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I have a gen 1 and would love to change some things too. I'm anxiously awaiting the rest of this report. Much appreciated.
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You're the first person I've know to be able to successfully remove that gas block. People I've spoken to said it was press-fitted and was pretty much impossible to remove without damaging something. Great job! I'll be following this thread closely. I have a SIG516 Gen2 in FDE.
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Yeah, I don't know why Sig does not sell these parts and the wrench. I think its a dumb move because I think that some people don't buy the rifles for that reason. And because they could make money selling parts too. I have a gen 1 and I'm happy with it but the OCD in me would buy the spare parts and wrench just for the heck of it for some future emergency that will never come. More money in their pocket if the sold them. And heck, I might get bored and change out the gas block and piston to a gen 2 if they sold it.
Eventually I bet some after market manufacturer will make the wrench and parts and they will make money that Sig could have made. |
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Sorry, not much to update today. Busy with some traveling today and tomorrow. Compared barrel nuts today and have some ideas. I did some quick mock ups using both barrel nuts. Ill post some comparative pics hopefully tomorrow night when back at home.
Removing gas block was a pain and its definitely pressed on. As mentioned earlier both the pins and block were not easy to remove. I had to press the gas block off very carefully. I plane to hone the gas block this weekend so that future installation and removal will be much easier. My buddy is powder coating the barrel nut wrenches today. He wanted a practice project since he just got into it. Ill post pics of those soon as well. Any ideas on rail options? Thinking about the Centurion with carbine cut out or maybe a Samson similar to how Adams Arms does it if I can find a Samson rail. Open to ideas. As far as other manufacturers catching up, I've been waiting a long time for options and so far absolutely nothing. Couldn't wait any longer. BigBrakes76 |
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Sig doesn't want to make it easy to disassemble or sell the tools for disassembly because they don't want people doing what you're doing, screwing it up, and then trying to get Sig to pay for the fix.
You seem to have a clue of what you're doing, but a lot of people will wrench on stuff, break it, then expect the company to foot the bill for their screwups. Makes sense to me not to sell the tools for the DIYer as that basically gives a green light to allowing people to do their own mods. As for the gasblock being hot... well that's part of what sucks about piston uppers. The gasblocks get incredibly hot because the gas is vented there and does not cool as it vents in the receiver. I'll be interested to see what rails you find work with the 516. The barrel nut is sized to allow the oprod to fit over it, so I'm not sure what forearm setup will have a small enough barrel nut to fit the op-rod but will still allow the oprod to fit under the rail itself. |
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Sig doesn't want to make it easy to disassemble or sell the tools for disassembly because they don't want people doing what you're doing, screwing it up, and then trying to get Sig to pay for the fix. You seem to have a clue of what you're doing, but a lot of people will wrench on stuff, break it, then expect the company to foot the bill for their screwups. Makes sense to me not to sell the tools for the DIYer as that basically gives a green light to allowing people to do their own mods. As for the gasblock being hot... well that's part of what sucks about piston uppers. The gasblocks get incredibly hot because the gas is vented there and does not cool as it vents in the receiver. I'll be interested to see what rails you find work with the 516. The barrel nut is sized to allow the oprod to fit over it, so I'm not sure what forearm setup will have a small enough barrel nut to fit the op-rod but will still allow the oprod to fit under the rail itself. Without getting into my credentials, ill simply say I have more than enough know-how and skill to pull off a project this simple. And as far as screwing up my Sig rifle, that's the whole concept behind "my rifle". The second I decided to put the upper in a vise I made the conscience decision to void my warranty. My Sig is one of many rifles I have in this platform and therefore disposable to me in the long run should I over do my skills as unlikely as that is. To me, what I'm doing is on par with those that have trigger work done to their 1911s etc. I'm simply enjoying a cross between my hobby and profession. And I've clearly stated that a project like this isn't for the average garage builder. I understand your point about people screwing things up out of stupidity and wanting someone else to pay for and fix it. Democrats come to mind. And that's a shame but that's not me. I know what I'm doing and I would never expect Sig to fix my rifle. With the vast variety of ARs I've owned in both DI and piston configurations I understand why my rifle gets hot where. Out of the piston rifles I've owned (POF, LWRC, Adams, LMT and the 2 Sigs) the Sigs are hands down hotter and I'm not talking about actual measured temp. I'm talking about felt heat with how I hold and use the rifle. Again, something I defined as purely my opinion in my opening post. It's my opinion that there is a better option for me by changing handguards. Lastly, I've taken multiple and incredibly detailed measurements of both the Sig and standard barrel nuts. For the person who doesn't deal in numbers that far right of the decimal point, the barrel nuts are the same diameter. Only difference is in depth and of course the splines on the nut. Where the op rod functions and rides across the top of the barrel nut an idiot with a file and dremel could flatten the splines of a standard barrel nut and actually make it work just fine with Sigs system. And as far as the handguards, mods to any # of handguards is a simple option (for me ) but for now I'm keeping it simple and sticking with a design that i know will work with little fuss. I also realize that any of the handguard manufactures out there may not want me messing with their product and in doing so will be voiding their warranties etc. I'm fine with that. Ultimately there are many things in life that come from the factory in certain configuration for multitudes of reasons. Usually because bean counters and lawyers said so. But thankfully creative people keep finding ways to squeeze more out of their products. The "aftermarket" business is alive and well in industries that I care about. BigBrakes76 **Update/After thought - There's also a reason my photos are very vague and only show some basic details to clarify my descriptions. I do not intend for this to be a "how-to" thread. It's simply me documenting the changes I'm making. |
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Sig doesn't want to make it easy to disassemble or sell the tools for disassembly because they don't want people doing what you're doing, screwing it up, and then trying to get Sig to pay for the fix. You seem to have a clue of what you're doing, but a lot of people will wrench on stuff, break it, then expect the company to foot the bill for their screwups. Makes sense to me not to sell the tools for the DIYer as that basically gives a green light to allowing people to do their own mods. As for the gasblock being hot... well that's part of what sucks about piston uppers. The gasblocks get incredibly hot because the gas is vented there and does not cool as it vents in the receiver. I'll be interested to see what rails you find work with the 516. The barrel nut is sized to allow the oprod to fit over it, so I'm not sure what forearm setup will have a small enough barrel nut to fit the op-rod but will still allow the oprod to fit under the rail itself. Without getting into my credentials, ill simply say I have more than enough know-how and skill to pull off a project this simple. And as far as screwing up my Sig rifle, that's the whole concept behind "my rifle". The second I decided to put the upper in a vise I made the conscience decision to void my warranty. My Sig is one of many rifles I have in this platform and therefore disposable to me in the long run should I over do my skills as unlikely as that is. To me, what I'm doing is on par with those that have trigger work done to their 1911s etc. I'm simply enjoying a cross between my hobby and profession. And I've clearly stated that a project like this isn't for the average garage builder. I understand your point about people screwing things up out of stupidity and wanting someone else to pay for and fix it. Democrats come to mind. And that's a shame but that's not me. I know what I'm doing and I would never expect Sig to fix my rifle. With the vast variety of ARs I've owned in both DI and piston configurations I understand why my rifle gets hot where. Out of the piston rifles I've owned (POF, LWRC, Adams, LMT and the 2 Sigs) the Sigs are hands down hotter and I'm not talking about actual measured temp. I'm talking about felt heat with how I hold and use the rifle. Again, something I defined as purely my opinion in my opening post. It's my opinion that there is a better option for me by changing handguards. Lastly, I've taken multiple and incredibly detailed measurements of both the Sig and standard barrel nuts. For the person who doesn't deal in numbers that far right of the decimal point, the barrel nuts are the same diameter. Only difference is in depth and of course the splines on the nut. Where the op rod functions and rides across the top of the barrel nut an idiot with a file and dremel could flatten the splines of a standard barrel nut and actually make it work just fine with Sigs system. And as far as the handguards, mods to any # of handguards is a simple option (for me ) but for now I'm keeping it simple and sticking with a design that i know will work with little fuss. I also realize that any of the handguard manufactures out there may not want me messing with their product and in doing so will be voiding their warranties etc. I'm fine with that. Ultimately there are many things in life that come from the factory in certain configuration for multitudes of reasons. Usually because bean counters and lawyers said so. But thankfully creative people keep finding ways to squeeze more out of their products. The "aftermarket" business is alive and well in industries that I care about. BigBrakes76 **Update/After thought - There's also a reason my photos are very vague and only show some basic details to clarify my descriptions. I do not intend for this to be a "how-to" thread. It's simply me documenting the changes I'm making. Wasn't trying to come off as a dick. The project sounds very cool, I'll be watching it. |
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Bravo sir. A longer rail that wraps around and extends beyond the gas block is what I've been looking for since day 1...
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The PRI Delta handguard may work. Not sure about clearance for the OP Rod into the receiver, but youll have plenty of clearance past the barrel nut. Which is none of your concern, but PRI's barrel nut might help.
Just an idea. |
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The PRI Delta handguard may work. Not sure about clearance for the OP Rod into the receiver, but youll have plenty of clearance past the barrel nut. Which is none of your concern, but PRI's barrel nut might help. Just an idea. This was my exact question in a previous thread, good recommendation on a barrel nut to clear the oprod. |
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The PRI Delta handguard may work. Not sure about clearance for the OP Rod into the receiver, but youll have plenty of clearance past the barrel nut. Which is none of your concern, but PRI's barrel nut might help. Just an idea. Appreciate all ideas here. I like the weight and ergonomics of the PRI but it doesnt wrap the gas block at all which is one of my main goals with this project. BigBrakes76 |
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I really like what I'm seeing here. Keep it coming. Us SIG516 owners appreciate this.
I like the looks of the C4 better, but I was reading the Samson STAR C-EX-P is piston compatible straight out of the box. Not sure if that makes a difference. Edit: Also, do you know what the exact diameter of the gas port on top of the barrel needs to be to cycle the rifle reliably when you cut the barrel down to 14.5”? I know a guy on here had to change the diameter of the hole when he cut the barrel down to 10". |
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I really like what I'm seeing here. Keep it coming. Us SIG516 owners appreciate this. I like the looks of the C4 better, but I was reading the Samson STAR C-EX-P is piston compatible straight out of the box. Not sure if that makes a difference. You're right that the Samson would be closer to immediate bolt up and ready to go. It's upper groove/channel seems larger and doesn't have anything to remove best as I can tell. But it's a lot heavier and just doesn't seem as overall appealing to me. But for those without access to a full machine shop and equipment, it may be a better option. I wish the wife would let me purchase several of the options I've been eyeing. The Samson's also seem a little harder to come by right now. Not sure if that's because of their lawsuit and bankruptcy or what. Optics planet had them. Only place I saw. I really like the DD rails. If the RIS II MK18 FSP was black it would prob be my first choice. Mounting would require some serious mods that most can't do easily but I think it would be awesome. The barrel nut would require some work for op rod to fit and then the mounting nut that seats against receiver would need some mods. Only way around modding that nut would be to mod op rod and shorten that back black piece that is pinned to op rod and seats against receiver. Appealing and I even accept the work as a challenge but its getting riskier and more $$$$. Now that I've honed the gas block, I'm confident I could even get the DD lite FSP one piece rail to work. Like I said, I've been agonizing over this and have changed my mind several times. I've researched to the point of driving my wife nuts. I just told her I was researching a better CHF'd barrel for this project and I got the "look". ***Side note: Aaron556, I see you're from OH, I'm born and raised in Cincy. Hasn't been home for a long time now but I miss it a lot. Bengals flag hangin in the garage. Don't judge me the rest of you! BigBrakes76 |
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I really like what I'm seeing here. Keep it coming. Us SIG516 owners appreciate this. I like the looks of the C4 better, but I was reading the Samson STAR C-EX-P is piston compatible straight out of the box. Not sure if that makes a difference. You're right that the Samson would be closer to immediate bolt up and ready to go. It's upper groove/channel seems larger and doesn't have anything to remove best as I can tell. But it's a lot heavier and just doesn't seem as overall appealing to me. But for those without access to a full machine shop and equipment, it may be a better option. I wish the wife would let me purchase several of the options I've been eyeing. The Samson's also seem a little harder to come by right now. Not sure if that's because of their lawsuit and bankruptcy or what. Optics planet had them. Only place I saw. I really like the DD rails. If the RIS II MK18 FSP was black it would prob be my first choice. Mounting would require some serious mods that most can't do easily but I think it would be awesome. The barrel nut would require some work for op rod to fit and then the mounting nut that seats against receiver would need some mods. Only way around modding that nut would be to mod op rod and shorten that back black piece that is pinned to op rod and seats against receiver. Appealing and I even accept the work as a challenge but its getting riskier and more $$$$. Now that I've honed the gas block, I'm confident I could even get the DD lite FSP one piece rail to work. Like I said, I've been agonizing over this and have changed my mind several times. I've researched to the point of driving my wife nuts. I just told her I was researching a better CHF'd barrel for this project and I got the "look". ***Side note: Aaron556, I see you're from OH, I'm born and raised in Cincy. Hasn't been home for a long time now but I miss it a lot. Bengals flag hangin in the garage. BigBrakes76 Awesome. I'm about 20 miles north of Cincy and watching the Reds game right now! Originally from Fairfield. Hopefully you'll offer your "services" to folks who aren't mechanically inclined like myself. I'm still astonished you got the gas block off. |
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The PRI Delta handguard may work. Not sure about clearance for the OP Rod into the receiver, but youll have plenty of clearance past the barrel nut. Which is none of your concern, but PRI's barrel nut might help. Just an idea. Appreciate all ideas here. I like the weight and ergonomics of the PRI but it doesnt wrap the gas block at all which is one of my main goals with this project. BigBrakes76 The have lengths up to 15". But Im not sure if the triangular shape will fit around your gas block. Maybe the round one might. But I dont have either one to look at, only going by pictures. It being carbon fiber, you can customize it how you like. Voiding warranties of course, but for the benefit of making it yours. Also, Diamondhead USA has a handguard that might work. They have extended lengths, and shape looks like it would give added protection on the underside near the gas block. No idea on their barrel nut though. Just tossing ideas out there. I think what your doing is cool, its nice to see people making things their own. Not afraid to scuff up their gear for the sake of personalization. |
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I have zero experience with the Ergo rail but I think this rail would work as well for the criteria I have. Think I'm still sticking with the Centurion but this would be a good option I believe.
Ergo Z Float Overshoot Rail BigBrakes76 |
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I am sooo tag'n this thread.
I want to change out the rail so bad on my 516, but no one makes one to fit b/c Sig decided to be difficult with things. I am looking for a handguard system that has the rail on the top, smooth on the sides and screw on sections similar to the one from Ruger for their piston or one like on the Troy Defense rifle. With the barrel nut being so long/deep, does it serf a purpose, like a stop for the piston? Could you cut down the spines on a standard nut to fit and have more options for rails? |
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I am sooo tag'n this thread. I want to change out the rail so bad on my 516, but no one makes one to fit b/c Sig decided to be difficult with things. I am looking for a handguard system that has the rail on the top, smooth on the sides and screw on sections similar to the one from Ruger for their piston or one like on the Troy Defense rifle. With the barrel nut being so long/deep, does it serf a purpose, like a stop for the piston? Could you cut down the spines on a standard nut to fit and have more options for rails? If you're wanting a handguard similar to a Troy and also wanting it to cover the gas block, that's gonna be an issue as the Sig gas block is very blocky. Not sure if you've seen the Samson Evo handguards on the Adams uppers but I'm thinking that would be closest to working. But you'd probably have to shave off bayonet lug at a minimum. As far as shaving down the splines where the op rod will travel on a standard barrel nut, that's the easiest and most likely way to go about things. (If you're capable of getting off the gas block and barrel nut) I may turn down Sigs barrel nut a little. We'll see what ends up working best. As to why Sig made things the way they did, only they can answer. It's my opinion that the rail/gas block area is one of the least desirable factors to the 516. More to come as I keep working on this project. BigBrakes76 |
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Quoted:As to why Sig made things the way they did, only they can answer.
They were copying Hk... half assed. |
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Quoted:As to why Sig made things the way they did, only they can answer.
They were copying Hk... half assed. Do tell. What did Sig copy from HK? |
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Lets keep things on track here. People are fiercely loyal to their brands and that's not at all what my thread is about. This is simply a customization project and in no way about one brand being better than another or a discussion on company philosophy etc.
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Quoted:As to why Sig made things the way they did, only they can answer.
They were copying Hk... half assed. |
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I apologize, that was poorly worded. It shouldn't be a surprise to see similar op-rod, and proprietary nut and handguard considering Sig used a former Hk employee. I don't own a Sig 516, but I love this thread! Back on topic...
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I apologize, that was poorly worded. It shouldn't be a surprise to see similar op-rod, and proprietary nut and handguard considering Sig used a former Hk employee. I don't own a Sig 516, but I love this thread! Back on topic... No apology necessary. I just want to make sure we stay on track here. We could discuss for days the benefits of company X's system over Y's. To me the issue, as I mentioned in the first post, is that everyone's is proprietary. When asked by friends who want to get their first AR and desire a piston AR I highly encourage them to get a quality DI rifle that meets the specs we've come to demand on ARFCOM and then if they fall in love, think about a piston rifle or upper for their next purchase. But you are right, back on track.... Did some preliminary prep and set up to cut and thread the barrel tomorrow. As long as time permits, that's the big thing I want to get done tomorrow. I did order the Centurion C4 with FSP cutout today. Feeling good about that. As soon as it gets in Ill take some immediate pics of how it will fit etc and then make sure it will indeed work. Ill document any mods necessary to get it to work. Only other accomplishment today was getting my precision barrel nut wrenches back from the friend who powder coated. There would be pics but he's not quite the perfectionist that I am and Im thinking I am going to blast the finish off tomorrow and just spray them myself with some rattle can. He laid the powder on a little thick and that made the pin/spline interface too tight and rubbed the paint off anyway. I had made the pins fit with a nice tolerance to get some good purchase on the barrel nut and the paint was just a little much. Anyway, just as a reminder, if anyone needs a wrench for the Sig barrel nut please let me know via message. If I get the barrel done tomorrow Ill post the pics. Thanks for following, BigBrakes76 |
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I apologize, that was poorly worded. It shouldn't be a surprise to see similar op-rod, and proprietary nut and handguard considering Sig used a former Hk employee. I don't own a Sig 516, but I love this thread! Back on topic... No apology necessary. I just want to make sure we stay on track here. We could discuss for days the benefits of company X's system over Y's. To me the issue, as I mentioned in the first post, is that everyone's is proprietary. When asked by friends who want to get their first AR and desire a piston AR I highly encourage them to get a quality DI rifle that meets the specs we've come to demand on ARFCOM and then if they fall in love, think about a piston rifle or upper for their next purchase. But you are right, back on track.... Did some preliminary prep and set up to cut and thread the barrel tomorrow. As long as time permits, that's the big thing I want to get done tomorrow. I did order the Centurion C4 with FSP cutout today. Feeling good about that. As soon as it gets in Ill take some immediate pics of how it will fit etc and then make sure it will indeed work. Ill document any mods necessary to get it to work. Only other accomplishment today was getting my precision barrel nut wrenches back from the friend who powder coated. There would be pics but he's not quite the perfectionist that I am and Im thinking I am going to blast the finish off tomorrow and just spray them myself with some rattle can. He laid the powder on a little thick and that made the pin/spline interface too tight and rubbed the paint off anyway. I had made the pins fit with a nice tolerance to get some good purchase on the barrel nut and the paint was just a little much. Anyway, just as a reminder, if anyone needs a wrench for the Sig barrel nut please let me know via message. If I get the barrel done tomorrow Ill post the pics. Thanks for following, BigBrakes76 If this Centurion C4 does workout would it still be necessary to remove the Sig 516 gas block or did you only remove it because you are experimenting? Would you have to remove it to install the Centurion C4 or does it come in two halves? |
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I don't want to say anything here with super certainty, but I don't think the Centurion will fit around the circumference of the Sig barrel nut as its slightly larger and the Centurion is intended for a standard barrel nut.
Once I have the rail in I will know for sure exactly what we have going on. And if that's the case, it will require removal of the barrel nut and in order to remove that the gas block will have to come off. I'm hoping by the end of the week I have a definitive answer for you and anyone else that cares. Barrel mods coming up momentarily! BigBrakes76 |
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I don't want to say anything here with super certainty, but I don't think the Centurion will fit around the circumference of the Sig barrel nut as its slightly larger and the Centurion is intended for a standard barrel nut. Once I have the rail in I will know for sure exactly what we have going on. And if that's the case, it will require removal of the barrel nut and in order to remove that the gas block will have to come off. I'm hoping by the end of the week I have a definitive answer for you and anyone else that cares. Barrel mods coming up momentarily! BigBrakes76 Sorry if I'm not quite understanding, but why does the gas block have to be removed FIRST in order to remove the barrel nut SECOND? That Sig barrel nut tool you made is horse-shoe in shape...doesn't it just slip over the barrel and into the grooves of the barrel nut without removing the gas block? I have a Sig 516 10" CQB upper on order directly through Sig. I'm curious how far beyond the gas block the Centurion C4 rail will extend and if it will cover the flash hider on the 10" barrel. If it does I won't be able to use it. |
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I don't want to say anything here with super certainty, but I don't think the Centurion will fit around the circumference of the Sig barrel nut as its slightly larger and the Centurion is intended for a standard barrel nut. Once I have the rail in I will know for sure exactly what we have going on. And if that's the case, it will require removal of the barrel nut and in order to remove that the gas block will have to come off. I'm hoping by the end of the week I have a definitive answer for you and anyone else that cares. Barrel mods coming up momentarily! BigBrakes76 Sorry if I'm not quite understanding, but why does the gas block have to be removed FIRST in order to remove the barrel nut SECOND? That Sig barrel nut tool you made is horse-shoe in shape...doesn't it just slip over the barrel and into the grooves of the barrel nut without removing the gas block? I have a Sig 516 10" CQB upper on order directly through Sig. I'm curious how far beyond the gas block the Centurion C4 rail will extend and if it will cover the flash hider on the 10" barrel. If it does I won't be able to use it. Answered your own question while I was typing. |
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Never mind. The barrel nut has to slipped off the front end of the barrel not the rear. Duh!
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Lets get this rail modded!!! You receive it yet? It shipped from Rainier on the 10th or 11th. Trust me, I'm watching the mailbox like a hawk!! Hoping today, maybe tomorrow that it will be here. |
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Centurion rail came in today. Have an event to attend tonight so just a few quick notes but ill have pics up tomorrow for sure if not tonight when I get home.
Things I already know from just a quick trial fit... - Will be ditching the Sig barrel nut. Won't work with Centurion rail without serious mod. - Standard barrel nut will need flat milled on area that op rod will travel over but this was known. - The rail mates up fantastic with Sig gas block! No need to trim or modify gas block. Lower section of rail looks perfect with bayonet lug. Very happy here. No mod'ing lower rail at all. - As expected I will need to slightly modify the section of upper rail that mates with barrel nut. One pass on the mill will fix this. - One thing that I did not expect, the tabs on upper rail that are for alignment to receiver will not work with Sig receiver. Pics will help you understand. The receiver on the Sig tapers down from the rail to barrel attach point. My other receivers are straight. Will have to mod receiver for tabs or remove tabs from rail. Unexpected but very simple fix here. Plan is to finish up the work tomorrow but I am very happy after the dry fit. Between shortening the barrel and upgrading the rail it is going to significantly improve things in my opinion. Ill try to have some pics up later tonight. BigBrakes76 |
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Quoted: Centurion rail came in today. Have an event to attend tonight so just a few quick notes but ill have pics up tomorrow for sure if not tonight when I get home. Things I already know from just a quick trial fit... - Will be ditching the Sig barrel nut. Won't work with Centurion rail without serious mod. - Standard barrel nut will need flat milled on area that op rod will travel over but this was known. - The rail mates up fantastic with Sig gas block! No need to trim or modify gas block. Lower section of rail looks perfect with bayonet lug. Very happy here. No mod'ing lower rail at all. - As expected I will need to slightly modify the section of upper rail that mates with barrel nut. One pass on the mill will fix this. - One thing that I did not expect, the tabs on upper rail that are for alignment to receiver will not work with Sig receiver. Pics will help you understand. The receiver on the Sig tapers down from the rail to barrel attach point. My other receivers are straight. Will have to mod receiver for tabs or remove tabs from rail. Unexpected but very simple fix here. Plan is to finish up the work tomorrow but I am very happy after the dry fit. Between shortening the barrel and upgrading the rail it is going to significantly improve things in my opinion. Ill try to have some pics up later tonight. BigBrakes76 IMHO, this is the key to the whole project. Looking forward to your next update! |
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Centurion rail came in today. Have an event to attend tonight so just a few quick notes but ill have pics up tomorrow for sure if not tonight when I get home. Things I already know from just a quick trial fit... - Will be ditching the Sig barrel nut. Won't work with Centurion rail without serious mod. - Standard barrel nut will need flat milled on area that op rod will travel over but this was known. - The rail mates up fantastic with Sig gas block! No need to trim or modify gas block. Lower section of rail looks perfect with bayonet lug. Very happy here. No mod'ing lower rail at all. - As expected I will need to slightly modify the section of upper rail that mates with barrel nut. One pass on the mill will fix this. - One thing that I did not expect, the tabs on upper rail that are for alignment to receiver will not work with Sig receiver. Pics will help you understand. The receiver on the Sig tapers down from the rail to barrel attach point. My other receivers are straight. Will have to mod receiver for tabs or remove tabs from rail. Unexpected but very simple fix here. Plan is to finish up the work tomorrow but I am very happy after the dry fit. Between shortening the barrel and upgrading the rail it is going to significantly improve things in my opinion. Ill try to have some pics up later tonight. BigBrakes76 IMHO, this is the key to the whole project. Looking forward to your next update! Holy sh*t, I'm getting uber anxious to see it now!!!! |
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Awesome work!!! We shall call this the Gen76. Wish I had your skills and equipment. Ill say it again. Awesome job.
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Great thread! Thanks for going into some of the finer details. Makes me wish I hadn't sold my 10.5" 516 upper. I think I am going to be picking up another one up shortly...
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Great thread! Thanks for going into some of the finer details. Makes me wish I hadn't sold my 10.5" 516 upper. I think I am going to be picking up another one up shortly... You totally should. |
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Great thread! Thanks for going into some of the finer details. Makes me wish I hadn't sold my 10.5" 516 upper. I think I am going to be picking up another one up shortly... I would LOVE to either SBR this rifle or purchase an upper already the length I would want. Unfortunately, I have no idea how to navigate the SBR process. I know NM is friendly but don't know where to start. I've been told go the trust route and been told to just apply. Not sure how to proceed. If I did, I think I would want to go with an 11.5" barrel. Wondering if I would have to upsize the gas port? Hmmmmm, got me thinking about things again. BigBrakes76 |
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Great thread! Thanks for going into some of the finer details. Makes me wish I hadn't sold my 10.5" 516 upper. I think I am going to be picking up another one up shortly... I would LOVE to either SBR this rifle or purchase an upper already the length I would want. Unfortunately, I have no idea how to navigate the SBR process. I know NM is friendly but don't know where to start. I've been told go the trust route and been told to just apply. Not sure how to proceed. If I did, I think I would want to go with an 11.5" barrel. Wondering if I would have to upsize the gas port? Hmmmmm, got me thinking about things again. BigBrakes76 I went the NFA Trust route. If I can do it anyone can. It was very easy. Watch this video and it will walk you through the steps: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z6ONqI3_QOI Went with a 11.5" barrel on my DI. I know for a FACT you would have to alter the diameter of gas port hole in the barrel if you went that short. Someone on here sent their SIG 516 away to get the barrel chopped down to 10.5" and wrote about it. Wish I could find the original thread. |
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