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Posted: 7/18/2006 10:41:18 PM EDT
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im new to ar 15s i bought dpms uppers complete and rra lowers stripped i put them togher myself and none of them function properly i have a total of 4 they fire one round and then i have to jack the bolt to cyce the next round ive been told everything from i need heavier buffers to wolf ammo sucks to its my gas system needing to be adjusted stopped by my local gun shop today was told it would be 100 $ per rifle (i have 4) and they couldnt teace me to trouble shoot it and this is a shop i frequent regularly i dont want to spend a fortune are any of you guys in central florida or can you help me via the site isreal kicks butt |
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Does the bolt carrier assembly cycle at all when the round is fired? Meaning does the bolt unlock and start rearward extracting the empty casing? If it extracts the empty casing, does it eject the casing out the ejection port? From your post I am understanding that you purchased 4 DPMS complete upper receiver assemblies, if so did you disassemble or do anything to these as far as disassembly or modifications? CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" Chief Instructor SLR15 Rifles TheDefensiveEdge.com |
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I'm going to go out on a limb here but would say that if you have four rifles that are having problems, then the problem is not the rigs, but you. Since these rifles where built as completed uppers with you just assembling the lowers, then you did not get instructions on how to clean and lubricate the rifles correctly. The information that you seek is listed as tacked threads in the Maintenance & Cleaning forum. Note: The correct cleaner and lube for the rifle is CLP (with the exception of the rifle bore which requires a copper type solvent). If you needed to buy CLP, then currently BreakfreeCLP is the least expensive when it comes to amounts less than a gallon. Also, neither copper solvent nor CLP will dissolve Polyurethane fouling (what Wolf ammo is coated with), and to remove this type of powderized fouling than can build up in the chamber/receiver extension area, you will either need to scrub it out of the chamber with a chamber brush, or use a stronger solvent like acetone to dissolve it and pull/remove it with a cloth type patch. As for needing a helping hand to go through the rifle, have you posted in the FL hometown forum to see if there are other members close to you to give you a hand? |
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#1 ar pistol 7 in barrel ejects but seems like trigger doesnt rest #2 ar m4 16 in barrel some times ejects sometimes does not when it does it seems like trigger does not reset #3 ar m4 6.8 16 in barrel same as #2 #4 ar a3 20 in barrel does not eject at all no sir i did not dissemble the uppers |
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Not ejecting may be a power issue of the Wolf ammunition not having enough energy to push the bolt carrier asembly enough to the rear to allow ejection. It could also be a lubrication/maintenance issue. The bolt carrier and bolt should be wet like a glazed donut with a lubricant. Do not leave lubrication in the chamber as it can cause casings to stick. The trigger not resetting can be quickly checked. Using a unloaded weapon perform a function check. First check visually and physically to make sure the weapon is not loaded. Ease the bolt carrier assembly forward. Put the weapon on safe and attempt to press the trigger. You should not get a trigger press as the weapon is on safe. Next take the safety off and press the trigger which should release the hammer forward to make contact with the firing pin. Hold the trigger to the rear. While holding the trigger to the rear manually cycle the action by pulling the charging handle rearward and easing it forward again allowing lock up on an empty chamber. Next slowly let go of the trigger an you should hear and feel a click, which indicated trigger reset. Repeat this function check process by pressing and holding the trigger again, then manually cycle the action while holding the trigger in its rearward position. When the action is back forward ease off the trigger and you should once again get a reset. If this function check indicates no trigger reset let us know and we can deal with that specifically as there could be a few possible issues then. CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" Chief Instructor SLR15 Rifles TheDefensiveEdge.com |
Quick trip down mermory lane on the lower builds, Disconnector springs installed with the large coil side down into the back of the trigger's slots under the disconnector. Trigger spring it's self installed with the solid section under the front of the trigger and the legs sticking out towards the front of the receiver, with the legs resting on the bottom of the receiver shelf pointing towards the muzzle. Hammer spring installed with the closed section on the back of the hammer, and the hammer spring legs resting on top of the trigger pin, and not on the receiver cavity bottom. Also, the the coil winds winding out towards the front of the receiver. All parts lubed before being installed, and the FCG's the .154 sets for the RRA receivers, and not the larger hole size .171 for the older colt lowers. Note: The bolt catch spring is smaller than the disconnector spring, and the give away on the disco spring is one side of the coils will be larger than the other side (again larger coil side goes down into the rear trigger slot). |
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that post made my day i think i realized my problem im sure i did not install the disconnector springs at all thank you for your help and for sharing your knowledge it is greatly appreciated i will check it out and let you know thanks again this was a very informative post thanks darryl |
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