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Who here is using a FRT with a 22LR. What is your setup? (Page 3 of 11)
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Originally Posted By jtb33: What effect does the .22LR recoil spring have, yellow, versus red, versus stock? Originally Posted By jtb33: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I eventually got mine running by switching the recoil spring to the Bore Buddy Yellow one, and installing a 22 bolt catch. I lock the bolt open, insert a magazine, and use the bolt release to close it. https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/Help-me-get-my-FRT-15L3-working-with-a-Bore-Buddy-22-upper-I-m-most-of-the-way-there-/130-791481/?r=-1&page=1&anc=8756029#i8756029 They're different weights. Bore Buddy offers 3 pound, 4 pound, and 6 pound springs in a kit. I don't recall which one is stock off the top of my head. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: They're different weights. Bore Buddy offers 3 pound, 4 pound, and 6 pound springs in a kit. I don't recall which one is stock off the top of my head. |
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Originally Posted By jtb33: Right - I have all of them, but I'm asking what the effect is of using the different strength springs on the firing system. I’m curious as well, specific to FRTs, since I’m building a dedicated .22 specifically for FRTs use. I know typically, people use a lighter spring for SV or subsonic ammo to improve reliability while shooting those suppressed. Not sure if there is more to it than that with an FRT setup. I see a lot of complaints of bolt bounce and dead triggers (timing issues). |
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Originally Posted By jtb33: Right - I have all of them, but I'm asking what the effect is of using the different strength springs on the firing system. Originally Posted By jtb33: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: They're different weights. Bore Buddy offers 3 pound, 4 pound, and 6 pound springs in a kit. I don't recall which one is stock off the top of my head. Oh. It just changes the recoil profile, to get the bolt closed and not bouncing when the hammer falls. I can't prescribe whether to go heavier or lighter. I just changed them, trial and error until I found a combination of parts that works. |
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Originally Posted By jtb33: Right - I have all of them, but I'm asking what the effect is of using the different strength springs on the firing system. Stock/factory is 5 pounds. Spring rating is for tuning different velocity ammo and barrel length from what I’ve read. Also helps with bolt bounce as does the different weight buffers. You have to just experiment and see which setup runs in your particular gun. My CMMG 16” M4 clone seems to like the stainless body and all 4 stainless weights and the stock (5 pound) recoil spring. |
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Just a FYI. One issue that I have had with my 22 frt setup has been the borebuddy adjustable weight set. The screws that hold the end plate on that holds the weights in come loose and cause malfunctions. It will cause dead trigger issues just like bolt bounce. I think the end plate being loose effects the dead blow of the weights. I have used blue loctite and they held tight much longer but came loose again. I see that they now have a gen4 adjustable weight set and they have apparently done away with the screws and it appears to now use a roll pin. I guess this has been an issue for others and BB has addressed it in the new gen 4. |
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Originally Posted By fulautotank: Just a FYI. One issue that I have had with my 22 frt setup has been the borebuddy adjustable weight set. The screws that hold the end plate on that holds the weights in come loose and cause malfunctions. It will cause dead trigger issues just like bolt bounce. I think the end plate being loose effects the dead blow of the weights. I have used blue loctite and they held tight much longer but came loose again. I see that they now have a gen4 adjustable weight set and they have apparently done away with the screws and it appears to now use a roll pin. I guess this has been an issue for others and BB has addressed it in the new gen 4. I bought mine this summer, and my weight kit came with both a temporary pin for testing weights, and a roll pin for more permanently securing them. |
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Mine runs mini-mags and blazers nearly 100% CMMG dedicated bolt Bore buddy: 12" match fluted barrel Stainless weigh body with all stainless weights. Buffer plug Yellow recoil spring Super Safety trip kit Extractor, medium spring Firing pin, lightest spring Buffer plug Atrius Super Selektor & 3dp stainless super safety, both run Gemtech GM-22  Super Safe AR-22 Bore Buddy Build @BoreBuddy  Bore Buddy 22lr Running Atrius Super Selektor #noidontsellanything @borebuddy |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I bought mine this summer, and my weight kit came with both a temporary pin for testing weights, and a roll pin for more permanently securing them. |
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Originally Posted By fulautotank: I wonder if there is a way to pin the one that I have? The new model has a hole for a roll pin. They also have a temp pin for tuning. Juat drill out your threaded hole for a roll pin. Make sure its a secure fit . |
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Originally Posted By fulautotank: I wonder if there is a way to pin the one that I have? Use red, high strength, thread locker. Don’t worry, it will break loose if needed and won’t if you don’t. I’ve used the green sleeve retainer, that’s supposed to be permanent, break loose without heat. |
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Like OP, no matter what combination of parts I throw at this, I can't get it to run reliably. I have purchased pretty much everything that BoreBuddy makes for .22LR AR's and tried pretty much all combinations of parts. I've even tried it with a Super Safety and RB FRT-15. The FRT-15 was more likely to run, but even then, it would not get through more than ~5 rounds before choking. Usually, it would be a dead trigger. Semi-auto works great in it... but FRT anything and it just won't run. 
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Originally Posted By jtb33: Like OP, no matter what combination of parts I throw at this, I can't get it to run reliably. I have purchased pretty much everything that BoreBuddy makes for .22LR AR's and tried pretty much all combinations of parts. I've even tried it with a Super Safety and RB FRT-15. The FRT-15 was more likely to run, but even then, it would not get through more than ~5 rounds before choking. Usually, it would be a dead trigger. Semi-auto works great in it... but FRT anything and it just won't run. What length barrel? Longer is easier to get reliable. And I always run suppressed. Consistent ammo. So far mine runs beat with 36gr mini-mags Mine did not Iike the first gen Borebuddy firing pin, and I broke the cmmg pin several times. The current bore Buddy firing pin has well over 2000 on it now. Start with the aluminum weight body and all aluminum weights, trade out one weight at a time working your way up to all stainless. I did the opposite, unconventional, if there is such a thing. I started all stainless. Kept trying to drop but nothing else would run as well. Mine works almost as good with 40gr mini-mags and blazers The cascade 50gr work OK when I dropped weight The Aguila 60gr sniper subsonics do decent, but damn they are expensive. None of these have worked for me at all Federal bulk Federal auto match Winchester super X 40gr Cci standard velocity Cci Suppressor subsonic Remington golden Thunder bolts Aguilar super extra Magtech 40gr Probably 10 others too. |
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I started by using printed parts for the SS, but the failed before firing it. Tested the semiauto functionality last weekend and it was good to go. Got the metal trip plate and it didn’t work with a printed lever. With a metal lever it passes the bench test. Gonna try to get out tomorrow and live fire it. Anderson lower. RTB upper, conversion, barrel and plastic CH. Supersafetyshop metal SS and aluminum trip sled. The rest is parts bin parts. I modded the trigger and detent and polished the SS drum and trip sled. No AB weight, but I’ll take the one out of the ‘16 conversion just in case. 
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Just wanted to note that in the Bore Buddy info section on their website they note that the trip should be adjusted to activate the FRT just as the bolt closes. Not before or after. I have a Rare Breed in mine and at first I had the trip adjusted way too far forward. I carefully examined when the trigger releases the hammer but using one finger to pull the trigger, one to push the FRT lever and one on the hammer so I could see exactly when the hammer was activated. Once I figured that out, I went back and readjusted the trip and that’s what made my gun run well. The firing pin channel has to be keep clean or you won’t get a good primer strike. If you shoot suppressed it’s even harder to keep it clean. Just some tips. I can post pictures or whatever helps. |
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: I started by using printed parts for the SS, but the failed before firing it. Tested the semiauto functionality last weekend and it was good to go. Got the metal trip plate and it didn’t work with a printed lever. With a metal lever it passes the bench test. Gonna try to get out tomorrow and live fire it. Anderson lower. RTB upper, conversion, barrel and plastic CH. Supersafetyshop metal SS and aluminum trip sled. The rest is parts bin parts. I modded the trigger and detent and polished the SS drum and trip sled. No AB weight, but I’ll take the one out of the ‘16 conversion just in case. https://i.postimg.cc/PqzHzStB/IMG_3536.jpg Preliminary testing in sub-zero weather this morning. The printed ABW weight was a no-go. Replaced it with the CMMG ABW from the ‘16 and managed some bursts with mini-mags, Federal bulk and Thunderbolts. As the pistol got colder, it didn’t work. I’m going to try polishing the moving parts a little more to reduce the friction. I will also wait until it’s north of single digit temps. It ran with and without the silencer as well. This is looking promising despite the 4.5” barrel and metal SS parts that are not recommended. More to come…  ETA: The TX22 , which has been flawless, was also choking in the cold. |
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: Preliminary testing in sub-zero weather this morning. The printed ABW weight was a no-go. Replaced it with the CMMG ABW from the '16 and managed some bursts with mini-mags, Federal bulk and Thunderbolts. As the pistol got colder, it didn't work. I'm going to try polishing the moving parts a little more to reduce the friction. I will also wait until it's north of single digit temps as well. It ran with and without the silencer as well. This is looking promising despite the 4.5" barrel and metal SS parts that are not recommended. More to come Adjusting the BB trip screw out coupled with KVP reduced power trigger springs made for a better, less sensitive to finger pressure reset but I still have to be gentle on the trigger or I'll end up with no bang hammer follow. My 4.5" has a suppressor dedicated to it so I didn't bother with unsuppressed shooting/tuning. I just switched up my 22lr set up to yesterday to a cornfire arsenal MARC/ PSA EPT trigger combo. Very promising so far and has ran 100% thru 5, 25rd mags and a BD 50rd drum. It's also pretty cold here so once it warms up a bit I'll do testing. Initial impression, the MARC feels like it has less resistance than the SS did when racking the bolt thru reset. It's also not at all sensitive to finger pressure like the SS. I'd be lucky to get thru the BD drum with just one hammer follow stoppage with the SS... the MARC just squrited until dry 
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Originally Posted By shultz: 4.5" and metal SS lever not reccomended? Mine runs pretty well using GMR metal SS parts. I could not use the metal lever with a 3D printed trip. The borebuddy adjustable does work with the metal lever for me. Along with a bunch of other tuning, I got mine running about 99%. The only thing I couldn't get completely solved is excess trigger finger pressure stoppages. Adjusting the BB trip screw out coupled with KVP reduced power trigger springs made for a better, less sensitive to finger pressure reset but I still have to be gentle on the trigger or I'll end up with no bang hammer follow. My 4.5" has a suppressor dedicated to it so I didn't bother with unsuppressed shooting/tuning. I just switched up my 22lr set up to yesterday to a cornfire arsenal MARC/ PSA EPT trigger combo. Very promising so far and has ran 100% thru 5, 25rd mags and a BD 50rd drum. It's also pretty cold here so once it warms up a bit I'll do testing. Initial impression, the MARC feels like it has less resistance than the SS did when racking the bolt thru reset. It's also not at all sensitive to finger pressure like the SS. I'd be lucky to get thru the BD drum with just one hammer follow stoppage with the SS... the MARC just squrited until dry Originally Posted By shultz: Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: Preliminary testing in sub-zero weather this morning. The printed ABW weight was a no-go. Replaced it with the CMMG ABW from the '16 and managed some bursts with mini-mags, Federal bulk and Thunderbolts. As the pistol got colder, it didn't work. I'm going to try polishing the moving parts a little more to reduce the friction. I will also wait until it's north of single digit temps as well. It ran with and without the silencer as well. This is looking promising despite the 4.5" barrel and metal SS parts that are not recommended. More to come Adjusting the BB trip screw out coupled with KVP reduced power trigger springs made for a better, less sensitive to finger pressure reset but I still have to be gentle on the trigger or I'll end up with no bang hammer follow. My 4.5" has a suppressor dedicated to it so I didn't bother with unsuppressed shooting/tuning. I just switched up my 22lr set up to yesterday to a cornfire arsenal MARC/ PSA EPT trigger combo. Very promising so far and has ran 100% thru 5, 25rd mags and a BD 50rd drum. It's also pretty cold here so once it warms up a bit I'll do testing. Initial impression, the MARC feels like it has less resistance than the SS did when racking the bolt thru reset. It's also not at all sensitive to finger pressure like the SS. I'd be lucky to get thru the BD drum with just one hammer follow stoppage with the SS... the MARC just squrited until dry Regarding the KVP trigger springs... Did you install both the light trigger and hammer springs? It seems like you wouldn't want a light hammer for most rimfires, but let me know if I'm off base. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Regarding the KVP trigger springs... Did you install both the light trigger and hammer springs? It seems like you wouldn't want a light hammer for most rimfires, but let me know if I'm off base. It's pretty obvious when you rack the bolt, resetting the hammer the lighter springs reduce felt resistance. I think that reduced friction/resistance helps. As with most things AR 22lr, YMMV. |
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Originally Posted By shultz: Yes to both as well as the lighter disco spring. I thought the same. I've had zero issue igniting primer compound. Sure, I've had a some good FP strikes that didnt go bang, ie, bulk pack dud rds. I've had hammer follow that can appear to be a light strike but thats not the fault of the lighter springs. I'm using the same springs in the wife's 9" 22lr. No FRT in her's but again, zero ignition issues. She shoots CCI standard as well as Aguila SV mostly to avoid sonic crack. Me I shoot the cheap shit federal bulk mostly, my 4.5" barrel keeps it sub. It's pretty obvious when you rack the bolt, resetting the hammer the lighter springs reduce felt resistance. I think that reduced friction/resistance helps. As with most things AR 22lr, YMMV. Originally Posted By shultz: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Regarding the KVP trigger springs... Did you install both the light trigger and hammer springs? It seems like you wouldn't want a light hammer for most rimfires, but let me know if I'm off base. It's pretty obvious when you rack the bolt, resetting the hammer the lighter springs reduce felt resistance. I think that reduced friction/resistance helps. As with most things AR 22lr, YMMV. Interesting. I think I'll give that a shot, thanks. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Interesting. I think I'll give that a shot, thanks. |
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Originally Posted By shultz: Post back if you do with your results. Like you, I heard a long time ago lighter springs, hammer in particular caused ignition problems but thats not been my experience. In fact, the lighter springs were what pushed my SS setup from 90ish% to 99%. I transferred the lighter springs to my new MARC/PSA EPT combo as well, excellent results so far. Originally Posted By shultz: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Interesting. I think I'll give that a shot, thanks. I certainly will! |
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Originally Posted By shultz: 4.5" and metal SS lever not reccomended? Mine runs pretty well using GMR metal SS parts. I could not use the metal lever with a 3D printed trip. The borebuddy adjustable does work with the metal lever for me. Along with a bunch of other tuning, I got mine running about 99%. The only thing I couldn't get completely solved is excess trigger finger pressure stoppages. Adjusting the BB trip screw out coupled with KVP reduced power trigger springs made for a better, less sensitive to finger pressure reset but I still have to be gentle on the trigger or I'll end up with no bang hammer follow. My 4.5" has a suppressor dedicated to it so I didn't bother with unsuppressed shooting/tuning. I just switched up my 22lr set up to yesterday to a cornfire arsenal MARC/ PSA EPT trigger combo. Very promising so far and has ran 100% thru 5, 25rd mags and a BD 50rd drum. It's also pretty cold here so once it warms up a bit I'll do testing. Initial impression, the MARC feels like it has less resistance than the SS did when racking the bolt thru reset. It's also not at all sensitive to finger pressure like the SS. I'd be lucky to get thru the BD drum with just one hammer follow stoppage with the SS... the MARC just squrited until dry I’m after the most bangs for the buck. That’s why I started and failed with the plastic parts and moved to metal. I’ll start playing with spring rates when I run out of options in the current iteration. This is 100% in semi, but fully semiautomatic is the goal. I was able to tune the .22 kits with my transferable ‘16 and Uzi using cheap, shit bulk ammo. I’ll get it done with this and any other .22 I choose to correct. |
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My set up. 4.5"cmmg barrel and bolt Borebuddy stuffs Yellow recoil spring Sure strike FP with standard spring Hardened extractor/ heavy spring Aluminum weight housing with 2 steel and two Aluminum weights installed. Adjustable SS trip Buffer plug Black Dog mags, lots of 15/25rd mags plus a few 50rd drums. Cornfire arsenal MARC/PSA EPT trigger will probably permanently replace the GMR SS. KVP reduced power trigger, hammer disco springs. Sparrow silencer Lots of cheap federal bulk pack 36gr bought years ago at Walmart. For lube, I like dry. Hornady one shot gun cleaner lube works pretty well and dosen't form a slurry after a few mag dumps like oils do...carbon basically just wipes off to boot. |
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Originally Posted By mc556: Which version of the bore buddy trip works with the AZ regulator? I assume it’s not the SS version but don’t want to order the wrong one. To my knowledge, the AZ regulator doesn't work with any available 22s. He's supposed to be working on a 22 setup. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: To my knowledge, the AZ regulator doesn't work with any available 22s. He's supposed to be working on a 22 setup. Good luck navigating that shitshow of a thread to find out anything. Unlike a normal tech thread, it’s like the mix of OCD, ADD, ADHD, Turrett’s and some Down’s put all into one. Very little info dispersed amongst the bullshit. |
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Last night I ordered my adjustable ss trip kit from bore buddy and they now show a "certified" trigger saying they tested it with a atrius and "certify" them to work. I did not order one, but it was interesting. https://borebuddy.com/product/rise-armament-rave-140/ |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Last night I ordered my adjustable ss trip kit from bore buddy and they now show a "certified" trigger saying they tested it with a atrius and "certify" them to work. I did not order one, but it was interesting. https://borebuddy.com/product/rise-armament-rave-140/ Very, very interesting. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Last night I ordered my adjustable ss trip kit from bore buddy and they now show a "certified" trigger saying they tested it with a atrius and "certify" them to work. I did not order one, but it was interesting. https://borebuddy.com/product/rise-armament-rave-140/ I used a stock PSA mil spec trigger with my Atrius 22 build. |
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: Preliminary testing in sub-zero weather this morning. The printed ABW weight was a no-go. Replaced it with the CMMG ABW from the ‘16 and managed some bursts with mini-mags, Federal bulk and Thunderbolts. As the pistol got colder, it didn’t work. I’m going to try polishing the moving parts a little more to reduce the friction. I will also wait until it’s north of single digit temps. It ran with and without the silencer as well. This is looking promising despite the 4.5” barrel and metal SS parts that are not recommended. More to come… ETA: The TX22 , which has been flawless, was also choking in the cold. Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: I started by using printed parts for the SS, but the failed before firing it. Tested the semiauto functionality last weekend and it was good to go. Got the metal trip plate and it didn’t work with a printed lever. With a metal lever it passes the bench test. Gonna try to get out tomorrow and live fire it. Anderson lower. RTB upper, conversion, barrel and plastic CH. Supersafetyshop metal SS and aluminum trip sled. The rest is parts bin parts. I modded the trigger and detent and polished the SS drum and trip sled. No AB weight, but I’ll take the one out of the ‘16 conversion just in case. https://i.postimg.cc/PqzHzStB/IMG_3536.jpg Preliminary testing in sub-zero weather this morning. The printed ABW weight was a no-go. Replaced it with the CMMG ABW from the ‘16 and managed some bursts with mini-mags, Federal bulk and Thunderbolts. As the pistol got colder, it didn’t work. I’m going to try polishing the moving parts a little more to reduce the friction. I will also wait until it’s north of single digit temps. It ran with and without the silencer as well. This is looking promising despite the 4.5” barrel and metal SS parts that are not recommended. More to come… ETA: The TX22 , which has been flawless, was also choking in the cold. I’m quoting my previous posts for continuity. Polished the drum and face of the stainless hammer. If you peek down past the hammer you can see a beer can shim that I used to tighten up the trip to time it better. I also polished the tip of the selector detent.  Upon reassembly, the drum picked up a bunch of resistance that wasn’t there before the grip and detent spring were replaced. I cut 1/8” off the detent spring and now it’s glass smooth with the drum rotation. The cross bolt is still secure in each position. Something y’all may want to consider with the Hoffman configuration. Everything checks perfect on the bench. I’ll try it again this weekend for live fire function.
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My bore buddy adjustable SS trip showed up. I also ordered their lead weights for their bolt weight. With the stainless weights, it was 1.8 oz, with the lead weights, it is now 2 oz. I am still running the GMR SS with their printed lever, as my ARC-fire has still not got here. I tried it out today and it still functions fine in semi auto with the heavier weight. I tried frt and I was able to get one burst of about 5-8 rounds, but that was it, it then went back to single shot. It then started having issues in semi auto, light strikes and the strikes looked funny. Turns out, my firing pin broke. I called it then. I brought it back inside and tore it all apart and cleaned everything and reinstalled the original "crescent" firing pin that came with it. I was having issues with it not wanting to set off rounds, but they said my trigger was too weak and sold me the "sure strike" firing pin. It has the more standard chisel tip. It has been working fine until it just broke today. It was too late to try it again with crescent firing pin, so I will revisit it later. I am running a different trigger at first, so I have not tried the current one with the crescent firing pin. |
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: I’m quoting my previous posts for continuity. Polished the drum and face of the stainless hammer. If you peek down past the hammer you can see a beer can shim that I used to tighten up the trip to time it better. I also polished the tip of the selector detent. https://i.postimg.cc/0yJh9ZN7/IMG-3547.jpg Upon reassembly, the drum picked up a bunch of resistance that wasn’t there before the grip and detent spring were replaced. I cut 1/8” off the detent spring and now it’s glass smooth with the drum rotation. The cross bolt is still secure in each position. Something y’all may want to consider with the Hoffman configuration. Everything checks perfect on the bench. I’ll try it again this weekend for live fire function. Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: I started by using printed parts for the SS, but the failed before firing it. Tested the semiauto functionality last weekend and it was good to go. Got the metal trip plate and it didn’t work with a printed lever. With a metal lever it passes the bench test. Gonna try to get out tomorrow and live fire it. Anderson lower. RTB upper, conversion, barrel and plastic CH. Supersafetyshop metal SS and aluminum trip sled. The rest is parts bin parts. I modded the trigger and detent and polished the SS drum and trip sled. No AB weight, but I’ll take the one out of the ‘16 conversion just in case. https://i.postimg.cc/PqzHzStB/IMG_3536.jpg Preliminary testing in sub-zero weather this morning. The printed ABW weight was a no-go. Replaced it with the CMMG ABW from the ‘16 and managed some bursts with mini-mags, Federal bulk and Thunderbolts. As the pistol got colder, it didn’t work. I’m going to try polishing the moving parts a little more to reduce the friction. I will also wait until it’s north of single digit temps. It ran with and without the silencer as well. This is looking promising despite the 4.5” barrel and metal SS parts that are not recommended. More to come… ETA: The TX22 , which has been flawless, was also choking in the cold. I’m quoting my previous posts for continuity. Polished the drum and face of the stainless hammer. If you peek down past the hammer you can see a beer can shim that I used to tighten up the trip to time it better. I also polished the tip of the selector detent. https://i.postimg.cc/0yJh9ZN7/IMG-3547.jpg Upon reassembly, the drum picked up a bunch of resistance that wasn’t there before the grip and detent spring were replaced. I cut 1/8” off the detent spring and now it’s glass smooth with the drum rotation. The cross bolt is still secure in each position. Something y’all may want to consider with the Hoffman configuration. Everything checks perfect on the bench. I’ll try it again this weekend for live fire function. No dice. I’m going to try some more shim and see about polishing the contact surface on the trigger. It’s not quite releasing the trigger in forced reset…really close though. |
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: No dice. I’m going to try some more shim and see about polishing the contact surface on the trigger. It’s not quite releasing the trigger in forced reset…really close though. If you're getting a good reset on the rearward travel of the bolt, one thing you can try is layering some tape on the rear of the trip cutout (to advance the timing of the trigger on bolt return). If that solves your problem, the BB SS adjustable trip kit could be a more permanent solution. It may require filing off the rear shelf to allow moving the trip forward in relation to the steel bar. I'd start with laying tape as a diagnostic, though. |
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: If you're getting a good reset on the rearward travel of the bolt, one thing you can try is layering some tape on the rear of the trip cutout (to advance the timing of the trigger on bolt return). If that solves your problem, the BB SS adjustable trip kit could be a more permanent solution. It may require filing off the rear shelf to allow moving the trip forward in relation to the steel bar. I'd start with laying tape as a diagnostic, though. The reset is excellent. I initially was going to start layering material on the trip bar, but decided to shim the slop out of the drum where the lever contacts it in the forward position (pictured above). I’ll play around with it a little more today and see what happens. |
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Carried over from Dedicated FRT upper: CMMG Banshee, Bore Buddy AR22 Apogee Match, or ??? and with which FRT? I have a BB  The above is Federal AM22. From top to bottom:
 The above is Federal AE22. From top to bottom:
 The above is CCI 940CC:
 The above is 38 gr Sellier & Bellot SR22B (discontinued in 38 gr, now offered in 40 gr):
As a side note, I couldn't get BB's tungsten weights, so I briefly tried their lead ones (not used in conjunction with the above). The weights deformed inside the carrier during firing and got stuck. I had to drill them out (1/4" larger channel, 3/16" smaller channel). If you're going to use lead weights, be aware that they'll likely deform after which they won't have a dead-blow effect. I would also recommend drilling out 3/32" holes through the closed end of the carrier so you can use a punch to tap out stuck weights. Since the channels are drilled with tapered bits, I recommend drilling outward from the inside of the channel, as the taper on the interior will act as a center guide. Jan 3, 2026 Edit After having to drill out one large and one small weight, these are the 3/32" holes I drilled through the "back" of my steel carrier:    I'm a little miffed I missed the center of the 1/4" channel, but oh well. I ran my remaining large and small lead weights in the rear (closest to the opening) and large and small steel weights toward the rear (closest to my drilled punch holes). After running about 100 rds through the gun, the lead weights deformed/expanded enough such that no weights would slide in the carrier, and nothing would come out on its own. This is what they looked like after I pounded them out with a punch:  My assessment is that the lead weights are not fit for purpose. |
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I may have cracked the code. I'm shooting a 12" Bore Buddy upper, with a Warlock II silencer. I struggled to get the FRT-15L3 running, and eventually sort of did, but I never felt that it was truly running reliably. I started over with an Atrius Super Selektor, and a Rise Armament Rave 140. This trigger is advertised (even "certified") by Bore Buddy to drop in and work with the Atrius, and by Jove it does. I had an enormously successful range session with this setup. In the lower I have a dedicated 22 bolt catch, a buffer plug, and I believe I currently have the 4 pound recoil spring. I also have the steel weight, with (I believe) all four steel pin weights. It's been a few months since I roll pinned the weight shut, but I suppose I could weigh it. The upper is all Bore Buddy, with their Super Safety trip.  " /> " /> " />
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I may have cracked the code. I'm shooting a 12" Bore Buddy upper, with a Warlock II silencer. I struggled to get the FRT-15L3 running, and eventually sort of did, but I never felt that it was truly running reliably. I started over with an Atrius Super Selektor, and a Rise Armament Rave 140. This trigger is advertised (even "certified") by Bore Buddy to drop in and work with the Atrius, and by Jove it does. I had an enormously successful range session with this setup. In the lower I have a dedicated 22 bolt catch, a buffer plug, and I believe I currently have the 4 pound recoil spring. I also have the steel weight, with (I believe) all four steel pin weights. It's been a few months since I roll pinned the weight shut, but I suppose I could weigh it. The upper is all Bore Buddy, with their Super Safety trip. [url]https://i.imgur.com/rTBJ5cp.jpeg">https://i.imgur.com/rTBJ5cp.jpeg">[url]https://i.imgur.com/rTBJ5cp.jpeg [url]https://i.imgur.com/4UeuTJI.jpeg">https://i.imgur.com/4UeuTJI.jpeg">[url]https://i.imgur.com/4UeuTJI.jpeg [url]https://i.imgur.com/SMF259k.jpeg">https://i.imgur.com/SMF259k.jpeg">[url]https://i.imgur.com/SMF259k.jpeg 
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https://www.ArizonaShooting.org
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Originally Posted By jtb33: This is what I ended up buying (the trigger components you mention). Problem is that Atrius waits so long to ship their stuff. Ordered over a month ago and still waiting for it to ship. Originally Posted By jtb33: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I may have cracked the code. I'm shooting a 12" Bore Buddy upper, with a Warlock II silencer. I struggled to get the FRT-15L3 running, and eventually sort of did, but I never felt that it was truly running reliably. I started over with an Atrius Super Selektor, and a Rise Armament Rave 140. This trigger is advertised (even "certified") by Bore Buddy to drop in and work with the Atrius, and by Jove it does. I had an enormously successful range session with this setup. In the lower I have a dedicated 22 bolt catch, a buffer plug, and I believe I currently have the 4 pound recoil spring. I also have the steel weight, with (I believe) all four steel pin weights. It's been a few months since I roll pinned the weight shut, but I suppose I could weigh it. The upper is all Bore Buddy, with their Super Safety trip. [url]https://i.imgur.com/rTBJ5cp.jpeg">https://i.imgur.com/rTBJ5cp.jpeg">[url]https://i.imgur.com/rTBJ5cp.jpeg [url]https://i.imgur.com/4UeuTJI.jpeg">https://i.imgur.com/4UeuTJI.jpeg">[url]https://i.imgur.com/4UeuTJI.jpeg [url]https://i.imgur.com/SMF259k.jpeg">https://i.imgur.com/SMF259k.jpeg">[url]https://i.imgur.com/SMF259k.jpeg https://www.masdefense.com/ATRIUS-FORCED-RESET-SELECTOR-p/adg-frs.htm @jtb33 I ordered one from these guys, and it shipped in about a week. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: https://www.masdefense.com/ATRIUS-FORCED-RESET-SELECTOR-p/adg-frs.htm @jtb33 I ordered one from these guys, and it shipped in about a week. Great lead! I think I was slowly headed toward the same destination as you. I have a setup very similar to yours with an FRT15L3, but have been eyeballing the Atrius with the Rave 140 after giving up on nearly everything else. I even had a WTB posting up, since, like @jtb33, I thought I was going to have to wait forever. As an aside, does anyone know what happened with AZR's 22LR offering? |
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: Great lead! I think I was slowly headed toward the same destination as you. I have a setup very similar to yours with an FRT15L3, but have been eyeballing the Atrius with the Rave 140 after giving up on nearly everything else. I even had a WTB posting up, since, like @jtb33, I thought I was going to have to wait forever. Now if I can only get MAS to process my darn payment....  As an aside, does anyone know what happened with AZR's 22LR offering? Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: https://www.masdefense.com/ATRIUS-FORCED-RESET-SELECTOR-p/adg-frs.htm @jtb33 I ordered one from these guys, and it shipped in about a week. Great lead! I think I was slowly headed toward the same destination as you. I have a setup very similar to yours with an FRT15L3, but have been eyeballing the Atrius with the Rave 140 after giving up on nearly everything else. I even had a WTB posting up, since, like @jtb33, I thought I was going to have to wait forever. Now if I can only get MAS to process my darn payment.... As an aside, does anyone know what happened with AZR's 22LR offering? I haven't heard anything about AZR. JD hasn't posted on Twitter in a while, though AZRs are still shipping, at least as of Dec 2. I suspect it's pretty difficult to make a good 22 trigger without building the entire platform, or at least the upper, so you have control of variables. |
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: Right now Optics Planet has Rave 140s for $95 w/ free shipping. Both Primary Arms and Palmetto State Armory have them for $90. @ELittlefield, how do you like the trigger itself? Or was that a secondary concern to having a functional brrrt mode? It was a secondary concern. Most of my guns prior to my FRT buying spree this year had Larue MBT 1 stage and 2 stage triggers, or just USGI in the lower end ones. Now, over half of my guns have FRTs, which has pushed the Larues down even into my cheap Bear Creek guns. I digress. The quality of the Rave 140 is very high, I would say. It's a light, crisp single stage trigger that happens to marry to the Atrius extremely well. I don't think I would pick it over my Larue 2 stages if the FRT were not a factor, but since it is a factor, I would absolutely pick it as a substantial upgrade over USGI for my Atrius selectors. In fact, I just ordered a third Atrius to use with another Rave 140 based on my success today. I can't speak to its long term durability, but I don't think any currently manufactured triggers break. That tech got sorted out up and down the industry years ago. Here's kind of a peek under the hammer.  " /> " />
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: I love the fact that the Rave has set screws. My FRT15L3 wiggles around a ton in some of my lowers. I've been told that's fine, but there's something unnerving about it (a personal issue, I know). No set screws, just a pair of springs on the bottom to take up some slack. That big set screw looking thing under the hammer has a dome of clear resin of some kind on top, not a hex cut. It's not obvious to me what it does. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: No set screws, just a pair of springs on the bottom to take up some slack. That big set screw looking thing under the hammer has a dome of clear resin of some kind on top, not a hex cut. It's not obvious to me what it does. Overtravel stop for the hammer? Glad to hear you got yours running. Sadly, artius has discontinued the ambi models.  I have my 2 arc-fires back from ASD and tested them in 223 (two different rifles, one with a G2S, the other with a SSA-E) and they both work. I bench tested the one with the G2S and my BB upper and SS trip and it passes function tests. So hopefully I can try it out tomorrow (saturady) I guess I can hope, but I am not holding my breath. |
Who here is using a FRT with a 22LR. What is your setup? (Page 3 of 11)
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