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Posted: 8/15/2012 11:05:59 AM EDT
Anyone have any tips for removing a difficult set of staking pins from the triangle front sight/gas block? I am trying to push them through by using a punch on the smaller diameter side (left side when looking down the sights as normal). They just are not moving.
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I'll probably get drilled for this, but I used a dremmel to hollow out one of the staked ends which allowed it room to compress while punching it out. I can't see how this would release compression in a taper pin that was removed in the correct direction. |
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#1, make sure you are driving them the correct direction. Pins are generally removed the same direction as cases would eject, ie, punch on the port side and driving the pins to the starboard.
#2, taptaptap is generally a very bad idea. You may end up peening the pin in place that way. One good solid whack is generally what removes them. #3, heating the FSB can loosen the fit if they don't come out. #4 make sure you have solid support for the barrel/FSB when trying this. IE, on concrete floor vs on a workbench. The more the surface absorbs energy, the less there is to dislodge the pin. |
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I'll probably get drilled for this, but I used a dremmel to hollow out one of the staked ends which allowed it room to compress while punching it out. I can't see how this would release compression in a taper pin that was removed in the correct direction. I don't know, my old Bushmaster seemed to be a regular straight pin with both ends stacked. I'll post pictures when I get home. |
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It helps to have some way of immobilizing the barrel and fsb. Assuming you don't have the fixture made for this, a little work with a piece of 2X4, and you can make something. Look at the fsb pins and make sure you are going to be hammering on the correct side, normally they are driven out from the left side (muzzle forward) to the right. A taper pin punch is the correct punch to use, lacking that, choose a punch which is in good shape and closest to the correct size. Lastly a BFH is a necessity, I like my 48 oz. ball peen for the job.
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1. Provide absolutely solid support for the barrel / FSB. A concrete floor works nicely.
2. A buddy to help you hold the barrel while you hold the punch and swing the hammer. 3. If you have some portion of the pins protruding from the FSB then use a massive punch 3/8 to 1/2" diameter and a really big hammer. 4. Hit the pins hard. Don't just tap on them, they will flatten if you do and you will have great difficulty getting them out. |
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Sometimes they coat them after being installed, which doesn't help. You'll want to get the front sight tower really braced in, there's a block you can buy that will hold it. And then pound the crap out of it. I am not sure what a BFH is. Using acronyms without explaining the full term at least once doesn't work for a newbie. I did a search on brownells.com and didn't find anything coherent to indicate what it is. Looks like I may need a bigger hammer. I have been using a standard claw hammer and from what ppl are saying here it is not big enough. Guessing something closer to a small sledge. The other thing I noticed is that I got a standard set of Craftsman punches but they are getting dented by the pins. Do I need to get special punches or is Craftsman quality fallen that low? |
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This wouldnt be a PSA rifle would it?... I broke 2 punches trying to get mine out...BFH is the way to go! Yes it is, now if only someone would tell me what a BFH is since everyone is using it and not telling me what it means I am guessing it is fictional. |
| After my 2nd punch broke i used an oversized punch to get the pins flush then use the correct size to finish punching them through... My broken punch still had 3/4s of an inch that wasnt broke off and it made it perfect to punch them out... Just keep beatin on em... They will give sooner or later... |
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Are you wanting to keep the FSP for future use? I usually like to keep the parts I take off just because you never know what you end up doing but in this case I don't need to keep it in good condition. I think I know what you are going to suggest and I am already thinking of grinding down the pins to at least flush level to make them easier to work with. I plan on putting on a piston system with a new gas block so keeping the old stuff is not needed. |
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Are you wanting to keep the FSP for future use? I usually like to keep the parts I take off just because you never know what you end up doing but in this case I don't need to keep it in good condition. I think I know what you are going to suggest and I am already thinking of grinding down the pins to at least flush level to make them easier to work with. I plan on putting on a piston system with a new gas block so keeping the old stuff is not needed. Ya, thats pretty much what I was going to suggest. I cut down into the pins the full length of both pins then they just slid out. |
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OK so I ground the pins down making a slight divot into the FSB then used a roll pin punch (has a rounded nub on the end) to start the pins moving then finished up with a normal punch that fit the hole. Now I have to get the Sight loosened up. I guess somewhere in the process it is hanging up on the barrel and doesn't want to move still. I took a few whacks at it wish a rubber tipped hammer but it didn't budge. Guess I am going to have to put it in the vise and see if I can twist it out but not sure if I can get enough torque with just my hands. |
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I have all the proper tools and what not to remove the taper pins on FSBs.
But the last one I did was so tightly pinned in (a CMMG barrel circa 2008 or 2009), that I had to slaughter the FSB into pieces (to save the gas tube, it was also tightly stuck) using a rotary tool and cutting wheels to cut the bottom of FSB (parallel to the pins) to relieve the tension. After a couple careful hours of cutting, I was finally able to pound out the pins. This isn't the best method, but it works. The key here, is to be very careful because you don't want to cut your barrel in the process, which I did not. |
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