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Posted: 10/8/2012 12:36:28 PM EDT
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So I'd hate to use my AR indoors due to the SF Brake.
I'd lose my eardrums for sure––though I suppose the bleeding would eventually stop (my ears and the other guys body) and most of the hearing would some day return. I was wondering if SF or anyone made QD FAKE suppressors (which I could cut down) OR how difficult it would be to make something that basically covered the muzzle brake and directed sound and blast forward?! I bet SF could make such a device for $20 a unit; though I'd hate to see a $500 mark-up, I'd totally pay $50 for anything, and $75-100 for something with a little design effort going into it. I just want a 2"-3.5" metal bell/cover over my brake that won't fly off or explode from the pressure, but will redirect sound and blast forward, to leave on except when I go to the range or a class. I've seen barrels that have perm-attached cages to keep it a legal length without a suppressor, so I know there are people making interesting things out there––just seems like this would fill a need. Maybe some CAD/CMC machinist should start a kickstarter program up, |
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I bet if you spent north of $1200, you could just buy a suppressor for it.
Or, you could not use a brake? Are you suggesting that even with this.. muzzle-shroud, you'd enjoy using it indoors? I guess I'm confused to the benefit one would receive from this device you're speaking of. |
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Noveske Flaming pig.
I HATE surefire brakes. They are obnoxious even outside and I will not stand next to someone shooting one... Honestly, keep some electronic ear pro by the bed or don't worry about it. If you have time, use them. You can get a set of Howard Leight Impact Pro for your $50 budget. |
You may be barking up the wrong tree here... For starters, a muzzle brake works by redirecting the blast - if you re-redirect it up close to the chambers, you're basically defeating the whole point of it. What you're proposing would functionally be a large, heavy, quick attach version of a KX3. In which case I would suggest, while it could be built - maybe a KX3 is what you really want. There's a reason that of all things the things that have made the jump from competition to combat, the muzzle brake/compensator has been resistant to it for so long. That brake belongs in the can - it's as much a sacrificial blast baffle as a functional brake. Even if you might be interested in this product, I suspect the market would not support very many units. You may be better served by another muzzle device. ~Augee |
| I have thought about this too actually. It isn't really a KX3 it is more of a hybrid of a regular dual-port brake and a kx3. The Brake redirects the blast sideways and up as a brake would normally do then the shroud redirects it forward. I would think by the time the blast hit the shroud the brake would have already done its job, but the shroud would still be able to direct the sound forward. Seems like it would be relatively easy to test. Find some sort of thin metal cylinder (an aluminum water bottle might work good) and cut it in half and drill a hole in the bottom. You can then sandwich that between the brake and the shoulder of the threaded end. Well I guess tightening it might be a bitch but you get the idea. |
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If you are stuck on having the SF brake on your HD rifle, then I would get the paperwork started on getting a can. As previously posted, the SF brake was designed as a sacrificial first baffle for a can and, I'm told, there are much better brakes to run if you aren't going to run suppressed. If you don't want to get a can, then, as previously suggested, get an pair of electronic ear muffs and clamp them to your stock. If your home security is layered as it's supposed to be(i.e. good locks and stout doors, barking dog, etc) then you will have plenty of time to don the muffs before deploying your rifle.
Or you could replace the brake with an A2. |
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MSB:
I don't know if there are many brakes out there better than the SF...if we're talking about reducing recoil and muzzle-rise without being as big as an SJC Titan. I've tried 4 of the more popular ones, but found this to be the best (though if I'd timed my PWS a bit to one side, it'd have been almost as good). I know some giant, heavier competition brakes might be marginally better, but the SF seems to generally be considered the best of the 'tactical/practical' brakes. Others: I don't really want to spend $1200 for a suppressor (that may still not be hearing safe inside a house––though it would, again, mitigate the pain, which IS what I'm after, albeit with one less zero), though I love them on .22LR. While they play a great role in concealing position and saving the hearing of those around you, it's not worth the money for me to have in case of HD...if I had that much money id buy another gun or more ammo––and I'm also not into the added weight and length. I just want to have a QD option for turning the brake into a blast re-director for when the carbine is sitting around the house. I don't thing the "kx3 pig" is a brake, is it? I thought it was a super flash hider for short-barreled guns. With no ports going backwards, I don't see how it would reduce recoil––though the weight alone would reduce muzzle-rise. That said, I DON'T CARE that I'm losing the effect of a muzzle-brake ("defeating the whole point of it"––thats not the point), I'm just thinking that it would be used to go from catastrophic, bleeding ear injury to major ear pain/ringing (like shooting inside with a flash hider––or probably a little less). In HD situations I'm not concerned with muzzle rise and recoil....but on the range, where I've done 100% of my shooting so far, I like both properties. |
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