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Posted: 1/26/2010 11:04:39 AM EDT
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My DPMS .308 w/ forward assist "style" flat top receiver is giving a new problem. Have had the rifle for a few years and it is well broken in and has never given me any cycling problems. The previous owner had a couple broken bolt catches and extractors. He was shooting loads that were too hot for the rifle and the extractor was taking a beating. Anyway on to the problem.
On occasion the last round will not eject and will stay inside the upper and turned around backwards. Thanks UPDATE: I changed out the ejector spring. The new one is somewhat stronger. We'll see if it makes a difference. |
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Quoted:
On occasion the last round will not eject and will stay inside the upper and turned around backwards. All I need to know, Pull back on the charging handle, and confirm that the face of the bolt does not retract back past the back edge of the ejection port. Next, pull the bolt and cam a spent round off the extractor to confirm that the ejector is moving cleanly (with a great deal of spring tension) in and out of the bolt without any kind of binding. Now pull the extractor and check both the ends of the grabbing claw, and the rim releif channel just before it (the ends of the channel). If milling burs are founds, remove them. Before you go to reinstall the extractor, add a #60 O ring around the extractor spring to add more tension to the spring for testing. Now go out and load only a single round into a mag, insert and charge the round (leaving the empty mag in the rifle) and fire the rifle. If the bolt locks back on the mag catch, then the rifle is full stoking. I all of the above is done (is correct) and the rifle runs without fault afterwards, the pull the 0 ring to confirm if a new stronger extractor spring is needed. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
On occasion the last round will not eject and will stay inside the upper and turned around backwards. All I need to know, Pull back on the charging handle, and confirm that the face of the bolt does not retract back past the back edge of the ejection port. Bolt nose retracts just behind the rear edge of the ejection port. Almost even with it, but still just slightly behind. Next, pull the bolt and cam a spent round off the extractor to confirm that the ejector is moving cleanly (with a great deal of spring tension) in and out of the bolt without any kind of binding. This is ok, but I changed out the spring anyway as the new one is somewhat stronger. Now pull the extractor and check both the ends of the grabbing claw, and the rim releif channel just before it (the ends of the channel). If milling burs are founds, remove them. No burrs and looks otherwise ok. Before you go to reinstall the extractor, add a #60 O ring around the extractor spring to add more tension to the spring for testing. Have not done this yet, but I do have the o-rings and new springs. Now go out and load only a single round into a mag, insert and charge the round (leaving the empty mag in the rifle) and fire the rifle. If the bolt locks back on the mag catch, then the rifle is full stoking. Rifle always locks back on last shot. I all of the above is done (is correct) and the rifle runs without fault afterwards, the pull the 0 ring to confirm if a new stronger extractor spring is needed. Ok. Thanks for the reply! |
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Quoted:
Took the rifle out this afternoon and looks like the ejection problem is fixed. The new ejector spring did the trick. The old spring seemed ok, but I guess not quite strong enough. Thanks for the help. The spring will eventually take a set. If it occurs again, resort to the o-ring. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Took the rifle out this afternoon and looks like the ejection problem is fixed. The new ejector spring did the trick. The old spring seemed ok, but I guess not quite strong enough. Thanks for the help. The spring will eventually take a set. If it occurs again, resort to the o-ring. O-ring goes on the extractor spring. He was working with the ejector spring. 
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