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Posted: 3/20/2007 7:48:42 PM EDT
| Ok well i have no clue what i am getting into here but i am thinking about building my own ar. I know nothing about this but i know that the only rifles like these that locals shops carry run for 1400, it is the M&P line of rifle. I love the way they look but cant afford those. What do i need to know for a build and what is good stuff and not so good stuff. I need your ar knowledge here as i know nothing. Im also thinking about buying some left handed stuff and building one for my dad. how much is a good build that is going to be reliable and not malfunction. links to parts and access is a plus please |
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You can't go wrong with about anything from del-ton.The barrels are the same ones rock river arms Uses. www.del-ton.com As far as the left hand Ar As far as Iknow the only ones who make Lefty aR15S are Stag arms./www.stagarms.com I have usedDel-ton on the two builds I have done.Great prices and service. Good luck. |
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Start with a preassembled upper. That way you don't have to deal with headspacing and so-on. RRA, Stag (for lefty), Bushmaster, armalite all make great uppers that you can buy assembled. Finding a lower right now might be a little difficult, but CMT or RRA would be my choice. Then you just need a lower parts kit, grip and stock assembly. There are also co. that make complete rifle kits minus the lower for as low as 500 bucks. Everything except the lower can be shipped direct to your door. The lower has to go through a FFL dealer. Exect to pay 25-35 bucks for them to do the paperwork. Good luck 
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so if i buy this from STAG Stag-15 Complete Upper Half with Carry Handle Model 1H Pre-Ban MSRP $545.00 what else would i need... i know you all talk about lowers and a parts kit but what else... would this complete the rifle if i bought this from RRA Complete Lower Half / Standard Trigger / 6-Position Tactical CAR Stock it is 290 |
| You wouldn't "need" any other parts. Just put the two halves together and you are done!! I might sugggest that you look at the RRA uppers. I know you need a stag for Dad, but RRA uppers can be customized more for that look you want. Also, just know that RRA lowers to fit tighter than others. That is a good thing!! |
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so i went to the PK firearms link that is at the top of the page and they have RRA uppers that look good.. can this one be customized and is it a good upper for the price?? Rock River Arms Chrome Lined CAR A2 Complete Upper Rock River Arms 16" Wilson chrome lined barrel with 5.56 NATO chamber and 1/9 twist rate. Carbine handguards and steel front sight tower with bayonet lug. A2 Carry Handle Receiver. Complete with bolt and forged charging handle. Our Price: $490.00 |
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$290 seems a little high for a complete lower, unless that includes shipping and transfer fees (don't forget that you need to have it shipped to an FFL!) RBPrecision has decent prices on complete lowers. They carry RRA, Stag Arms, and Superior Arms. I have two Superior Arms lowers from them and really like them. I chose to save a few bucks going with SA for the lowers, but you wouldn't have to go that route. The first one was a complete lower shipped for $225+20 to my FFL for the transfer. The second one I picked up was a stripped SA lower for $91 shipped + 20 to my FFL for the transfer. I also picked up the RBPrecision LPK for $55 and a Stag Arms stock, buffer, spring, and receiver extension. I don't remember the price of the stock, I got it from DSGArms for around $80 or $90 because I wanted a mil-spec stock. My complete lower had a RRA stock on it, which is a $65 option from RBPrecision. If you would be comfortable assembling the lower, you could save a few bucks buying the parts seperately. I felt better about putting the lower together on my second lower. I don't know if there are any Stag Arms or RRA lowers in stock at RBPrecion or not. I used Del-Ton uppers on both of mine and they are nice, but no lefty options. eta: Eagle Firearms usually has good prices on Stag uppers. |
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Go to the RRA website. Cick on the "caliber" you want on the left side (rifles and complete uppers are under the same button). That will take you to the next screen where you can select "upper". Once in that part you can customize the upper. If you want to know what on of their options looks like, you can find them in the accesories links off of the main buttons to the left. Add up your MSRP w/option codes and then call Pete at Legal transfers LLC. @ 603-770-2281 or e-mail @ [email protected] I have done business with him he is very helpful and has the best price. Not all but most options he will discount significantly. He might even help you get a lower faster & definitely cheaper (he is a RRA premier dealer). Check out his feedback in th EE- he has been in here since the begining!! |
Makes a big difference in the amount of cleaning from what I have read. I have both, but haven't shot much. Most people indicate you can wait 200 rounds or more for a chrome lined barrel before cleaning. The Chrome Moly barrels require more frequent cleanings and a breakin period. |
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what do you all think about ameetec sets?? they have this upper and this lower on sale.. are they good and would it make a good rifle UPPER http://www.ameetecarms.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=55 LOWER http://www.ameetecarms.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=11 I have no clue, but it says its an M4 is that different than an ar or are they the same thing |
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Under the Equipment Exchange, read the "Feedback ONLY" forum posts before you go with a vendor. I'll put in a plug for Pete at Legal Transfers (http://www.ar15sales.com). He's also an armorer and very knowledgeable. I just got a Stag upper in from him, drop-shipped from Stag Arms, ordered through Legal Transfers. Fits my DPMS lower quite well. If you order lowers online, keep in mind that stocks seem to be very low. Many people are complaining about longggg delivery wait times for their lowers. I opted to go with a local shop that had a stripped lower and lower parts kit for $200 total, and there were no FFL transfer fees like you'd have if you bought out-of-state. Rock River Arms stuff is very backlogged cause they're so popular. Stag is not, because they're not as well-known. $200 for lower and parts $70 for collapsible stock (CAA brand with storage area) $489 for Stag Upper $50 to buy several magazines $12 for roll pin punch set $10 for a lightweight hammer $40 for ammunition It starts to add up fast. her |
Ameetec is good stuff. Right now i think they are they are back ordered, but if you don't mind waiting a while then you're ok. There are several thing to take into account when building your first AR. 1. It doesn't matter what lower you get as long as it is forged and made by a well know manufacturer. Most of your decisions come with the upper. 2. Do you want the integral carry handle (A2) or would I like a flat top (A3) to make it easier to mount optics to? The carry handle on a A2 has a built-in rear sight, if you go with an A3, you will have to buy your own (think about $100+/-) 3. What barrel length do you want? Any barrel less than 16" long has to be registered as a short barreled rifle and a $200 tax stamp paid. So it is best if you start with 16" or longer. On the barrel I would recomend getting it chrome lined. It increases the life of the barrel and as stated above, make cleaning easier. Chrome lining is done on the inside of the barrel and chamber. It is not cosmetic. 4. What barrel profile do you want? Basically, how thick do you want your barrel. Here is where I'll answer your question about what makes a M4, a M4. M4 is a military designation for what basically boils down to a M16 with a 14.5" barrel with a slot cut in it to mount a M203 grenade launcher, cuts (basically feed ramps) in the reciever and barrels that allow the rounds to chamber more reliably and a collapsable stock. As far as the nuts and bolts of the gun, the M16 and M4 are basically the same thing. Good luck bro! Welcome to the true meaning of addiction... |
Thats where I got my upper and it is great and its in Winchester KY ordered it Tue had it Wed just remember you will have to pay state tax. Also Centerfire arms has the Doublestar lowers got mine there a couple of weeks ago also in the Winchester area. |
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+1 on either getting a complete upper and lower and just snapping em together--check the EE/ind board (Stag lower+stag upper, complete=top AR for under $700) or, get the kit from del-ton or JTD (customizable also) just read around and check the build it yourself thread on top CL will also provide longer bbl life |
so if i buy a complete kit, such as http://jtdistributing.net/store/product1620.html or this one http://jtdistributing.net/store/product1617.html are these good quality componenets that will last a long time... now is this a complete rifle or will i still need to get stuff?? also do they come built or will i have to do this, as i have no tools for this |
You need to have a stripped lower to go with the kit. The kit is the complete upper, buttstock assembly, and lower parts kit. The only tools you may need is a few pin punches. I cannot remember if I used them on my lower receiver or not. You do need a 1/4" hex driver (I think) for the pistol grip. I bought a set of Craftsman with 7 or 8 T handled hex drivers. You could use a wrench for the castle nut, but you can use a punch/screwdriver and a hammer to tighten it up. I'm sure they are of good quality. I bought from Del-Ton originally, and don't laugh, because their site looked more professional than some of the others. The J&T site just turned me off because of the layout and all of the black. I have learned that the Del-Ton uppers are decent. I cannot comment on other brands, though. J&T is also a supporter of this site and many have ordered from them, so I would say you would get good quality. |
The lower should be easy, just call some of the vendors and see what is actually in stock. I hear the amount of lowers available is thining out a little. Once you know what is available, you can then ask if it is of a good quality. Most people will say the following are decent lowers: Bushmaster, Stag, RRA, DPMS, DoubleStar, Ameetec, Global Tactical, and many others. I have two Superior Arms that get the job done. Some put them on a lower level. The finish may not be quite as good as some of the others, but they have a consistent finish without blemishes. Uppers come from many manufacturers and most are good quality also. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from Del-Ton, CMMG, RRA, Bushmaster, and most other places. Also, many dealers sell some of the the different brands. PKFirearms has Bushmaster, RRA, DPMS, LMT, and Sabre Defense; the last two being a higher quality from what I've read. You really need to decide what exactly you want your rifle for, determine the barrel profile (lightweight, heavy barrel, bull barrel, M4 barrel, 16" or 18" or 20" or 24"), type of upper (A2, flatttop, etc), and accessories that you may want to add (to determine if you need a railed handguard). Then, you can search for vendors that offer it. CMMG, while being pricey, has most options you would want. Del-Ton also has a lot of options. So do some homework: 1. Find out who has lowers available and report back which ones you are interested in. 2. Decide on the purpose of the AR, decide on a barrel profile, and report back here. Then, someone will be able to give you advice on your lower choices and offer suggestions for an upper or kit. I would suggest either an M4 profile upper or a lightweight upper for you first AR. |
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Same as buying a PC, lots of choices, but only a few specifications really matter. The important specs are caliber (start with 5.56), barrel length (16 or 20 inch, no wrong choice here), gas system (short or mid-length if you select a 16 inch barrel), front sight/gas block (fixed or back-up or neither), and muzzle device (legal compliance issues are important here for FS versus MB). Now for the optional stuff. The name brand on the lower defines the rifle, so I'd recommend sticking with one of the more popular brands. Go to the Industry section and look for the amount of activity in each brand's section. It's just a hint. Whether you get a stripped lower, or a complete lower depends on your skill and confidence level. For a first rifle, I'd STRONGLY recommend a complete lower. That will minimize problems if they occur. Things like buttstocks, sights and forends are the icing. For a first rifle, get the fixed buttstock or the simple collapsible that comes with a complete lower. Upgrade from there when able. Go with the basic plastic forend, upgrade when able. Every other option is just for fun (unless you're a "serious operator", and given your questions, that's not the case). Most of the advice here is sound. There are better values among some brands, but you won't get something for nothing. Avoid the rot-gut bottom-feeder brands and you'll have a long and happy relationship. C97 |
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ok well as for the lower im not sure yet.. but i know this is what i want on the rifle.. im thinking a 16" barrel i have no clue what type of barrel i think you said heavy or bull or a few or more types not sure what that means. Also i want to be able to add a scope of some sort, but still have the iron sights (is that possible), and a light.. thats for now |
Bull barrels are really heavy and larger in diameter, not as useful for most people. Heavy barrels are around an inch in diameter under the handguards and 0.750" from the fornt sight block out. they are heavy but managable if you had to carry it for awhile. Lightweight are usually .625" under the handguards with a larger area just before the FSB to hold the handguard cap in place, then back to .625" out to the flash hider. I like this the best do to the easy of carrying. The M4 is similar to the lightweight but it is .750" from the FSB out. It also has a reduction in the barrel for the M203 grenade launcher. It is also a good weight to choose. If you get a light, you may want to get a free float railed handuard at the time you order the upper. It will be easier than adding it later. You can also go with a railed handguard replacement to replace the plastic handguards. You can add a scope and rear sight, as long as the scope mount clears the BUIS. You can get quick disconnect mounts that hold zero if you need to use the BUIS. A quality red dot optic will allow you to use both at the same time if you wanted to or one or the other. Most red dots are not magnified by themselves. I went the complete upper and complete lower for my first AR and it was easy as previously mentioned. Just line up the front of the lower with the corresponding lug of the upper and push the pin in. Then rock the back into place and push a pin in. The second one I put the LPK in, still seemed very easy. Although I didn't launch any springs or detents. |
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