinge pin diameter, and some proprietary bbl extensions. the parts are interchangeable. I know - just rattlin' yer chain a little. 
If anybody wants to check their trigger guard pin just bend/darken a toothpick and put it in the roll pin. Unlock the trigger guard and see if the darkened/bent toothpick rotates. |
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Actually the trigger guard it what needs to be supported/clamped since the roll pin is pressed into there and NOT the "ears" of the lower. the roll pin contacts the ears on the receiver, the hole in the trigger guard is larger then the pin allowing it to turn. unlatch your trigger guard from the mag well, work it back and forth and watch the pin, it will not move in relation to the receiver. support the ears and tap it out with the right sized punch. +1 You MUST support the off-side ear solidly or it will break off. I use a properly cut piece of oak with a drilled hole to receive the pin. Have someone help you to hold and stabilize everything while you pound out the pin. Breaking the receiver is a really bad feeling. Believe me, I did it once. |
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I just opened a LPK and pulled out the trigger guard and roll pin, tried to insert into a stripped lower I have and the roll pin is tight in the lower and real tight in the trigger guard....would not go into neither.
Looking at the contact surface area, I would say the pin is going to clamp onto the trigger guard and turn relative to the lower.... Rainier Arms has the best set up, cap screws to hold into place.....they just do not know when they will get more in.... Thanks, 77 |
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I just opened a LPK and pulled out the trigger guard and roll pin, tried to insert into a stripped lower I have and the roll pin is tight in the lower and real tight in the trigger guard....would not go into neither. Looking at the contact surface area, I would say the pin is going to clamp onto the trigger guard and turn relative to the lower.... Rainier Arms has the best set up, cap screws to hold into place.....they just do not know when they will get more in.... Thanks, 77 Some of us do our own button head screw mod... http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=2&f=124&t=181279 I do all mine with 5-40 Helicoils and retain the TG with three 5-40 button heads. |
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