AR Sponsor
Posted: 11/30/2015 3:00:38 PM EDT
|
Hi All,
I'm new to the DIY arena and I have done quite a bit of reading but I want to ensure that I have the process understood correctly for installing a new barrel, gas block, flash hider and free float handguard on an upper receiver. I am going to be using a Midwest Industries handguard on a 14.5" 300 BLK barrel with a pinned and welded flash hider (Surefire) and lo-pro gas block. I am going to have Adco do the pin/weld job, but what I don't fully understand from my research is the correct order to install the barrel parts. It seems as though the gas block needs to go on AFTER the barrel is installed in order to install the gas tube, but the block needs to be installed BEFORE the flash hider is pinned and welded. Adco does dimpling and pinning of the blocks, but pinning it seems confusing because would that not be completed too early in the process? I'm a bit confused. My questions: could someone give me a brief rundown of the general order to install these parts and also provide a recommendation for what portions of the process I should have done by Adco? Also, a gas block recommendation would be great as well. Thanks so much! Tim |
|
If you're going to have Adco do some of the work you might as well have them assemble the entire thing. If they are already doing the p&w for you they will need the nut and gas block anyway.
If not though essentially everything goes on from chamber end to muzzle end first. First the nut, then the gas block, then the FH. What you're missing is that these things need to merely be ON the barrel, not necessarily put in place permanently yet. So you slide the nut on, likely a proprietary piece if you are using a freefloat rail. Then on goes the gas block but don't set it in place yet. Finally install the FH and have it p&w'd. Remember that your FFHG will have to be of a diameter than it can clear the gas block, and make sure its mounting method plays nice with the GB as well; some that mount to a standard nut have inner stuff that won't pass over such things. Most slide on then clamp to the nut which is easiest. I really like the Diamondheads for their nuts as a standard open-end wrench can be used, or the Midwest Industries come with their own nut wrench, and both are open end to end and will clear FHs and GBs. I'm sure others do too but be sure to know before you get that far. |
| Thanks, this makes a lot of sense now. I will probably run a Midwest Ind gas block if I can verify that this is a good option for 300 BLK (I believe it will be fine). So, I will need to send Adco the proprietary MI barrel nut, gas block, barrel and flash hider, correct? They will slip the barrel nut, then gas block loosely on the barrel, then pin and weld the flash hider and send it back, then I'm good to move on from there? This is making more sense now... thank you. |
|
You can fully install the gas block unless your rail has some weird requirements.
The gas tube is normally installed after the barrel is inserted into the upper and the barrel nut is properly torqued. The gas tube is first inserted fully into the upper then rotated down and pulled forward to insert into the gas block. Align the gas tube holes with the gas block hole and tap in the 1/16" roll pin with a roll pin punch. Then you can slide the rail portion over everything and tighten it down. |
|
i used these videos from Brownells to put my entire AR together. It might help you out also.
Brownells AR assembly Videos |
AR Sponsor