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7/14/2016 10:48:06 PM EDT
Like the title says the ejector is stuck in the bolt. I have the retaining pin out however the ejector is stuck flush with the bolt face. Any ideas to get it out? It's been stuck for a month or so and I've tried penetrating oil and applied heat with a small torch with no luck.
7/15/2016 12:14:53 AM EDT
[#1]
Can you show a picture of the problem? I'm having trouble visualizing how it is stuck.
7/15/2016 12:22:49 AM EDT
[#2]
I don't know how to post pictures on here but picture the blot face with the ejector completely pushed all the way in so there's just a flat surface
7/15/2016 12:30:39 AM EDT
[#3]
OP
If the retaining pin is out then there is nothing else but fitment between the edges of the ejector and the bolt..  Take a small screwdriver and pry it out.  Don't be surprised if it shoots out once you get past the binding edge, there is a spring under there..

Report back, please.
7/15/2016 12:34:03 AM EDT
[#4]
Don't be lookin' at it when it comes out.
7/15/2016 12:43:41 AM EDT
[#5]
I've tried to pry it out but it literally is wedged flat.  I've tried screw drivers, metal dental instruments and every small tool I can think of to pry it loose.  I've heated the bolt and tried tapping it out all without success.  The screwdriver pull work but there's nothing to get the needed leverage to apply outward force.  I do appreciate everyone's suggestions, keep them coming.
7/15/2016 8:03:22 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote History
Quoted:
I've tried to pry it out but it literally is wedged flat.  I've tried screw drivers, metal dental instruments and every small tool I can think of to pry it loose.  I've heated the bolt and tried tapping it out all without success.  The screwdriver pull work but there's nothing to get the needed leverage to apply outward force.  I do appreciate everyone's suggestions, keep them coming.
View Quote

What happened to get is stuck.  Pictures help.

7/15/2016 9:58:37 AM EDT
[#7]
try something like this, but with duct tape instead of masking tape. whack it hard against hard surface like wood and hopefully that will get it out. good luck!

















Bruce

 
7/15/2016 4:07:22 PM EDT
[#8]
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_66/689639_Stuck_Ejector.html
Hence use the back of the ejector weep channel to blow the stuck pin out with a compressor and a blow gun tip.


And NO on whacking the bolt lugs off something hard, since your just gong to hair line fracture one of the lugs instead.
7/15/2016 7:31:14 PM EDT
[#9]
Thanks for the suggestion on compressed air I had not thought of that.  Gonna go give it a try I'll report back later.   Thanks to everyone for their suggestions!
7/15/2016 10:06:15 PM EDT
[#10]

Quote History
Quoted:


http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_66/689639_Stuck_Ejector.html

Hence use the back of the ejector weep channel to blow the stuck pin out with a compressor and a blow gun tip.





And NO on whacking the bolt lugs off something hard, since your just gong to hair line fracture one of the lugs instead.
View Quote
even wood?



Bruce



 
7/16/2016 3:09:54 AM EDT
[#11]
Well I got it out.  I ended up tapping it in further into the bolt like someone suggested(thank you) and then I installed it into the carrier put it into the upper and let the force of the buffer spring just pop it out when it sent the carrier back.  Thanks to everyone for their help!
7/16/2016 4:55:44 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote History
Quoted:
even wood?

Bruce
 
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Quoted:
Quoted:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_66/689639_Stuck_Ejector.html
Hence use the back of the ejector weep channel to blow the stuck pin out with a compressor and a blow gun tip.


And NO on whacking the bolt lugs off something hard, since your just gong to hair line fracture one of the lugs instead.
even wood?

Bruce
 



Yes, even wood with the leverage force being shown with the bolt taped on the end of a stick.

Hence if you take a good look the way the B/C works, the cam at the end of the  carrier slot should stop the bolt from slamming off the face of the barrel extension.  During ignition, the ejector has the bolt lugs pre-loaded tight against the barrel lugs, so even during ignition, the lugs are still not taking a running start at the lugs even them.

The way to think of it, is although the bolt lugs are hardened and then tempered, you just don't want to take the chance of starting a hair line fracture on the bolt by whacking it against something hard isntead.

Although these are a batch of bolts that where not hardened/tempter'd correctly for the most part (while others just had a high round count instead), it at least gives you and ideal of how a lug will shear shortly after it does get a hair line crack to begin with.

7/16/2016 10:31:32 PM EDT
[#13]

Quote History
Quoted:
Yes, even wood with the leverage force being shown with the bolt taped on the end of a stick.



Hence if you take a good look the way the B/C works, the cam at the end of the  carrier slot should stop the bolt from slamming off the face of the barrel extension.  During ignition, the ejector has the bolt lugs pre-loaded tight against the barrel lugs, so even during ignition, the lugs are still not taking a running start at the lugs even them.



The way to think of it, is although the bolt lugs are hardened and then tempered, you just don't want to take the chance of starting a hair line fracture on the bolt by whacking it against something hard isntead.



Although these are a batch of bolts that where not hardened/tempter'd correctly for the most part (while others just had a high round count instead), it at least gives you and ideal of how a lug will shear shortly after it does get a hair line crack to begin with.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c354/czshooter/Shooting/2012-11-09_15-00-40_569.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c354/czshooter/Shooting/2012-11-09_15-02-22_629.jpg
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Quoted:



Quoted:


Quoted:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_66/689639_Stuck_Ejector.html

Hence use the back of the ejector weep channel to blow the stuck pin out with a compressor and a blow gun tip.





And NO on whacking the bolt lugs off something hard, since your just gong to hair line fracture one of the lugs instead.
even wood?



Bruce

 






Yes, even wood with the leverage force being shown with the bolt taped on the end of a stick.



Hence if you take a good look the way the B/C works, the cam at the end of the  carrier slot should stop the bolt from slamming off the face of the barrel extension.  During ignition, the ejector has the bolt lugs pre-loaded tight against the barrel lugs, so even during ignition, the lugs are still not taking a running start at the lugs even them.



The way to think of it, is although the bolt lugs are hardened and then tempered, you just don't want to take the chance of starting a hair line fracture on the bolt by whacking it against something hard isntead.



Although these are a batch of bolts that where not hardened/tempter'd correctly for the most part (while others just had a high round count instead), it at least gives you and ideal of how a lug will shear shortly after it does get a hair line crack to begin with.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c354/czshooter/Shooting/2012-11-09_15-00-40_569.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c354/czshooter/Shooting/2012-11-09_15-02-22_629.jpg
this is good to know.  never thought about how weak those things are.



Bruce



 
7/17/2016 2:59:32 AM EDT
[#14]
I wouldn't call  the bolt weak, but instead of metal peen'g if a blow is made too hard to  one of the lugs, the metal will want to shatter isntead..
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