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11/21/2006 11:03:46 AM EDT
I've got a LW FF YHM rail on my 20" rifle, upper built by Del-Ton as a kit.  Was screwing around the other day, trying to install a Vortex and 1) didn't assemble the rifle (bad move), 2) said "I don't need a vice, here partner hold down on this fore end, and 3) spun that rail right out of true.

Here's my question(s):

Will I need to disassemble the entire front end (no issues, it's got a YHM bolt on flip up front sight) in order to crank this sucker back down?

Do I need to order the YHM rail wrench to do it the right way?  We've already seen where Joe half assing it got us...

What color/grade Loctite to use on the jam nut?

Additionally, the Phanton that's on there now won't budge.  Should I heat up the FH to get it off...?

THX in advance for help.
11/21/2006 11:31:02 AM EDT
[#1]
First off, always use barrel clamp jaws in a vice when doing any FH changes and installs. It is just plain safer to do it this way.

Second, yes you should buy the YHM wrench, it makes life a whole lot easier.

Third, I used blue loctite when I installed the YHM rails, and I really crank down on them too. (Obviously, when doing this, you should be using a upper reciever vice block of some kind.)

Good luck
11/21/2006 6:53:38 PM EDT
[#2]

Quoted:
Will I need to disassemble the entire front end (no issues, it's got a YHM bolt on flip up front sight) in order to crank this sucker back down?


No.  Simply loosen jam nut, true tube, and tighten jam nut.  I used to drill a hole through the tube into the barrel nut, thread it, and install a set screw to keep this from happening.  The new YHM units have pin screws that solve this design issue.


Do I need to order the YHM rail wrench to do it the right way?  We've already seen where Joe half assing it got us...


While it makes it easier - it is not required.  You can used a hammer and a sharp flat blade screwdriver to tap the jam nut.  Just understand you might mar the finish.  Big deal.


What color/grade Loctite to use on the jam nut?


Blue.


Additionally, the Phanton that's on there now won't budge.  Should I heat up the FH to get it off...?


If it was permanently installed - it will need to go to a smith for removal.  However, a 20" rifle barrel should have a standard install.  They might have used red loctite, in which heat will help.... but likely needs to be clamped in a barrel vise for removal.
11/22/2006 4:00:43 AM EDT
[#3]
Thanks for all the good poop, I'll get to fixing it...
11/22/2006 5:05:36 PM EDT
[#4]

Quoted:
Thanks for all the good poop, I'll get to fixing it...


Falarak did not mention it, but watch out for your barrel nut alignment.
It's possible that the barrel nut is not in perfect alignment.
The test for this is to reach into the bottom of the upper receiver with the bolt carrier & charging handle removed and try to move the gas tube side-to-side.

If the nut is properly aligned, the gas tube is free to move about 0.030" or so.
If it's pinched to one side or the other, you will want to correct that before aligning the rail again.
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