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3/5/2007 12:07:38 PM EDT
I have a cmmg trigger in two lowers (not select fire). I did the search for trigger info but didn't find what I was looking for. Brownells has a process listed in bench talk about using a fine india stone to polish trigger parts to improve your trigger. This process is done on a JP trigger. Anyone read this? I'm no gunsmith or machinist but would like to try this. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/NewsletterArchive.aspx?p=0&t=1&i=35
Let me know what you think!
3/5/2007 12:22:31 PM EDT
[#1]
I've done a few of these jobs around here...no complaints yet. They seem to love what it does for them.
3/5/2007 1:33:37 PM EDT
[#2]

Let me know what you think!


I think screwing around with triggers with sandpaper/stones/set screws,etc is just asking for reliability issues and malfunctions and is not going to make you a better shooter.. I think going out and practicing the basic fundamentals of Marksmanship  is what will make you a better shooter, that and shooting a lot..

You asked...
3/5/2007 3:50:56 PM EDT
[#3]
Thanks for the diagram! I dont think i'll go into the whole drill and tap part sounds a little over my head. I really just want to clean things up enough to smooth it out. I could just buy an upgraded trigger but I thought the process in the Brownells ad looked pretty easy.
3/5/2007 4:03:02 PM EDT
[#4]
Arang,  one of the other little tricks is to take accurate measurments along the way.  Reassemble the trigger and weigh it, then see the progress. Plan to take apart and feel the trigger many many times during this project.  Go slow, do a little and try it out.  Do a little more etc, it will be right, and you will have learned a heck of a lot. Do very little to the contact areas, and even less to those that don't!  If you think about the process, only the contact areas support the weight of pull you feel.  Any bumps and drags you feel must be in those areas.  Be extra sure to keep the opposing surfaces square and parallel.

A thought; (as example only)

A critical part I left out!   Oh damn...  The rounded bottom part of the hammer which curves up and meets the sear surface is where any metal should be taken if the need to reduce the contact surfaces is present.  the polish only areas are the actual contact surfaces of the sear.  I hope that is understandable.

                                         If you have .015 of sear engagement and a weight of 5 lbs to break the sear... .010 will not necessarily be 3 lbs and clean.  May still be 4.5 lbs but it should break cleaner.  If the surfaces have too little contact, the hammer could follow, and that would not be good!
3/5/2007 4:44:07 PM EDT
[#5]
Messing with the surface hardening is a bad idea.
3/5/2007 4:49:41 PM EDT
[#6]
Thats why your only polishing the surfaces not cutting them down. Mine have held up for years without wear on the surfaces.
and if you'd rather just but a similar setup...Midway has this one.
3/5/2007 5:43:34 PM EDT
[#7]
I guess you could say the jury is still out, but whenever I have stoned and polished
hammer, sear surfaces to the point where I think I might have gone a little to
deep, I use Kasenet surface hardening compound. I can only guess how much it's helped, but I've never had a problem with the triggers i've done. Cheer's
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