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Posted: 4/5/2011 6:30:22 PM EDT
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Playing around trying the trigger job described here at JunkYardGenius website. The set screw bottems out against the trigger, but never trips the hammer. Hammer wont reset with setscrew this far in. If I back out set screw a turn or two, then it's back to normal function, try again, same thing, never trips the trigger as he describes. This is on a factory Bushmaster. Does anyone know if this is a peculiarity of the Bushmaster trigger group or am I the only one to experience this?
For now, set screw removed and all is well. I was just seeing what improvements could be made for nothing and this is the first thing I've tinkered with. So far no improvement. 
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The best way to do a "cheapskate" trigger job is either cutting one of the hammer spring legs in half or bending them. Made a very stiff gritty trigger into something I would pay $100 for. I also smoothed the surfaces but that isnt something that you should not take lightly as you could made a machine gun out of it.
I wouldn't recommend the set screw thing because how do you know its not going to move into a position that will screw everything up. |
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I wouldn't recommend the set screw thing because how do you know its not going to move into a position that will screw everything up. Blue locktite? That's his recommendation on that anyway, what I was planning on if I liked the results. Figured I would need to remove trigger and setscrew if I like the results, clean it all with alcohol to get the oil out of it in that precise spot, as I've seen that as you say, if that screw moves it will screw everything up. Figured get it all set up working, disassemble, clean, reset, locktite let it set up before lubing it all back up good and finishing. I don't know if it's a good mod or not, saw a thread here last week that said it was a great way to improve the trigger so thought it was worth looking at... till it didn't work for me. lol On the website for the mod, he makes a pretty good case for not smoothing the surfaces and taking off the hardening coating. Think I'd buy a drop in trigger that would be better before I went that route... but what do I know, I'm a newbie to this game no doubt. |
Hmmmm, that's the same trigger slop removal technique I posted over ten years ago under my old user name...cool! 
There are a few checks for safely setting the position of the grub screw: 1) advance the set screw until the hammer releases, and then back it off a half turn. 2) Once that is done, manually cock the hammer, and then make sure your selector will freely go to "safe". If it won't, then you need to continue to back off on the grub screw until it can. This is the slack you are attempting to remove. Do NOT remove material from the selector, hammer, or disco. 3) With the hammer manually cocked again, release the trigger while your thumb is resting on the hammer. Allow the hammer to slowly advance against your thumb, making sure that the hammer isn't binding on the disco hook while it releases. The quick and dirty check to see if this will do anything for you is to manually cock the hammer and put the selector on safe. Once on safe, see if there is any trigger movement. If there is, that slop can be eliminated without reducing sear engagement to a dangerous level. Back in the day I had diagrams and pics for doing this, but ended up taking it all down for liability reasons. Some boneheads were taking it too far, creating a potentially unsafe condition with their rifles. I didn't want any part of that nonsense. Someone always had to go too far...
ETA: The original intent was to create a fully adjustable, removable version of this: 
With certain triggers it worked very well. ETAA: I would hope that it goes without saying that this mod is for range guns-not a defensive weapon. |
| In my opinion scary at the least. What are you trying to accomplish? Trying to get rid of a little creep maybe? My Bushmaster FCG's have been okay. Plenty of better ways to do a budget trigger job and a set screw in the pistol grip screw hole isn't one of them. Be careful. |
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I've been using the method described in the original post for some time now. The set screw works and has not moved in over 500 rounds so far.
The way I did it was: 1. Remove the pistol grip 2. Screw the set screw in until it bottomed out on the trigger with the safety on. Then back the screw out 1/4 of a turn. (the trigger will not move at all with the safety on, but the safety will move freely without any binding) 3. Check for function (ensured that the hammer drops, the trigger resets properly, and the safety works). 4. After function is confirmed, I removed the set screw and cleaned the hole and screw with rubbing alclohol to remove and oil residue. 5. Apply red Loctite to the hole and set screw. 6. Re-assemble just like i did the first time and check function. 7. I then removed the trigger assembly so I could clean out any loctite that made it's way into the receiver. 8. I put everything back together, allow the loctite time to set and cure before firing and it's been great since. I also used a dremel to lightly polish the trigger engagement surfaces. Just polished, not removed any of the case hardening. It greatly improved the creepy and gritty stock trigger. I used the same method on a friend's bushmaster with identical results. |
| I've done versions of this on both of my ar's and one for a friend. Proper care and adjustment, some stoning and polishing and suitable spring selection and all three triggers are excellent. They've been through at least a thousand rounds each since the change, my first one is probably around 2.5k since. No issues, regular inspection shows no developing problems with the mating surfaces. |
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Lesson learned, I'd say. 
Don't be putting set screws where they aren't intended to go. . . yea that may be the best answer to it all I used the set screw and mine works great.  I have been asked at the range if I had some sort of battle trigger (big smile on their face). I say "Nope, just a set screw." 
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I've done this mod to all my AR's. It has never created an issue. One rifle has over 12K through it.
Makes the take up much shorter which gives the feel of a better trigger. Shoot it. It will smooth itself out. Plus there are manufacturers out there now that are threading the holes completely through now or even adding a seperate threaded hole for this purpose. But again, do it at your own risk. Some guys can screw up the simplest mods. Dave N. |
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I wondered why more people don't do this mod; I didn't know someone had posted instructions. I got the idea from installing a Jard trigger that does the same thing.
The benefit you get is minimal. If you put the screw too high (take out travel) it'll eventually interfere with the safety. That's where I set mine, just enough to clear the safety. You quickly realize that you could take a ton of creep out by doing this and removing some material from the safety. I'm not brave enough to try it, and please don't go home and try it yourself. It's just an interesting way to learn about the trigger group. ETA: AAGGGH that guy on the site recommends grinding away the part of your trigger that interferes with the safety exactly how I said! Danger Will Robinson! Please don't do this. At that point, you're trashing your trigger and would have been better off either having a smith do it or just buying a good trigger. |
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