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Posted: 3/14/2009 7:49:27 PM EDT
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At what range should my rifle be zeroed in for a carbine class? I'm thinking 100 yards but I'm not sure.
I plan to use standard U.S. Army 25 meter targets. To zero my rifle in at 100, 200 or 300 yards, how far below the point of aim do I want my point of impact? |
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Zero at 50; then remember you're going to be a bit low at 25, a bit high at 100, and dead on again at 200, but the margins of "error" are so small you won't need to think about it.
eta seriously, dead center of the X at 50 yards; that puts you about an inch low at 25 and an inch and a half high at 100. If the instructor wants something different he'll tell you, but in the absence of direction from him, the battlefield zero at 50 is the way to go. Forever. |
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Quoted: Agreed: a 50y zero will be gtg for all practical intents and purposes from 25-200y.Zero at 50; then remember you're going to be a bit low at 25, a bit high at 100, and dead on again at 200, but the margins of "error" are so small you won't need to think about it. eta seriously, dead center of the X at 50 yards; that puts you about an inch low at 25 and an inch and a half high at 100. If the instructor wants something different he'll tell you, but in the absence of direction from him, the battlefield zero at 50 is the way to go. Forever. |
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For what kind of round is this? What specs on gun? |
| Are you really limited to sighting in at 25 yards? Molon's chart looks like it puts you at 1.2in low at 25yds, but I always try to eyball it about 1in low at 25–– then CONFIRM and refine at 50 dead center, then confirm again that I am grouping tightly, directly above poa at 100 |
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Why not just do it like we do in the Army and Zero with your 25m target at 25m?
It Makes perfect sense to me, this is the way me and my fellow US Army regulars do it and we have no problems hitting every target between 25 and 300 meters aiming at center mass, infact i rarely ever miss and qualify expert every time. Just set your little US Army 25m target up at 25 meters, aim center mass of the little black silhouette and adjust your sights until your shot group is within the little circle in the center of the silhouette, its really quite simple, I dont understand why you would want to use it at 50meters. You do understand that the little silhouette on the US Army 25m target will equal the exact size as a full size silhouette at 300m correct? If you set that target up at 50 meters it will effectively look like its at 600m, good luck seeing and hitting that without magnification. |
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Quoted:
Not this one. It needs to already be zeroed. I really appreciate anyone's help. If the instructor requires you to show up zeroed (a good idea, in my opinion, as zeroing eats up valuable instruction time) then he probably also recommends a zero. If he doesn't have a recommended zero (100m zero, Santose zero, etc...) then he probably just wants you to pick one and have a good zero when you show up. |
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Quoted:
Why not just do it like we do in the Army and Zero with your 25m target at 25m? As Molon pointed out the 25M zeroing method is pretty piss-poor, with the 50YARD zero being a much flatter. But there are other reasons. 1) Most public/private ranges don't have a 25M setting, so you have to 'settle' for 25y (an 8% difference). 2) Most public/private ranges DO have a 50y target setting location 3) Even with the 25M zero you need to adjust your sights (8/3+2 for the A2 sights, or the L aperture for the A1 sights). This is problematic for the BUISes without elevation - so the 50y again works better (simple POA=POI) with a flatter tractory. It Makes perfect sense to me, this is the way me and my fellow US Army regulars do it and we have no problems hitting every target between 25 and 300 meters aiming at center mass, infact i rarely ever miss and qualify expert every time.
Frankly the Army as low standards of marksmanship - which is why that zero works (I too have qualified 'expert' with my M16A1 back in the day). Most civilian courses hold you to a higher standard and you'll have a tougher time making that standard with the rainbow like trajectory of the 25M zero. Why make it harder - when the 50/200 offers a nice flat (predictable) trajecotory? If you set that target up at 50 meters it will effectively look like its at 600m, good luck seeing and hitting that without magnification.
I don't have a problem, then again I (like many on this board) have been trained to a higher standard... 
But when zeroing at 50y why would you use the Army 25M targets? Any target will do as you're aimint point of impact to point of aim - but if you like the Army targets I do have them blown up to scale (both the A2 and M4 versions) for use at 50y. |
| All I know that in the Corps, when you use the 25 Meter BZO target, and if you are using A2 sights, set it at 8/3 put your BZO target at 36 yds, shoot at center mass and when your group is at center mass then you are GTG, then keep your elevation knob to 8/3 shoot at a 300yd target, you should be hitting at center mass, but when you go to the 200yd target set the elevation knob to 8/3-2, it should be dead on, also remember that when you deal with elevation from the 200 back, you have to adjust your front sight post to compensate, the bullet path is the same at 36yds and 300yds that is if you are using 62 grain ammo, 55 grain is different, I only shoot 62gr because both my barrels are 1/7 twist. |
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