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Posted: 8/16/2010 1:53:35 PM EDT
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just replaced commercial buffer tube with a mil-spec buffer tube to put a new stock on one of my RRAs and tightened the shit out of the castle nut.
should I put the punch on this thing or is it good to go? |
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There seems to be some confusion here. Mil-Spec torque for a castle nut on a carbine receiver extension is 40 INCH pounds plus or minus 2 INCH pounds, not FOOT pounds!
Read more about the correct torque values for the AR-15 here: http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=315921 |
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Quoted:
There seems to be some confusion here. Mil-Spec torque for a castle nut on a carbine receiver extension is 40 INCH pounds plus or minus 2 INCH pounds, not FOOT pounds! Read more about the correct torque values for the AR-15 here: http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=315921 so it's 35-39 ft lbs for a rifle buffer tube but only 30 in. lbs. for a castle nut? that makes no sense. here's anotherthread on it. |
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Confusing to say the least, here is what Armalite has on their site:
http://www.armalite.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=15207020&Category=93c41860-4ca2-43ee-8ca9-dc09b1a5bf2c |
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Confusing to say the least, here is what Armalite has on their site: http://www.armalite.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=15207020&Category=93c41860-4ca2-43ee-8ca9-dc09b1a5bf2c Colt says 38-42 ft-lbs. |
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Anyone have a guide as to how to to this? I never did before. Not sure if I even have the rights tools, or how exactly to go about it. I have 2 lowers that have been total fine with hard use, but I'd like to do it anyway. [Deleted, links to this site are not allowed. -L] I staked my castle nut by using a drill to dimple the receiver end plate, then I used a center punch to have a small amount of material from the receiver end plate displaced into one of the slots in the castle nut. |
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Anyone have a guide as to how to to this? I never did before. Not sure if I even have the rights tools, or how exactly to go about it. I have 2 lowers that have been total fine with hard use, but I'd like to do it anyway. All you need is a prick punch or awl and a hammer. Position the pointy end where you want to dimple the end plate into the castle nut cutout and give it a good whack. 
(originally posted by Eric) |
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Still aint seen a TEST that shows that commercial tubes are BAD or weak? Back in the 80/90/ 2003 No one gave a shit here on AR15.com ABC I wish I was photo documenting several years back. I knocked my CAR stocked Bushmaster off a shooting bench and it landed butt down at an angle onto a concrete pad. The impact broke the plastic, (actually I think they were made out of some sort of Nylon material), early CAR style stock and bent the extension tube, right at the junction of the castle nut, bad enough that the rifle was rendered inoperable. At that time I replaced the collapsing stock with a standard A2 fixed stock. Here is a picture with that stock in place on the rifle. 
I took this picture a couple years ago just before I broke the rifle down and rebarrelled it as a standard A2 government profile full length rifle. I use Mil-Spec extension tubes from VLTOR exclusively now on collapsing stock rifles. Whether it will prevent the misfortune from happening again, I don't know, because I haven't knocked a rifle off a bench since that incident. Learned my lesson the hard way. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Confusing to say the least, here is what Armalite has on their site: http://www.armalite.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=15207020&Category=93c41860-4ca2-43ee-8ca9-dc09b1a5bf2c Colt says 38-42 ft-lbs. This I guess the whole inch pounds spec was a mistake. Colt corrected it with the Foot pounds. Inch pounds is barely hand tight, so Foot pounds makes more sense. 40 Foot pounds, + or - 2 pounds is the correct answer. |
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