AR Sponsor
Posted: 7/25/2011 4:34:53 PM EDT
|
I got a new YHM 5M1 Brake in for my new PSA upper.. it comes with a crush washer..
the issue I have is.. it will not possibly turn the extra 1/2 turn to get the SOLID bottom to the bottom of the barrel.. which is where I need it to be to work properly.. (I think). and I know I am not supposed to bottom out the brake on the muzzle face.. if I use 2 new crush washers it lines up fine.. and timed properly... I am going to PIN it anyway (for NJ compliance).. would you folks run 1 crush washer and leave the 'hair gap' and just pin it?? should I run a peel washer and crush washer.. Help.. suggestions.. can I get std 1/2 washers from home depot and just keep trying till I get it right??? |
|
One crush washer only. You may need a 'peel washer' instead. How did you assemble/tighten it? Some people use the same assembly technique as they use on a barrel nut: tighten/loosen/tighten til correct. Even though crush washers aren't 'supposed to be' retightened, they aren't 'structural'. I've tightened, waited about 20 minutes, then given it another crank... waited some more... etc. Try that. And make sure you have the barrel in a vice between 2 blocks of wood, preferably blocks that have been channeled to grip a barrel. Don't try to use the lower as the vice point, or put the upper in the vice. Good luck. |
|
Quoted:
I'm not tracking you. You should be able to get it timed with 1 crush washer. How many turns do you have on it? The SOLID bottom is on the top at the moment with very light turn.. with 1 crush washer in.. I can back it off a 1/2 turn and get it TIMED, but then the crush washer will flop around.. (don't forget I'm pinning it).. the 2nd issue is, if I do manage to get it around to 6 oclock I have to remove it again to driil it to PIN it.. for compliance.. I think the peel washers may be a better trick.. I can PIN the brake and leave the crush washer there for looks but that isn't what I want.. |
|
Now with 2 crush washers (both are new)..
with a slight twist I get the brake TIMED.. and the washers don't move.. hmm.. 
should I try to grind down 1 crush washer to make it thinner.. (peel washers aren't cheap..) should I just use the 2 crush washers?? (I am pinning it anyway) anyone got an extra peel washer I can play with?? |
|
Quoted: Quoted: I'm not tracking you. You should be able to get it timed with 1 crush washer. How many turns do you have on it? The SOLID bottom is on the top at the moment with very light turn.. with 1 crush washer in.. I can back it off a 1/2 turn and get it TIMED, but then the crush washer will flop around.. (don't forget I'm pinning it).. the 2nd issue is, if I do manage to get it around to 6 oclock I have to remove it again to driil it to PIN it.. for compliance.. I think the peel washers may be a better trick.. I can PIN the brake and leave the crush washer there for looks but that isn't what I want.. Why not just tighten it down another 1/2 turn? I'm still not understanding your problem. Sounds like you just need to tighten it down until it's timed remove it, drill it then reinstall. Crush washers are designed to be crushed. You should be able to get at least a full rotation out of the brake even after had tightening against the crush washer. Just tighten down a quarter turn, back it off, then tighten down, back it off, repeat until it's timed |
|
here at my little abode..
I don't have a VISE.. or a work bench.. I was trying to get this resolved the EASY way.. I cannot apply enough TORQUE to get it that 1/2 turn.. without possible damaging the upper by holding it on the FLOOR 
I am PINNING the BRAKE.. so using BRUTE force isn't required at all. I ordered a PEEL washer.. which if I measured correctly will allow me to use that, and just the brake and be TIMED.. |
|
If you're pinning the flash hider, a welder is involved, after a hole is drilled through the hider into the barrel. I assume a professional is going to do that. So why are you trying to do a half-assed job on the floor with no vice and possibly damaging your upper, when you're taking it to a guy with the tools to do the job? I'm just wondering what it is that you're thinking you're going to accomplish. |
|
Considering I have PINNED 3 brakes successfully without too many tools other then a drill, a tap, a 8-32 setscrew, and my friends welder..
YOUR a butthead.. 
I am going with a PEEL washer and slight tension on the BRAKE.. (I mentioned this earlier) You assume  because I don't have READY access, I don't have access..
going to brother in laws to use his vise to drill the brake as we speak.. then I will drill a divot in the bbl.. then I will TAP the BRAKE.. then I will screw in the 8-32x3/16" screw.. then throw a smidge of weld on top.. |
|
Quoted:
Question: what is meant by timed? Brakes have slots on the sides (vertical or horizontal) most brakes are SOLID on the bottom to prevent DUST from kicking up when laying down prone to shoot.. you must sometimes TIME the brake so the solid bottom is at 6pm position.. (aka BOTTOM of Clock).. to prevent muzzle FLIP/RISE.. (and prevent dust also).. also some people time different brakes to push slightly left or right or up or down with the same 'dead' spot.. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Question: what is meant by timed? Brakes have slots on the sides (vertical or horizontal) most brakes are SOLID on the bottom to prevent DUST from kicking up when laying down prone to shoot.. you must sometimes TIME the brake so the solid bottom is at 6pm position.. (aka BOTTOM of Clock).. to prevent muzzle FLIP/RISE.. (and prevent dust also).. also some people time different brakes to push slightly left or right or up or down with the same 'dead' spot.. thanks |
|
Got the single PEEL washer in.. peeled off 2 layers and it fit PERFECT with just a little torque..
Heres a shot with the Brake Tapped and the Barrel dimpled.. 
and here it is mounted..with the set screw in.. and waiting on the welder.. 
Thanks for the help.. maybe this post will help someone else.. |
AR Sponsor