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Posted: 11/15/2011 9:00:43 PM EDT
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how are the surefire scout lights? do they make good lights for a 5.56 rifle?
i got one in a trade that im thinking about slapping on my new build since it doesnt have a light yet, but i honestly dont know anything about them |
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The big issue is the latest KX2C head uses TIR optics that puts out a tight focused beam of light with very little spill. It's 200 lumens with an intense hotspot and a 2 hour runtime. The KL4 head was 100 lumens of awesome spill with a low tactical runtime of 1 hour and an hour and a half of depleting light. To be honest I don't like the Scout's output for a rifle, great for spotting but not good for peripheal vision. It's Surefire so it's definitely high quality, I just feel there are other much better alternatives. |
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Quoted:
The big issue is the latest KX2C head uses TIR optics that puts out a tight focused beam of light with very little spill. It's 200 lumens with an intense hotspot and a 2 hour runtime. The KL4 head was 100 lumens of awesome spill with a low tactical runtime of 1 hour and an hour and a half of depleting light. To be honest I don't like the Scout's output for a rifle, great for spotting but not good for peripheal vision. It's Surefire so it's definitely high quality, I just feel there are other much better alternatives. F04 diffuser makes the KX2C look like a KL4 with more output and better tint. |
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I like mine. The only thing I am not happy about is the tape that holds the tape switch in place. After a while it lets go. I'd prefer some sort of mechanical clip/clamp to hold it in place.
I also have a tail cap switch. I like that more than the tape switch. It's simpler. |
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Quoted:
I like mine. The only thing I am not happy about is the tape that holds the tape switch in place. After a while it lets go. I'd prefer some sort of mechanical clip/clamp to hold it in place. I also have a tail cap switch. I like that more than the tape switch. It's simpler. Get an SR07. It will fix your tape problem. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I like mine. The only thing I am not happy about is the tape that holds the tape switch in place. After a while it lets go. I'd prefer some sort of mechanical clip/clamp to hold it in place. I also have a tail cap switch. I like that more than the tape switch. It's simpler. Get an SR07. It will fix your tape problem. ...or LaRue index clips... 
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Quoted:
The big issue is the latest KX2C head uses TIR optics that puts out a tight focused beam of light with very little spill. It's 200 lumens with an intense hotspot and a 2 hour runtime. The KL4 head was 100 lumens of awesome spill with a low tactical runtime of 1 hour and an hour and a half of depleting light. To be honest I don't like the Scout's output for a rifle, great for spotting but not good for peripheal vision. It's Surefire so it's definitely high quality, I just feel there are other much better alternatives. What would be some good alternative options? |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
The big issue is the latest KX2C head uses TIR optics that puts out a tight focused beam of light with very little spill. It's 200 lumens with an intense hotspot and a 2 hour runtime. The KL4 head was 100 lumens of awesome spill with a low tactical runtime of 1 hour and an hour and a half of depleting light. To be honest I don't like the Scout's output for a rifle, great for spotting but not good for peripheal vision. It's Surefire so it's definitely high quality, I just feel there are other much better alternatives. What would be some good alternative options? You can still find Scoutlights with the KL4 heads on the EE and on fleabay. You can also buy just the KL4 head to replace the old Scout incandescent or KX2C head. |
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I've got a buddy who bought a VTAC L-4 (KX2C head, E2D body, Scout tail cap) for his duty carbine on my recommendation, but the light blinks off briefly under recoil. I wrongly assumed, because the Scout Light uses the same KX2C head that the L-4 is built with, that the head would have an opposing spring to prevent this blinking from happening since it's built for a weaponlight. It's distracting when you're trying to fire a rapid string when the target area is really dark and the light is blinking off and flickering as the batteries bounce. Malkoffs and TNVC's replacement heads have head springs–– it seems like a no-brainer. But the Malkoff M60/M61 don't have enough throw for rural patrol work, and the only TNVC head that looks like it might work is the TX-4, but its bias toward spill worries me that it won't have enough throw despite the extra lumens. The KX2C head is great but the blinking thing is a big problem. Is there something different about the Scout Light body that prevents this from happening or does the same thing occur with the Scout Lights under recoil? |
| Using two pairs of needlenose pliers very carefully stretch the TailCap spring contact a little. Not too much. Never pull at the spring as you'll likely damage or break the switch. Also, check that the bezel is screwed on tight. No need to be excessive though. Third, are USA made batteries like SureFire SF123As being used? Chinese CR123As may be off-spec. |
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Quoted: Using two pairs of needlenose pliers very carefully stretch the TailCap spring contact a little. Not too much. Never pull at the spring as you'll likely damage or break the switch. Also, check that the bezel is screwed on tight. No need to be excessive though. Third, are USA made batteries like SureFire SF123As being used? Chinese CR123As may be off-spec. Stretching the spring is the first thing I did; it shortened the blink a little but not much. It won't break the tailcap btw, the spring just snaps over an aluminum post milled into the cap body, snaps back on with some effort. Everything is tight, and they're Surefire batteries. The problem is that if you take the tailcap off the batteries can slide back and forth a little in the tube. Even if they couldn't there's a potential that under recoil the little terminal button on head will start to dent into the battery terminal and loosen things up. Seems ridiculous not to make it with a head spring. Surefires are built well, but little things like this make me go WTF. Do you know if this issue occurs on the M600 and M300? It seems like it would have to unless there's something different inside the tube.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I like mine. The only thing I am not happy about is the tape that holds the tape switch in place. After a while it lets go. I'd prefer some sort of mechanical clip/clamp to hold it in place. I also have a tail cap switch. I like that more than the tape switch. It's simpler. Get an SR07. It will fix your tape problem. Just installed the SR07 on a Sig carbine and I agree completely. Here's the old setup: 
The new switch now resides on a small rail on the left side of the HG, and I can reach it easily shooting strong or weak side 
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