AR Sponsor
Posted: 12/27/2004 3:20:04 PM EDT
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Has any one ever tried this. Is so did did you have to chop the barrel to get past the stepped crown or could you thread it and keep the stepped crown. Also how far did the threads go from the end of the barrel? Matt Carper |
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Hey Matt, I had my 16" threaded, but it's a different animal from the bull barrelled versions. (HBAR instead of bull) I don't see any reason you couldn't thread an 18 or 24" bull barrel...you'd just have to take more material off the diameter while it's on the lathe. I'm not sure about the amount of material you'd have to turn off...the bull barrels are .975" IIRC, and the Vortex is threaded for 5/8--close to 3/8"total would have to come off...ah screw it. I'm getting the calipers out...brb. OK...my .308 Vortex is .905"outside diameter, or less than the outside diameter of the bull barrel. My smith turned down exactly 1/2" from the end of the barrel for threads. If you don't mind the f/s being smaller than the diameter of your barrel, go for it. I believe you could get away with not recrowning the muzzle, because you're not removing that much material. But since it's already at the smith's, have 'em check to ensure the rifling is still square with the muzzle. My smith did mine just in case he damaged anything during the lathe work. (I've heard you can do the same job with a ball bearing and some valve lapping compound....I'm WECSOG, but not that WECSOG) You shouldn't really need the extreme recessed crown (as long as the rifling to muzzle is square!) because you'll have the f/s protecting the muzzle. Something to think about before putting a muzzle device on a DPMS--some people have noticed a decreace in accuracy after installation. (And some have found the opposite or no change...depends on how professional the installation and crowning and personal perception I guess...YMMV...I didn't notice any change with mine) Personally, I wouldn't put a f/s on a DPMS bull barrel unless I planned to turn the whole barrel down to same or slightly smaller diameter than the muzzle device so it looks more like it belongs that way...just my opinion. If you go thru with the plan, remember to post pics! |
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I am not thinking Flash Hider...I am thinking suppressor. I am in my kick of building a mk11 mod 0 for a whole hell of a lot less than $7000.00, and having the same accuracy. Its no SR-25 but it is about $4000.00 back in my pocket. This is a pic of the gun so far, I have made a few mods since this pic but not many. I am a bit worried about the flutes causing a problem when it comes to threading the barrel.  Matt Carper |
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Matt, it depends how far up the flutes go. If you can get around 5/8" long thread you should be O.K. I talked to one of the suppressor people and mentioned the 3/4 length of thread that the factory put on the carbine (AR10) barrel that I have and they said it would be O.K. You might check with who ever you were going to get the suppressor from and see what type of thread detail they need before doing anything. The barrel threading I have done, I use an aluminum plug with a center in it. The plug fits the inside of the barrel very close, also it will not damage the rifling. I think most smiths do it this way. If you go to get a recrown then you have to run the barrel in a steady rest to work on the end of it. Since your barrel is fluted, that will be a little more of a problem, by having to make a sleeve in order to run it in a steady rest. I would think that if the gun is shooting fine, do not mess with the crown, and whoever threads the barrel should be able to do it without damaging the crown. hope this helps, Art |
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