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Posted: 6/22/2024 3:56:19 PM EDT
So with my new HUB compatible suppressor due out of jail any day now, I'm trying to replace the Surefire Muzzle Device on my DDM4 with a KeyMo MD, but I just CANNOT get the current MD to break loose. I installed this MD myself, with NO Loctite, and I did NOT overtighten it I'm sure .... because I never do .... because I know very little in my personal AR world is ever permanent ...
But it just will NOT break. I have the complete upper slipped over a reaction rod fixed in the vise, horizontally. With the wrench perpendicular to the barrel, I gave it some taps with the rubber mallet. Gave it some HARDER taps. Gave it some REAL WHALLOPS. Nothing. It's to the point I am seriously concerned about damaging the barrel even with the reaction rod - as the force being applied is significantly more ANGULAR than it is ROTATIONAL. Sort of at a loss as to what to try next. I dropped some penetrating oil in there, for what little good that will do, there is no corrosion or anything, all of these components are relatively new and perfectly clean. I sure would appreciate any advice! |
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[Last Edit: IcmThrawn]
[#1]
Heat gun or torch it.
Edit to add: I've done this on multiple MDs and the mag tube on my Benelli M4. Some had red loctite or rocksett. Are you sure you didn't put rocksett on it? All my surefires came with it. |
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"Safety is something that happens between your ears, not something you hold in your hands." - Col. Jeff Cooper
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[Last Edit: raverill]
[#2]
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[#3]
If only there was a simple way to increase leverage...
You need a breaker bar or longer wrench. Gradually increase torque until it breaks free. |
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[#4]
Heat the shit out of it first.
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"The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him."
G. K. Chesterton |
[#5]
A propane torch should do it.
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NRA Patron Member
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[#6]
Reaction rod can loosen the barrel extension and shear the index pin if too much force required when removing a muzzle device
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"Extremism in the defense of liberty is no vice. ... Moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue."
Co founder Nebraska Firearms Owner's Association http://nebraskafirearms.org/ |
[#7]
Originally Posted By AT-ST83: If only there was a simple way to increase leverage... You need a breaker bar or longer wrench. Gradually increase torque until it breaks free. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By AT-ST83: If only there was a simple way to increase leverage... You need a breaker bar or longer wrench. Gradually increase torque until it breaks free. If only there were not lots of different ways to approach this sort of issue .... If only a less experienced person could get the opinions of more experienced people on choosing among these many options, here on a forum designed largely for just that purpose, without getting the sarcasm and disrespect we end up seeing so often .... (present company excluded, of course) If only .... Originally Posted By LJUnaTIC: Reaction rod can loosen the barrel extension and shear the index pin if too much force required when removing a muzzle device This is exactly what I was concerned about. Anything more than a good tap on the wrench and nothing good could result. I had no extension or other means with which to increase the leverage ... so I had to fabricate something out of an old length of cast iron pipe. The MD took a LOT of heat from the plumbing torch before it finally moved, but finally it did. Thanks much for the advice all. I'm by no means a pro at any of this stuff but I like to learn and I like to do as much of that learning WITHOUT breaking things as possible. |
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[#8]
Clamp the barrel and put some ass behind the wrench. It'll come off.
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Can't never could 'til try came along.
"All welchers should be removed from the EE".-Aimless R.I.P. to the EE |
[#9]
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"Now none of the frightened soldiers moved, for they saw that cowardice and valor purchased equal plots in the snipers' killing field."
“Everything is hard before it is easy.” |
[#10]
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[#11]
If you:
a) installed it yourself, and b) are sure you didn’t use Loctite or Rocksett, and c) didn’t way overtorque it…. then it’s likely just carbon locked on there. A little penetrating oil or carbon cleaner type gun lube should be enough to loosen the seal and allow it to break free pretty easily. |
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[#12]
You shoudn't use a barrel extension vise on something like this, as the only thing keeping the barrel extension from spinning off is the index pin.
Use a proper barrel clamp like this Wheeler.You can even use rosin on the jaws for extra grip. Solid bench and vise. Soak it in Kroil and heat it. Use a 24" breaker bar. |
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[#13]
First off I would highly recommend you soak it in Kroil and let it sit for a day to let the Kroil do it's magic. Then either brace the barrel in a vise and barrel blocks, or take a look at the Rench tool from Michiguns.
Rench tool from Michiguns CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" SLR15 Rifles DefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 |
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[Last Edit: DVCER]
[#14]
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"The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him."
G. K. Chesterton |
[Last Edit: bfoosh06]
[#15]
Originally Posted By sully: First off I would highly recommend you soak it in Kroil and let it sit for a day to let the Kroil do it's magic. Then either brace the barrel in a vise and barrel blocks, or take a look at the Rench tool from Michiguns. Rench tool from Michiguns CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" SLR15 Rifles DefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 View Quote This... and there was just a thread about someone fubar'ing his Surefire and the barrels threads... the moral was, lube after cleaning the threads. And not saying you installed it dry... just mentioning it so others know. |
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*Hold on to your AR-15s. Their magic must be very powerful, or they wouldn’t want them.*
JAFOM.... Just another fat old man. ________________________________ TOGC,IADC |
[#16]
Never use a reaction rod to remove a muzzle device. Never ever.
Just clamp on the barrel tightly using the appropriate clamps, heat the muzzle device using a torch or a heat gun, and then put some weight on your breaker bar and it will come loose. |
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[#17]
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Can't never could 'til try came along.
"All welchers should be removed from the EE".-Aimless R.I.P. to the EE |
[#18]
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[Last Edit: OTDR]
[#19]
Originally Posted By sully: First off I would highly recommend you soak it in Kroil and let it sit for a day to let the Kroil do it's magic. Then either brace the barrel in a vise and barrel blocks, or take a look at the Rench tool from Michiguns. Rench tool from Michiguns CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" SLR15 Rifles DefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 View Quote Sully do you have any direct experience using the M Guns RENCH? The reason I ask I bought one about a year ago, clamped it in a 6" vice as tight as possible and anything above 25-30# feet of torque the barrel would rotate. The RENCH is not very wide so it gets little actual purchase on the barrel. What was I doing wrong or any other insights you can help with my using it? TIA! |
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[#20]
I had the dremel mine off. Heat, soaking in oil, several strap and block methods did not work
Go slow, and don’t cut into the threads. I started at the tip on each side, cut all the way through until it got to the threading, then just took it easy. Put a chisel in the cut and it popped right off. |
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GD is like putting on crampons and walking through a room full of puppies.
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[#21]
Originally Posted By OTDR: Sully do you have any direct experience using the M Guns RENCH? The reason I ask I bought one about a year ago, clamped it in a 6" vice as tight as possible and anything above 25-30# feet of torque the barrel would rotate. The RENCH is not very wide so it gets little actual purchase on the barrel. What was I doing wrong or any other insights you can help with my using it? TIA! View Quote Use some pine rosin. I don’t use their overpriced product (my pockets aren’t that deep for a tool when a much cheaper alternative exists) but my aluminum barrel vice jaws want to slip sometimes also. I wrap a few turns of newspaper around the barrel and dust the paper, inside and out, with pine rosin. That never fails without any damage to anything. |
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Join the N.R.A.
Beware speaking with a sharp tongue as you are apt to cut your own throat. My name is John Wick, you killed my puppy, prepare to die. |
[#22]
Originally Posted By OTDR: Sully do you have any direct experience using the M Guns RENCH? The reason I ask I bought one about a year ago, clamped it in a 6" vice as tight as possible and anything above 25-30# feet of torque the barrel would rotate. The RENCH is not very wide so it gets little actual purchase on the barrel. What was I doing wrong or any other insights you can help with my using it? TIA! View Quote I've had several times the RENCH tool has come in handy and worked well. I have had 2 nitrided barrels that is slid around in. I ended up clampint on those barrels in a set of barrel blocks in a larger vise, with a little rosin as already mentioned. As for as the original issue of this one being stuck. Soak in Kroil as I mentioned, give it a day to work its magic. Then if it still won't come loose, try a little heat, followed by a shot of cold from something like CRC Freezoff. I find that sometimes the heat, followed by a quick blast of cold, along with the Kroil on everything, will usually get things loose. CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" SLR15 Rifles DefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 |
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[#23]
Originally Posted By Big-Bore: Use some pine rosin. I don’t use their overpriced product (my pockets aren’t that deep for a tool when a much cheaper alternative exists) but my aluminum barrel vice jaws want to slip sometimes also. I wrap a few turns of newspaper around the barrel and dust the paper, inside and out, with pine rosin. That never fails without any damage to anything. View Quote "Like" ... I keep forgetting to buy some pine rosin. |
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*Hold on to your AR-15s. Their magic must be very powerful, or they wouldn’t want them.*
JAFOM.... Just another fat old man. ________________________________ TOGC,IADC |
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