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Posted: 8/23/2012 6:21:57 PM EDT
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Two questions:
On Surefire's website, there are units listed as "WeaponLights" and others as "Flashlights". Just making sure (don't want to assume too much)... 1) If I were to purchase an LED flashlight/mount for my AR15, would it be just as shock-resistant as the weapon lights (i.e. the Scout)? I'm not sure if there's something about them that makes them specific to the handheld market. 2) In the tacked article about how to use a light on a defensive gun, it says that above 120 lumens, a filter is needed to save your eyesight...looking at the lights on Surefire's website reveals that nearly every flashlight is above that luminescence - I know it sounds like a dumb question, but that means that you also need to purchase a filter for every Surefire flashlight to save yourself when strobing? Thanks very much for your help! I'm in very unfamiliar waters here and your input is GREATLY appreciated!!!!!! |
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1.) You'll probably want to buy one that has a substantial enough spring at both ends of the cell. A crush fit cell or driver base connected directly to cell is going to have problems with recoil. You'll probably want to make sure the drop-in is soundly built too. Malkoff is always good.
2.) This subject is a little more complicated. I haven't gone blind yet but I do wear glasses. I'm looking at building a 500-600 lumen mule with a warm or neutral tint. Not much worry about blinding myself if I don't point it at myself. It will however light up the room 180 degrees in front of you. Now if you point a P6 XRE with over 200 lumens at a white fridge 9 ft in front of you the glare from the hot spot coming back at you would make you see stars and damage your night vision. XRE on strobe pointed at my buddy feet away made him snap his whole head back in recoil. If it was diffused it wouldn't have as much effect. XPG has slightly less effect than XRE with the same size reflector. Lower lux/surface heat intensity differences however you want to explain it. More throw to the light effects the guy being strobed more than all out lumen output. Kind of like how getting hit with 3 gallons per minute out of a 3" hose doesn't hurt near as much as 2 gallons per minute out of a 1/16" jet. |
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the primary difference with the weaponlights versus the handhelds is the shock isolation for the batteries. The recoil causes the batteries to move back and forth with the light body and over time the battery pole can crush slightly. it can also damage the led depending on the spring used. That said, 223 doesnt create significant recoil. you will get longer life with the batteries and drop in led in 223 when compared to 308 or 12 ga. in those, I would definitely want a light body that has battery isolation.
Mark |
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Quoted:
Two questions: On Surefire's website, there are units listed as "WeaponLights" and others as "Flashlights". Just making sure (don't want to assume too much)... 1) If I were to purchase an LED flashlight/mount for my AR15, would it be just as shock-resistant as the weapon lights (i.e. the Scout)? I'm not sure if there's something about them that makes them specific to the handheld market. 2) In the tacked article about how to use a light on a defensive gun, it says that above 120 lumens, a filter is needed to save your eyesight...looking at the lights on Surefire's website reveals that nearly every flashlight is above that luminescence - I know it sounds like a dumb question, but that means that you also need to purchase a filter for every Surefire flashlight to save yourself when strobing? Thanks very much for your help! I'm in very unfamiliar waters here and your input is GREATLY appreciated!!!!!! you will be fine with a surefire LED hand held light like the old G2L Ive got over 3000rds fired with my G2 flashlight & viking tatics mount / lmt |
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