AR Sponsor
Posted: 12/7/2009 12:20:56 PM EDT
| I'm thinking of buying a surefire scout. Anyone know where to get deal on them? I've seen them on Ebay for around $250 but I am afriad to buy on ebay due to all the counterfeit crap on the site. |
|
Quoted:
If the scout is a little pricey then I would recommend using the Surefire E2D led defender. I have this light as my walk around light and it is impressive. 200 Lumen output, good throw, and a quick click can bump the output down to 15 lumens for low light nav. Wont recoil cause it to also bump down to 15 lumens? |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
If the scout is a little pricey then I would recommend using the Surefire E2D led defender. I have this light as my walk around light and it is impressive. 200 Lumen output, good throw, and a quick click can bump the output down to 15 lumens for low light nav. Wont recoil cause it to also bump down to 15 lumens? No, absolutely not. There are tons of people that use The E2D as their weapon light and it is flawless. The 15 lumen option is nice to have when you don't want use the full power of the light. |
|
Quoted:
What is the outer diameter on the handle of the E2D LED? i.e. what size mount? The 1" variants? Not quite sure what the outer diameter is. I use the VLTOR mount with my E2D and L4 Lumamax. brightflashlights has the mounts also and they will know what you are looking for. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
If the scout is a little pricey then I would recommend using the Surefire E2D led defender. I have this light as my walk around light and it is impressive. 200 Lumen output, good throw, and a quick click can bump the output down to 15 lumens for low light nav. Wont recoil cause it to also bump down to 15 lumens? No, absolutely not. There are tons of people that use The E2D as their weapon light and it is flawless. The 15 lumen option is nice to have when you don't want use the full power of the light. Actually I've heard of cases where recoil HAS caused a level change in the E2DL head. The switch is electronic, with a dip in voltage causing the LED to switch from high to low or low to high. But even if inadvertent output changes wasn't an issue, the possibility of having to find high in a stressful situation is not a good thing. Separate nav lights are a better solution. If a two-stage weaponlight was such a great idea, SureFire would have built their weaponlights that way long ago. |
|
Quoted:
Anyone try Fenix lights out? I just stumbled upon them and I like that they have a strobe function. I have a Fenix and the strobe is worthless. Its too hard to activate. Its only use is for making people see you better, much like my Streamlight I use for duty when I put a traffic wand on it... mutiple clicks for strobe means it cant be used intermitently and if it cant be used intermittently it can be used for a weapon or under stress. I have a Gladius for temporoary/intermittent strobe function and its great for that... just remember strobe cuts your perceived output and range in half. |
|
Quoted:
I was looking at a decent metal mount and led surefire with clicky switch. By the time you buy all the pieces you might as well buy the Scout. I got mine for $250 after discount from removing the tape switch. Don't like em as they're a bad idea anyway. I pieced my Scoutlight together from new parts that were for sale over on Candlepowerforums. I only ended up paying about $140.00 (+/- a few $ for shipping) for my complete light. That is without a tape switch, though.. Scoutlight body and mount - $70 KX2 head - $45 Z61 clickie tailcap - $25 ETA: Oh, yeah, my point. My point is, always check over at the marketplace on CPF. Someone is always unloading stuff for insanely reasonable prices... 
|
|
Quoted:
I was looking at a decent metal mount and led surefire with clicky switch. By the time you buy all the pieces you might as well buy the Scout. I got mine for $250 after discount from removing the tape switch. Don't like em as they're a bad idea anyway. I have never been concerned about my tapeswitch failing. It will not come unplugged from the light unless you want it to. I use a rail mounted surefire tapeswitch so it is not on the VFG and that seems to work out well. |
|
Quoted:
Anyone try Fenix lights out? I just stumbled upon them and I like that they have a strobe function. I have (2) TK11's and one of the things I liked about them is that they do not have a strobe. I also liked that is has a 60 lumen mode and a 240 lumen mode that you change by twisting the head so you do not have to worry about recoil changing it. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
I was looking at a decent metal mount and led surefire with clicky switch. By the time you buy all the pieces you might as well buy the Scout. I got mine for $250 after discount from removing the tape switch. Don't like em as they're a bad idea anyway. I have never been concerned about my tapeswitch failing. It will not come unplugged from the light unless you want it to. I use a rail mounted surefire tapeswitch so it is not on the VFG and that seems to work out well. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe Chris Costa, Travis Haley and Pat Rogers advise their students against tape switches. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
I was looking at a decent metal mount and led surefire with clicky switch. By the time you buy all the pieces you might as well buy the Scout. I got mine for $250 after discount from removing the tape switch. Don't like em as they're a bad idea anyway. I pieced my Scoutlight together from new parts that were for sale over on Candlepowerforums. I only ended up paying about $140.00 (+/- a few $ for shipping) for my complete light. That is without a tape switch, though.. Scoutlight body and mount - $70 KX2 head - $45 Z61 clickie tailcap - $25 CPF'ers know the value of lights, I find it hard to believe somebody sold you a $135 KX2 head for $45. I've never seen a scout body for sale, I don't seem to have good luck with that and I'd rather have it in hand than wait to save a few bucks. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I was looking at a decent metal mount and led surefire with clicky switch. By the time you buy all the pieces you might as well buy the Scout. I got mine for $250 after discount from removing the tape switch. Don't like em as they're a bad idea anyway. I pieced my Scoutlight together from new parts that were for sale over on Candlepowerforums. I only ended up paying about $140.00 (+/- a few $ for shipping) for my complete light. That is without a tape switch, though.. Scoutlight body and mount - $70 KX2 head - $45 Z61 clickie tailcap - $25 CPF'ers know the value of lights, I find it hard to believe somebody sold you a $135 KX2 head for $45. I've never seen a scout body for sale, I don't seem to have good luck with that and I'd rather have it in hand than wait to save a few bucks. There are several generations of the KX2 head. The one I bought is not the latest and greatest. I believe it's the 2nd Gen. model, which is in the 60+ lumen range.. |
|
Here is the build I am looking at for my "outdoor" AR light:
G&R Tactical body (6V and 9V available) = $36 Surefire Z68 clicky cap = $37 Markoff LED bulb (high output/flood: M60WF) = $55 Surefire Z44 head = $27 Total =$155 (+/- for shipping from three vendors) Flashlight body is E-series body diameter with larger series head (6P/G2). The voltage bulbs range will run with 6 or 9V with an output of 170 lumens. For an indoor light you can go with a Mafkoff M60LL at 80 lumens ($59) or one of the Surefire options in the 60Lumen range. |
|
Quoted:
In my opinion multi-stage weapon lights are not such a good idea. The VTAC/Surefire L4 is a good choice. Single stage with the KX2C LED head. Veddy nice. Great light. I use one on the AR and one for carry. http://www.vikingtactics.com/pop-vtac_surefire_L4.html |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
If the scout is a little pricey then I would recommend using the Surefire E2D led defender. I have this light as my walk around light and it is impressive. 200 Lumen output, good throw, and a quick click can bump the output down to 15 lumens for low light nav. Wont recoil cause it to also bump down to 15 lumens? No, absolutely not. There are tons of people that use The E2D as their weapon light and it is flawless. The 15 lumen option is nice to have when you don't want use the full power of the light. Actually I've heard of cases where recoil HAS caused a level change in the E2DL head. The switch is electronic, with a dip in voltage causing the LED to switch from high to low or low to high. But even if inadvertent output changes wasn't an issue, the possibility of having to find high in a stressful situation is not a good thing. Separate nav lights are a better solution. If a two-stage weaponlight was such a great idea, SureFire would have built their weaponlights that way long ago. It is the same button you are using and it is either high or low, if you can't find them in a high stress situation then you probably shouldn't be weilding a rifle in a high stress situation. (That's why you practice) If you cant find the same button quickly then how will you find a totally seperate switch for nav lights? I would think Surefire has thought of the idea but I don't think it is in high enough demand. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I was looking at a decent metal mount and led surefire with clicky switch. By the time you buy all the pieces you might as well buy the Scout. I got mine for $250 after discount from removing the tape switch. Don't like em as they're a bad idea anyway. I have never been concerned about my tapeswitch failing. It will not come unplugged from the light unless you want it to. I use a rail mounted surefire tapeswitch so it is not on the VFG and that seems to work out well. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe Chris Costa, Travis Haley and Pat Rogers advise their students against tape switches. There are pics floating around ARFCOM of Travis using an SR07 mounted on the top rail of his handguard. |
|
I just bought a Viking Tactics/Surefire L4 "Scout" light with the KX2C head and a VTAC mount. After much research, it seemed like the best bang for the buck in the market right now.
Anyways, does anybody know of a lens cap/cover for the KX2C head other than the stupidly expensive $75 surefire cover? I imagine just a Butler Creek cap would work but what size? I also know that heat dissipation is vitally important with L.E.D.'s. Does anybody think that a Butler Creek type cap would affect the performance or life of the KX2C head? |
| I ended up going with the fenix TA20 with a Viking Tactics mount. The strobe function isn't as blinding as others that I've seen but the spot beam is pretty nice and this combination has a nice clean look. It is not as bulky as I feared it would be. I ordered the pressure switch as well but won't be using it because the light is positioned just right to activate with my thumb when my hand is on the foregrip. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
If the scout is a little pricey then I would recommend using the Surefire E2D led defender. I have this light as my walk around light and it is impressive. 200 Lumen output, good throw, and a quick click can bump the output down to 15 lumens for low light nav. Wont recoil cause it to also bump down to 15 lumens? No, absolutely not. There are tons of people that use The E2D as their weapon light and it is flawless. The 15 lumen option is nice to have when you don't want use the full power of the light. Actually I've heard of cases where recoil HAS caused a level change in the E2DL head. The switch is electronic, with a dip in voltage causing the LED to switch from high to low or low to high. But even if inadvertent output changes wasn't an issue, the possibility of having to find high in a stressful situation is not a good thing. Separate nav lights are a better solution. If a two-stage weaponlight was such a great idea, SureFire would have built their weaponlights that way long ago. It is the same button you are using and it is either high or low, if you can't find them in a high stress situation then you probably shouldn't be weilding a rifle in a high stress situation. (That's why you practice) If you cant find the same button quickly then how will you find a totally seperate switch for nav lights? I would think Surefire has thought of the idea but I don't think it is in high enough demand. Try it on your SureFire with a electronic 2-stage switch, like an E2DL or an E1B. Clicking off and on too quickly will not register with the circuitry and the light will stay on low. Press the switch too softly and it won't click off. If you can reliably go from one stage to another, more power to you. I think for most, there are just too many variables and too many places to fail, fine motor skills not being the least. If a mechanical switch like the one on an L1 or LX2 was used, I might be open to using it. "Mashing down" on the button to activate high might be just as good as simple on/off. M900 weaponlights have a separate switch for navigation lights. Users seem to find them OK. |
|
Quoted:
I think for most, there are just too many variables and too many places to fail, fine motor skills not being the least. Thanks! I was thinking about this light. The dual output switch was an area of concern. I'm glad I read this before I spent the money. I hate cute gadget nonsense in any part of my life... but a weapon light is definitely no place for it. |
|
I too am not a fan of the dule mode switch on a weapons light (think that they rock for a EDC light). I work with electronics for a living and with good ammo in a proven weapon, with proven mags, I consider the electronics/light to be my "most likely to fail first item" . As others have said better than me in this thread, that feature is more of a liability than it is worth.
-With all that said: I think that the VTac lights is a great light, great features, for a great price. If you are not wanting to build your own, I would but that one in a heartbeat. |
AR Sponsor