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6/6/2007 1:21:59 PM EDT
IS there a difference?  They look identical besides the company logo...

The Troy model is $30-$50 cheaper

???

6/6/2007 1:27:01 PM EDT
[#1]
Use the search option.

Troy Rails
6/6/2007 4:42:04 PM EDT
[#2]
Same thing, just different markings.  
6/6/2007 7:04:22 PM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:
Same thing, just different markings.  


Not exactly.  I need to find the thread but somebody compared the two and the Samson's sounded a lil better.
6/6/2007 9:31:22 PM EDT
[#4]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Same thing, just different markings.  


Not exactly.  I need to find the thread but somebody compared the two and the Samson's sounded a lil better.


You know what, you're right.  The Samson model has an extra screw on the bottom rail to increase rigidty, or something like that.  So, yep, you're right.  The Samson model(s) do have an extra desgin trick to it.  Oooops!
6/7/2007 3:10:12 AM EDT
[#5]
The troy rail no longer uses the spring and detent. It uses a screw to hold the bottom rail in place. 99% of the people who buy a rail don't use a M203 and do not need to remove the bottom section.
6/7/2007 7:01:08 AM EDT
[#6]
Hey guys...found what I was talking about earlier....

Here ya go

www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=118&t=330840



Quoted:
I have both the Samson and Troy carbine length rails.

Things I noticed.

Differences:

-My Troy does not have the proper cut outs in order to use KAC panels.  My Samson does.
-Samson has an extra bolt to hold the lower rail on.  Troy does not.  This makes the Troy feel like it has a slight amount of wiggle.
-Samson has some extra heli-coil threaded holes at 45 degree's on the rail.  Troy does not. My guess is that they are for a Sling swivel.
-Samson's clamp over the barrel nut is a bit big and can interfere with rail panels.  Rail panels need to be trimmed to fit that area.  Troys clamp is slimmer and didn't interfere with the panels I tried.
-Troy has an extra picatiny notch on the top rail.  This is located on the rearmost barrel nut side of the rail and gives it more of an MRP look.

Similarities:

-Both brand's rails have heli-coil inserts for the barrel nut clamp.
-Both brand's have great fit and finish.
-When installing, it's easier to attach the lower rail when the barrel nut clamp isn't fully tightened.  I put CLP on all the tabs to help assist in installation.  They didn't get scratched up.
-You don't have to cut the delta ring assembly in order to install.  If you have the proper AR gun-smithing tools, you can remove the delta ring without removing the frontsight block.  This is great if you have a pinned Flash Suppressor.  First remove the hand-guards. Then punch out the gas tube roll pin. Remove the gas tube.  Loosen and remove the barrel nut, with attached delta ring assembly.  Remove barrel assembly from upper.  Use snap ring pliers to remove snap ring from barrel nut. Then just pull off the weld spring and delta ring.  After that re-assemble the upper in the reverse order minus the delta ring assembly.  This also gives you a chance to re-align your barrel if your front sight block is canted. Also, if you have some trouble remove the barrel from your upper, try loosening your action block a tad. (It tends to flex the receiver a bit and grip the barrel.

Overall, I really like my Troy rail.  It's pretty darn solid and well made.  Only things I would like to see.  Reduced weight.  Add bolt to lower rail.
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