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Posted: 2/7/2012 2:54:24 PM EDT
| first off...removing those damn FSB pins are a bitch..i tried and couldnt even get them to budge!!!! and then removing my flash hider is proving to be a pain in the ass!!! seriously all help is appreciated..trying to get these things off so i can add free float rail. |
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I have seen tapered fsb pins, try tapping them out from the other side. Otherwise, just keep giving it solid taps and eventually they will come out. Most are tapered and meant to go right to left, but I have seen some lately that meant to be driven out left to right. |
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Quoted: will do...i believe i am doing it right...i have the barrel facing the left side the the front side pointing up...hope that makes sense If you reload and you have some calipers, you can measure each side if the ol' eyeball gauges aren't working. Heck, even if you don't reload, Frankford Arsenal digital calipers aren't all that expensive. I've gotten a lot of use out of mine. FWIW when I messed with taper pins it was god awful, the pounding was insane. They came out shattered. But, at least I know they were VERY secure before I broke 'em. |
 this keeps me from swinging the hammer near my gun sometimes... If you have the chance to buy one of these things, they are awesome for banging on punches, you fit the punch in it like a nail, and squeeze the trigger.
I figured it out one day when I was trying to run a roll pin out of a trigger guard that someone jb welded in place, {luckily it was the only thing said person installed on the rifle, it was a stag that he traded into the gun shop after somehow getting the bolt stuck in the rear position, they paid him $400 for it and sold it to me for $440 as is, I stripped it and repaired the upper, it had a glob of goop on each side of the guard pin, so I chipped it off, only to see the pin glued in, I tried a hammer and punch and could tell I would break the lower before it came out, so I got the idea to try the impact hammer and it popped rite out.... |
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http://di101.shopping.com/images1/pi/6c/ca/3b/39341958-200x200-0-0.jpg this keeps me from swinging the hammer near my gun sometimes... ? |
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http://di101.shopping.com/images1/pi/6c/ca/3b/39341958-200x200-0-0.jpg this keeps me from swinging the hammer near my gun sometimes... ? Sorry, I added to the description, it works, that little hammer is strong, the little chrome piece inside the collar vibrates like an impact hammer, and it works to install or take out roll pins... I actually got a bearing carrier stuck in a jesse james frame I was building, its was all cockeyed and I new if I got the big hammer out I would break something, so I gave this thing a shot and it vibrated it rite out.... |
| I use a large punch that tapers evenly to a sharp point and a 5 lbs sledge. A couple of hits to break each pin loose then I use the appropriate sized punch and a regular hammer to finish the job. It can be a pain in the ass. You also need to make sure you brace it well before you hammer. I do it on the garage floor on top of 2x4's. |
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Quoted: Quoted: I have seen tapered fsb pins, try tapping them out from the other side. Otherwise, just keep giving it solid taps and eventually they will come out. Most are tapered and meant to go right to left, but I have seen some lately that meant to be driven out left to right. Who has backwards pins?  |
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Taken from the BCM forum:
From speaking with customers, it seems BCM FSB taper pins are harder to remove than some others. When we do it here, we can knock the pins free in under 60 seconds. Here are some basic pointers on the way we remove them. 1) It takes Two. You will need a buddy to hold the upper group stable as you pound out the pins. You will not be able to get a good concentrated force on the pins if the upper is wobbling around (even a little bit). 2) Action Jackson. You will need a couple of action blocks (see Brownells for a good selection). These will be great platforms to stabilize the barrel. Also get the Brownells FSB block. You may have to mod the shape of the FSB block if using a free float. 3) Installed from starboard side. Milspec FSB are drill and the reamed for taper pins. The reamer runs from the right to the left (pointing the muzzle at the bad guy). So BCM pins need to be removed from left to right. Cannot be done the opposite way. 4) Secure that carbine. Using action blocks and the buddy system secure the upper group so the left side is facing up. 5) Get a fat one. We do not use those small radius head punches to break the pins free. We use a much fatter punch (5/16”). It’s a meaty sucker. Lots to hang on to, and enables you to put some force on the hammer. Using a 5/16” punch and a 12oz hammer, give her a smack. Anywhere between 1 and 6 smacks, and the pin moves. All you want to do is to get it to move to about flush. 6) Grab a skinny one. Now get the tiny little 1/8” punch to push the pins out of the FSB. They are already broken free, this just drives the fully out. Tap, tap, tap. 7) Celebrate. You are done. Do the banana dance. Hope this info helps... Thanks! Paul |
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A nail punch is the best $1.50 tool money can buy for an AR-15, especially in regards to AR-15s.
Make sure that your barrel is secured either in a FSB block... or clamped onto a bench, so that all the force goes straight into the FSB pins. With the correct tools, FSB pin removal is a cinch... you don't even need that much force! Without the right tools though, it's an excruciatingly painful process, hahaha. |
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I have seen tapered fsb pins, try tapping them out from the other side. Otherwise, just keep giving it solid taps and eventually they will come out. Most are tapered and meant to go right to left, but I have seen some lately that meant to be driven out left to right. Who has backwards pins? My older Stag had pins installed back wards from the others. Not sure if they changed that in recent years, or if mine was a freak. |
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I have seen tapered fsb pins, try tapping them out from the other side. Otherwise, just keep giving it solid taps and eventually they will come out. Most are tapered and meant to go right to left, but I have seen some lately that meant to be driven out left to right. I was in the same situation as the OP and Packinheavy helped me out. That's all I have to add. |
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I've seen some bass-ackwards from colt also.
SABRE, maybe ? I can't remember. I use the brownells orange block, and a HEAVY hammer. One good SMACK is better than 100 whimpy ones http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=20727/Product/AR-15-FRONT-SIGHT-BENCH-BLOCK 
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are straight pins really that rare? I have a suspected Oly upper and the pins on the gas block and FSB (it's a dissy) are both straight. Both also required a good bit of force to get started, but once they started moving they moved. My RRA 9mm has straight pins. |
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are straight pins really that rare? I have a suspected Oly upper and the pins on the gas block and FSB (it's a dissy) are both straight. Both also required a good bit of force to get started, but once they started moving they moved. LMT also uses straight pins. |
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"Holy hell its hard!" REALLY?! I gave this a whole day and yet no response? Well here we go... That's what she said!!! Come on, you guys make this too easy. I'll leave the "pound the shit out of it" alone... Thank you! I opened this thread for the sole reason of posting just that! |
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"Holy hell its hard!" REALLY?! I gave this a whole day and yet no response? Well here we go... That's what she said!!! Come on, you guys make this too easy. I'll leave the "pound the shit out of it" alone... Thank you! I opened this thread for the sole reason of posting just that! Anytime man! I hope you got your FSB off. The right tools always help, no matter what you’re working on. 
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