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9/24/2011 5:22:49 AM EDT
Working on a non AR,,but Nam retro era project and need ideas. I wanna hide some barrel markings and hope to come up with a way that does not require the entire barrel having to be reparked.
1) weld over the markings,file smooth,hit with  Norrels or (any ideas here????) to match
2) ball peen the marks out,file smooth,hit with Norrels or ??????  to match
3) can Norrels or ??? be dripped into the markings to level them out even with the surface of the barrel...Will this hold up???
Any thoughts or ideas welcome,,,TIA.
9/24/2011 5:44:38 AM EDT
[#1]
1) weld over the markings,file smooth,hit with Norrels or (any ideas here????) to match
2) ball peen the marks out,file smooth,hit with Norrels or ?????? to match


Either will probably be the easiest/cheapest way to remove markings permanently.

3) can Norrels or ??? be dripped into the markings to level them out even with the surface of the barrel...Will this hold up???

Probably won't hold up if you use it very much.  Gonna assume you're doing a sniper rifle.  You're the professional painter in the group so if anyone could do it,  it would probably be you.  Think you would want to do a little at a time until filled.  Gonna definately need everything real clean.

I've had some good luck peening bearing caps and moving a little metal but wouldn't say it was beautiful work.  Engines I did this to were usually used as spares but they did hold up.  Beat spending $1K's.  I know you are a nut for details but wondering why since it's not going to be politically correct, which doesn't sound right coming from you.  Guess it's the economic times.
9/24/2011 11:09:06 AM EDT
[#2]
Is it an M1 Carbine with that huge "BLUE SKY" stamp on it?

Anything you do is gonna look like ass unless you refinish the whole thing.

I have used soft solder on some things, and to my delight the solder parkerized also. (just took a bit longer in the tank)



Steve Wagner filled some pits on a Turk Mauser with epoxy and then used a bake on finish.

He has lots of other really cool tips and stuff if you go to his homepage.
9/24/2011 11:59:17 AM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
Working on a non AR,,but Nam retro era project and need ideas. I wanna hide some barrel markings and hope to come up with a way that does not require the entire barrel having to be reparked.
1) weld over the markings,file smooth,hit with  Norrels or (any ideas here????) to match
2) ball peen the marks out,file smooth,hit with Norrels or ??????  to match
3) can Norrels or ??? be dripped into the markings to level them out even with the surface of the barrel...Will this hold up???
Any thoughts or ideas welcome,,,TIA.


Sunday night I'm going to  attempt to fill some grinder marks that were on a early 604 upper I just got with several coats of Norrells, then block sand the area, recoat, block sand,  rebake and see how it does. Ill let you know how it goes.
9/24/2011 12:38:53 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Working on a non AR,,but Nam retro era project and need ideas. I wanna hide some barrel markings and hope to come up with a way that does not require the entire barrel having to be reparked.
1) weld over the markings,file smooth,hit with  Norrels or (any ideas here????) to match
2) ball peen the marks out,file smooth,hit with Norrels or ??????  to match
3) can Norrels or ??? be dripped into the markings to level them out even with the surface of the barrel...Will this hold up???
Any thoughts or ideas welcome,,,TIA.


Sunday night I'm going to  attempt to fill some grinder marks that were on a early 604 upper I just got with several coats of Norrells, then block sand the area, recoat, block sand,  rebake and see how it does. Ill let you know how it goes.

Thanks Brent,,please do keep me posted.

9/24/2011 12:42:39 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
Is it an M1 Carbine with that huge "BLUE SKY" stamp on it?   Oh Hell no Mike...Yuck yuck

Anything you do is gonna look like ass unless you refinish the whole thing. Well,I was able to remove via ball peen,the "fire" on a few 80%ers,but that was easy as they were flat surfaces.
I have used soft solder on some things, and to my delight the solder parkerized also. (just took a bit longer in the tank)



Steve Wagner filled some pits on a Turk Mauser with epoxy and then used a bake on finish. Thanks,I'll check this out
He has lots of other really cool tips and stuff if you go to his homepage.


9/24/2011 1:14:28 PM EDT
[#6]
Blue Sky ?  Wasn't that somekind of ointment ?


9/24/2011 1:18:05 PM EDT
[#7]
I have had good luck with JB Weld over the years.  Degrease thoroughly and apply release agent on anything you don't want epoxied.
9/24/2011 1:20:57 PM EDT
[#8]
I've seen this used on a shot gun receiver with good results.
9/24/2011 3:18:33 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
I've seen this used on a shot gun receiver with good results.


My uncle sent a rusted to hell and gone Winchester 1897 shotgun to a guy in Warner Robins, GA that specializes in Duracoating guns.  He used that stuff along with a ton of other tricks to make that old shotgun look almost brand new.  How well it'd hold up on a gun in actual use I have no idea.  My uncle just wanted to make his grandad's shotgun look better.  It now hangs on the wall in his den.

9/24/2011 3:46:04 PM EDT
[#10]
File and repark.

Norrells is too thin to do any good at filling. I've got a lower that has 7 coats of Norrells, and the trigger and hammer pins still go through the holes as if it was never done.
9/24/2011 4:32:17 PM EDT
[#11]
Peening out any kind of stampings or engraved markings doesn't work all that well. I do it when I'm remarking a screw up or some such.

+1 on the solder.
9/25/2011 4:06:29 AM EDT
[#12]
I've used something like JB Weld except it came out of 1 tube.
It mixed as you squeezed it out.
It was much easier to deal with.
I can't remember the manufacturer, but it was a well known one.
I want to say it was from Loctite.
I'll look and find out when I get home in a few days.
9/25/2011 6:00:23 AM EDT
[#13]
I had thought about using low temp solder as well. Im guessing a lot of flux paste and heat to get it to stick?
9/25/2011 12:06:12 PM EDT
[#14]
I shot a crapload of Moly Resin on this, and baked it. Block sanded lightly with worn out 600 grit and then shot it again. I then heated the crap out of the upper and shot one final coat from kind of far away which left the coat really rough after baking. It felt like sandpaper, but some buffing with a tshirt smoothed it all down.  The repair is VERY faint but looks pretty good, this camera is very unforgiving.

I did not sandblast the upper, just degreased and shot the resin. We will see how it holds up, gotta be better than krylon.

Fresh after oiling.

I don't know if this would fill anything deep.

9/25/2011 2:28:08 PM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
I shot a crapload of Moly Resin on this, and baked it. Block sanded lightly and then shot it again. I then heated the crap out of the upper and shot one final coat from kind of far away which left the coat really rough after baking. It felt like sandpaper, but some buffing with a tshirt smoothed it all down.  The repair is VERY faint but looks pretty good, this camera is very unforgiving.

I did not sandblast the upper, just degreased and shot the resin. We will see how it holds up, gotta be better than krylon.

Fresh after oiling.

I don't know if this would fill anything deep.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/b_rogers/IMG_4990.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/b_rogers/IMG_4991.jpg

Thanks Brent,,that actually looks like it came out pretty damn nice!

9/25/2011 2:44:39 PM EDT
[#16]
I would think hi-temp solder would be the way to go, but not sure how it'd take parkerizing. They use it for FH pinning...I won't tell you my experience with it - I'll leave that to Olgunner. Suffice it to say, we were unsuccessful, but we were trying to mount a FH, not just melt some solder into markings. I would wire brush the engravings first, maybe hit it with a little MEK, or at least alcohol or mineral spirits.
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