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Posted: 2/20/2026 12:05:19 AM EDT
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I'm starting this thread as a reference point for this specific combination. I find it to be an excellent quality trigger, particularly for AR22 builds. This combination gave me the most success among the FRTs I tried with 22 conversions. It's a very light, VERY crisp single stage cassette style drop in trigger which can be used with AR22 style uppers. You will need a trip in order to make your AR22 work with the Atrius, and Bore Buddy makes a dedicated trip for the Atrius, which does not have the adjustability needed to make sloppy Hoffman Super Safeties work. This combination is "certified" by Bore Buddy to run their 22 caliber uppers. https://atrius.dev/atrius-forced-reset-selector/ Rave 140 Atrius dedicated trip This combination also works in centerfire rifles, if single stage triggers are your thing. Personally, I prefer 2 stage triggers, so I don't use this very much in centerfire guns, but I can confirm that it works and is lightning fast.  " />
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The following is a copy and paste from a post I made some weeks ago in the big Atrius thread: I encountered something interesting with my lauded Atrius/Rave140 combo. I bought a third Rave, secondhand. I installed it in a gun with an Atrius. It did NOT pass the hammer down, swing the lever test. I swapped selectors and lowers around, until I confirmed that the second-hand Rave was indeed the common cause. When disassembling the suspect Rave, I encountered a difference in the hammer geometry near the sear. The good one has an asymmetrical cutout. The first image is a Rave/Atrius that works, and passes the test. The second one got stuck, as shown.  " /> " /> " />I do not know when the change in manufacture was made. They are externally marked the same. The one on the left (top) with the shorter tension springs is the bad one.  " />Here the good one is on the left, bad on the right:  " />
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An update on the "early" or "out of spec" Rave 140: It functions properly with a Cornfire MARC. It makes some sense that the Rave would have been designed to interface with a standard diameter safety, which the Cornfire was designed to have as an improvement over the Atrius. Here the "early" Rave 140 passes all function tests with a Cornfire MARC (November purchase): " />
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The Rave 140/Atrius combo worked for me as well. As did the Rave 140/Cornfire MARC combo. Both were drop-in with my AR 22 setup. That said, i can verify that the MARC is closer to spec than the Atrius with respect to safety barrel geometry, which may affect fitting with some trigger/lower combos. But the Rave 140 doesn't seem subject to these issues in my experience. I am using the older Adjustable Super Safety Trip Kit because the Atrius version was not yet available when I purchased mine. I am fairly certain the trip point of the newer, fixed kit is similar to/the same as the older, adjustable one with the #3-56 x 1/2" adjustment screw all the way in. Also, I was able to verify with Bore Buddy that the only difference between the Atrius Super Selektor Trip Kit and the ARC-FIRE Trip Kit is that the latter includes an ARC-FIRE Timing Advance Shim. The trips themselves are identical. I mention that in case you want to try or use both the ARC-FIRE or Atrius (or MARC) in your setup. You don't need to buy both. If you bought the one without the timing shim and want to try the ARC-FIRE, all you need is the shim. If you bought the one with the shim, you can use just the trip with the Atrius or MARC. |
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Originally Posted By glklvr: Knowing nothing about the Borebuddy 22 uppers, how similar they are they to Ceiner style uppers? If you're asking generally for use with FRTs, it might be worth asking in the Who here is using a FRT with a 22LR. What is your setup? thread. That one has many more eyeballs, and this one is targeted to a very specific combination of products. If yours is a general question (not specific to FRTs), consider starting a new thread in AR-15 / Rimfire and Pistol Calibers. |
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Originally Posted By sixers79: @ELittlefield @lugnutwrench2 Have any of you tried the Rave/ARC-FIRE combo with a shim-less Bore buddy Atrius/MARC trip kit? Interest is definitely piqued in going to get a Rave but not so much for an Atrius SS or Corny MARC I haven't. I wouldn't expect the ARC-Fire to work with a Rave, due to the requirement for a cut on normal triggers, but that's just speculation on my part. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I haven't. I wouldn't expect the ARC-Fire to work with a Rave, due to the requirement for a cut on normal triggers, but that's just speculation on my part. This. I don't even know how you'd cut a Rave 140 to work with an ARC-FIRE/Hoffman SS. I did try an ARC-FIRE very briefly in a system tuned for something else entirely, but didn't spend much time on it. I was pleasantly surprised that I was at least able to get bursts with it. Maybe I would have had better luck with the shim. |
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Originally Posted By JTX23: Does this work with the dedicated 22 uppers like CMMG and RighttoBear? Yes, as long as you use a trip of some kind like this:  " />Your bolt has a lip on it that the trip hooks around, and then the lever of your Atrius or Super Safety floats in that square opening. When the bolt closes, it pulls the trip forward, actuating the lever. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Yes, as long as you use a trip of some kind like this: https://i.imgur.com/LmOgbOV.jpeg" target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/LmOgbOV.jpeg Your bolt has a lip on it that the trip hooks around, and then the lever of your Atrius or Super Safety floats in that square opening. When the bolt closes, it pulls the trip forward, actuating the lever. Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By JTX23: Does this work with the dedicated 22 uppers like CMMG and RighttoBear? Yes, as long as you use a trip of some kind like this: https://i.imgur.com/LmOgbOV.jpeg" target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/LmOgbOV.jpeg Your bolt has a lip on it that the trip hooks around, and then the lever of your Atrius or Super Safety floats in that square opening. When the bolt closes, it pulls the trip forward, actuating the lever. The one you linked would work, correct? |
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Originally Posted By JTX23: The one you linked would work, correct? Originally Posted By JTX23: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By JTX23: Does this work with the dedicated 22 uppers like CMMG and RighttoBear? Yes, as long as you use a trip of some kind like this: https://i.imgur.com/LmOgbOV.jpeg" target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/LmOgbOV.jpeg Your bolt has a lip on it that the trip hooks around, and then the lever of your Atrius or Super Safety floats in that square opening. When the bolt closes, it pulls the trip forward, actuating the lever. The one you linked would work, correct? The Atrius specific trip that I linked in the OP will work with the Atrius selector and Rave 140, correct. You should make sure it's a recent production Rave, due to the issue discussed in my second post. |
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OK, I've pulled out what's left of my hair, and I need some help. I'm running the Atrius/Rave 140 combo, but I can't get it to run. First, my setup: CMMG Barrel and Collar Kit, 4.5" 8" suppressor (Form 1) CMMG dedicated .22LR bolt group Borebuddy 22lr Quiet Collar Buffer BoreBuddy bolt buffer Taccom .22 LR Pressure Plug Atrius Super Selektor Rise Armament Rave 140 Borebuddy Atrius Super Selektor Trip Kit Anti-bounce Bolt Weight (currently at 1.52 oz) Ammo: trying to get it to run on Minimag 40gr solids The gun has always run like a sewing machine, and still does...in semi. When I go to FRT, it's one round and dead trigger. Eject round, rinse and repeat. When I do manage to get FRT action, I get consistent 3 round bursts and then dead trigger. It's so consistent you'd think I had a 3-round burst selector. Once in a great while I might get 4 rounds, but then dead trigger. Subsonics are worse: one round and dead trigger. I'll get to those when I get it running on Minimags. I started with less weight in the anti-bounce weight, but conventional wisdom said "dead trigger = add more bolt weight," so I gradually added more. It's frustrating as hell. I feel like I'm close: every once in a while it teases me with a 3-round burst, but then back to one round, dead trigger, eject, one round, dead trigger, etc. I'd appreciate any thoughts or guidance anyone has. |
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Originally Posted By ScottS: OK, I've pulled out what's left of my hair, and I need some help. I'm running the Atrius/Rave 140 combo, but I can't get it to run. First, my setup: CMMG Barrel and Collar Kit, 4.5" 8" suppressor (Form 1) CMMG dedicated .22LR bolt group Borebuddy 22lr Quiet Collar Buffer BoreBuddy bolt buffer Taccom .22 LR Pressure Plug Atrius Super Selektor Rise Armament Rave 140 Borebuddy Atrius Super Selektor Trip Kit Anti-bounce Bolt Weight (currently at 1.52 oz) Ammo: trying to get it to run on Minimag 40gr solids The gun has always run like a sewing machine, and still does...in semi. When I go to FRT, it's one round and dead trigger. Eject round, rinse and repeat. When I do manage to get FRT action, I get consistent 3 round bursts and then dead trigger. It's so consistent you'd think I had a 3-round burst selector. Once in a great while I might get 4 rounds, but then dead trigger. Subsonics are worse: one round and dead trigger. I'll get to those when I get it running on Minimags. I started with less weight in the anti-bounce weight, but conventional wisdom said "dead trigger = add more bolt weight," so I gradually added more. It's frustrating as hell. I feel like I'm close: every once in a while it teases me with a 3-round burst, but then back to one round, dead trigger, eject, one round, dead trigger, etc. I'd appreciate any thoughts or guidance anyone has. Your post suggests you had this running at one time. If that's true, what changed? What weights are you currently using? What recoil spring? How dirty is it? What happens when you change to 36 or 38 gr supers (the hotter the better)? (For me, 38 gr Ranch Hand was almost as good as Velocitors or Stingers for diagnostics, but much cheaper and stocked at my local Bass Pro.) Are your 40 gr Mini-Mags supersonic or subsonic at exit? Is that consistent? |
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A couple items I'd try: 1. Try it without the quiet collar buffer. Several people reported issues using it with a SS or FRT 2. Try different recoil spring weights. BB offered a kit you can use to tune it. That's where I would start if I were you. The rest of your setup including ammo sounds good. Also keep in mind when testing the shorter the barrel the less weight you typically need, many 4.5 inch setups require little to no additional bolt weight. |
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: Your post suggests you had this running at one time. If that's true, what changed? What weights are you currently using? What recoil spring? How dirty is it? What happens when you change to 36 or 38 gr supers (the hotter the better)? (For me, 38 gr Ranch Hand was almost as good as Velocitors or Stingers for diagnostics, but much cheaper and stocked at my local Bass Pro.) Are your 40 gr Mini-Mags supersonic or subsonic at exit? Is that consistent? I can try hotter ammo, but I'm actually trying to go the other way: it's suppressed and I want it to run subsonic ammo. |
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Originally Posted By TheFaz: A couple items I'd try: 1. Try it without the quiet collar buffer. Several people reported issues using it with a SS or FRT 2. Try different recoil spring weights. BB offered a kit you can use to tune it. That's where I would start if I were you. The rest of your setup including ammo sounds good. Also keep in mind when testing the shorter the barrel the less weight you typically need, many 4.5 inch setups require little to no additional bolt weight. I'll also try removing bolt weight. It seems counter-intuitive to the conventional wisdom ("Dead trigger means more bolt weight"), but what do I have to lose? |
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Originally Posted By ScottS: It was never running in FRT (at least more than the occasional 3-round burst.) It always ran (pre-FRT) in semi mode, and it still does. I can try hotter ammo, but I'm actually trying to go the other way: it's suppressed and I want it to run subsonic ammo. Originally Posted By ScottS: Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: Your post suggests you had this running at one time. If that's true, what changed? What weights are you currently using? What recoil spring? How dirty is it? What happens when you change to 36 or 38 gr supers (the hotter the better)? (For me, 38 gr Ranch Hand was almost as good as Velocitors or Stingers for diagnostics, but much cheaper and stocked at my local Bass Pro.) Are your 40 gr Mini-Mags supersonic or subsonic at exit? Is that consistent? I can try hotter ammo, but I'm actually trying to go the other way: it's suppressed and I want it to run subsonic ammo. Sorry, I thought you were asking for advice (which I can't give without knowing more, which is why I asked those questions). It sounds like you're already settled on a particular approach. I hope it works for you. If you get stuck, feel free to piece together my experience getting subs to run reliably out of my suppressed 7" from my various posts in the Who here is using a FRT with a 22LR. What is your setup? thread. Good luck! |
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: Sorry, I thought you were asking for advice (which I can't give without knowing more, which is why I asked those questions). It sounds like you're already settled on a particular approach. I hope it works for you. If you get stuck, feel free to piece together my experience getting subs to run reliably out of my suppressed 7" from my various posts in the Who here is using a FRT with a 22LR. What is your setup? thread. Good luck! |
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Did you ever get it running? I'm in thr same boat as you. Suppressed 4.5" ar22 with Atrius Super Selector, a Milspec schmid trigger and a BB adjustable super safety trip (not the atrius specific model). With just the empty weight kit, my hammer doesn't reset. Took off the weight entirely and then added a JP reduced power spring. I got a couple of 2-3 Rd bursts, but often I just get a single shot and the reduced power spring introduced light primer strkes. Plan on ordering the bolt spring kit from BB, but was curious if you found any other solution. |
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Originally Posted By BlackedOut: Did you ever get it running? I'm in thr same boat as you. Suppressed 4.5" ar22 with Atrius Super Selector, a Milspec schmid trigger and a BB adjustable super safety trip (not the atrius specific model). With just the empty weight kit, my hammer doesn't reset. Took off the weight entirely and then added a JP reduced power spring. I got a couple of 2-3 Rd bursts, but often I just get a single shot and the reduced power spring introduced light primer strkes. Plan on ordering the bolt spring kit from BB, but was curious if you found any other solution.  Atrius Forced Reset Selector - How I Tune My Configuration another area you may be binding the lever is in the auto sear pocket cut. if it's not in spec, the lever can crash into the lip. You should be able to feel this when cycling the bolt, you should also see ware/shiny spots in the anodizing where the lever is impacting in the auto sear pocket assuming it is... My set up is also 4.5" suppressed, OG bore buddy super safety trip. I'm using the aluminum weight housing with one large/small steel weight and one large/small aluminum weight for Brrrt BUT it would cycle with the SS housing full of steel weights.... just not Brrrt consistently. this is shooting bulk pack 1200'ish fps 22lr. I also use the full set of KVP reduced power springs. hammer, trigger, disco, zero ignition issues. I suspect your light strike are not spring related, bolt bounce related would be my guess... Edit: I forgot to mention... make sure the trip can move freely, it will have a small amount of friction but should move easily and smoothly. I have an RTB dedicated 22lr upper thats a little snug on tolerance. The bolt and trip will slid in but the trip drags enough to cause function issues so I don't use this upper for FRT. |
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I installed the older Rave 140 in my 458 SOCOM, with a Cornfire MARC. Perfect function, though rather stout recoil. I won’t be shooting this much, just wanted a nice single stage trigger with the option for an occasional giggle switch. And I thought it would be neat to use a Tromix buffer with my Tromix upper. Attached File Attached File |
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