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12/25/2011 3:11:47 PM EDT
first off, has anyone had sucess in tracking a take down pin detent once it is launched at light speed,,LMAO that suckers gone..
also, had problems getting bolt catch roll pin installed. I have the bolt catch punch and I lubed the pin up but still had to beat the crap out of it to go in. it was a fight all the way to get the pin in flush.
12/25/2011 3:30:39 PM EDT
[#1]
A magnet might help depending on what those pins are made out of. Hit the light switch and break out a flashlight. I had to find mine like that haha. Some people install those while sitting in the bathtub (drain plugged, curtain shut) to better keep track of em.

As far as the bolt catch...it's tricky. It's much easier to drive the pin in going from the rear to the front of the receiver rather than the other way. I ended up using the vice grip technique. Made life easy.
12/25/2011 5:13:32 PM EDT
[#2]
There is a detent tool for the pivot pin.
12/25/2011 5:18:25 PM EDT
[#3]
put that detent pin in while in a plastic bag, won't fly too far then!
12/25/2011 5:39:31 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
put that detent pin in while in a plastic bag, won't fly too far then!


Im betting it would take a very big plastic bag for him to fit in,lol.(just a lil humor,just hadda say that)
12/25/2011 6:28:42 PM EDT
[#5]
I'm pretty sure that has happened to every first time builder. I have no advice to give that hasn't been posted, however. Patience, a magnet, and a flashlight.
12/25/2011 7:05:52 PM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
I'm pretty sure that has happened to every first time builder. I have no advice to give that hasn't been posted, however. Patience, a magnet, and a flashlight.


Yea just hope that it doesn't shoot to far when it does take off because it'll prolly happen on every build
12/25/2011 8:09:09 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
There is a detent tool for the pivot pin.


Clevis pin.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/226782_.html&page=14
12/25/2011 8:30:31 PM EDT
[#8]
if you dont find the detent pin that luanched across the room...

YOU CAN just make a new one....    i have made a substitute detent pin out of a Rivot stock...  just you normal average Rivot or finish nail... if you still have the other pivot pin, use it as an example and then cut a standard rivot or finishing nail, and stone or file to the length and shape of the other pivot pin and then there you have it... problem solved...

other than that...  good luck trying to find it..!!!
12/25/2011 9:40:16 PM EDT
[#9]
First one I launched probably is in low earth orbit right now..never saw it again...second one I launched shot up to the ceiling and returned right back to the work bench, with an inch of where it left...happened so fast i was trying to figure out what the hell was bouncing around on the bench, then realized that detent was gone!!!!
12/25/2011 11:04:03 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:


As far as the bolt catch...it's tricky. It's much easier to drive the pin in going from the rear to the front of the receiver rather than the other way. I ended up using the vice grip technique. Made life easy.


Truth.
12/25/2011 11:31:06 PM EDT
[#11]
Old gearhead trick. Freeze the pin the night before. Work fast and it will go in easily. Vice grip works good but I just use a regular pair of pliers with tape on the tips once the pin is started. Doesn't require that much pressure.
12/26/2011 4:25:45 AM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
Old gearhead trick. Freeze the pin the night before. Work fast and it will go in easily. Vice grip works good but I just use a regular pair of pliers with tape on the tips once the pin is started. Doesn't require that much pressure.



This one I'll try next time.
12/26/2011 6:55:16 AM EDT
[#13]
When you are putting the bolt catch pin in place the front of the lower against something solid so it's not bouncing around on each strike of the hammer.  Use a small punch from the left (front) through the boss, the catch and other boss to hold everything in place while you install the roll pin from the opposite (rear) side.  A slab side roll pin punch is the easiest way I have found.  The vise grip method works, too, but watch out for the sharp teeth of the vice grips eating through your tape and damaging the left boss.
12/26/2011 7:58:03 AM EDT
[#14]
That pin is an eye-seeking-missle. If I haden't been wearing saftey glasses my first time I would be blind. The force when it hit thm was so much it knocked them sideways on my head and left a huge chip in them.

GL finding it, just go with a magnet
12/26/2011 8:03:00 AM EDT
[#15]
A wife or a kid and a magnet work great, but overall it is just easier to use an installation tool.
Mil-spec pins have an anti-corrosion coating. Looks like cadmium plating.
Roll pin holder punch, its like having a third hand.
12/26/2011 8:07:59 AM EDT
[#16]
Quoted:
When you are putting the bolt catch pin in place the front of the lower against something solid so it's not bouncing around on each strike of the hammer.  Use a small punch from the left (front) through the boss, the catch and other boss to hold everything in place while you install the roll pin from the opposite (rear) side.  A slab side roll pin punch is the easiest way I have found.  The vise grip method works, too, but watch out for the sharp teeth of the vice grips eating through your tape and damaging the left boss.


Are you still selling the lower tool kits?

I finally used the one I bought from you, and the front takedown pin tool and the Delrin block were EXTREMELY handy! The front takedown pin went in the first time, and the block supported the triggerguard ear in spite of me pounding on the darned DPMS roll pin.

I've also used the included punch for many different applications.

12/26/2011 12:06:03 PM EDT
[#17]
thanks for the great tips, I will try the pin freezing next time for sure. like I said I have the correct bolt catch punch. the one with the side milled off and it worked great, it was just that damn pin didn't want to go in

I do have the take down pin install tool from brownells, first time using it and the detent just got the better of me during the switch from the tool to the take down pin. I need to pay more attention with that. that detent will take advanage of you the second your mind wanders!!
12/26/2011 12:54:37 PM EDT
[#18]
Quoted:
thanks for the great tips, I will try the pin freezing next time for sure. like I said I have the correct bolt catch punch. the one with the side milled off and it worked great, it was just that damn pin didn't want to go in

I do have the take down pin install tool from brownells, first time using it and the detent just got the better of me during the switch from the tool to the take down pin. I need to pay more attention with that. that detent will take advanage of you the second your mind wanders!!


Just curious, but which brand LPK did you use?

I assembled a DPMS lower with a DPMS parts kit Friday night, and man, both the bolt catch roll pin and the triggerguard roll pin were difficult to install! Especially the triggerguard roll pin––I had to whack the shit out it to get it in. Surprisingly, I didn't break the triggerguard ear.

I've heard on here that DPMS pins are too big, and I believe it after that. Otherwise the LPK was pretty decent. The trigger is very nice.
12/26/2011 1:24:47 PM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
Quoted:
When you are putting the bolt catch pin in place the front of the lower against something solid so it's not bouncing around on each strike of the hammer.  Use a small punch from the left (front) through the boss, the catch and other boss to hold everything in place while you install the roll pin from the opposite (rear) side.  A slab side roll pin punch is the easiest way I have found.  The vise grip method works, too, but watch out for the sharp teeth of the vice grips eating through your tape and damaging the left boss.


Are you still selling the lower tool kits?

I finally used the one I bought from you, and the front takedown pin tool and the Delrin block were EXTREMELY handy! The front takedown pin went in the first time, and the block supported the triggerguard ear in spite of me pounding on the darned DPMS roll pin.

I've also used the included punch for many different applications.



Unfortunately, not here.  I use those blocks for a lot of different things though.  Glad it worked for you.
12/26/2011 1:30:01 PM EDT
[#20]
Quoted:
Quoted:
thanks for the great tips, I will try the pin freezing next time for sure. like I said I have the correct bolt catch punch. the one with the side milled off and it worked great, it was just that damn pin didn't want to go in

I do have the take down pin install tool from brownells, first time using it and the detent just got the better of me during the switch from the tool to the take down pin. I need to pay more attention with that. that detent will take advanage of you the second your mind wanders!!


Just curious, but which brand LPK did you use?

I assembled a DPMS lower with a DPMS parts kit Friday night, and man, both the bolt catch roll pin and the triggerguard roll pin were difficult to install! Especially the triggerguard roll pin––I had to whack the shit out it to get it in. Surprisingly, I didn't break the triggerguard ear.

I've heard on here that DPMS pins are too big, and I believe it after that. Otherwise the LPK was pretty decent. The trigger is very nice.



I'm using PSA lower and parts for my 7.62x39 build
12/26/2011 1:31:54 PM EDT
[#21]
I have never had a problem with a bolt catch roll pin, but I use a roll pin holder punch to start the pin.
Trigger guard roll pins seem to be universally tight, it is essential to support the lower at the ear on the bottom.
12/26/2011 1:52:42 PM EDT
[#22]
Quoted:
I have never had a problem with a bolt catch roll pin, but I use a roll pin holder punch to start the pin.
Trigger guard roll pins seem to be universally tight, it is essential to support the lower at the ear on the bottom.


I will keep that in mind, installing magpul guard later on tonight if I get some spare time.
12/26/2011 1:55:40 PM EDT
[#23]
Chuck Santose had a cat trained to retrieve detents & springs
12/26/2011 3:33:10 PM EDT
[#24]
Quoted:
Quoted:
thanks for the great tips, I will try the pin freezing next time for sure. like I said I have the correct bolt catch punch. the one with the side milled off and it worked great, it was just that damn pin didn't want to go in

I do have the take down pin install tool from brownells, first time using it and the detent just got the better of me during the switch from the tool to the take down pin. I need to pay more attention with that. that detent will take advanage of you the second your mind wanders!!


Just curious, but which brand LPK did you use?

I assembled a DPMS lower with a DPMS parts kit Friday night, and man, both the bolt catch roll pin and the triggerguard roll pin were difficult to install! Especially the triggerguard roll pin––I had to whack the shit out it to get it in. Surprisingly, I didn't break the triggerguard ear.

I've heard on here that DPMS pins are too big, and I believe it after that.


I no longer use DPMS LPK's for that reason. Even at $4.00 ea it was not worth the aggrivation.

FWIW Stag usually includes extra's of commonly launched parts in their LPKs.

12/26/2011 4:06:28 PM EDT
[#25]
You guys are working waaaaayyyy too hard to get the pivot pin in.

All you need is a "feeler gauge", (ask a gearhead) pick the thinnest one , or the one just above that  in thickness, slide the "feeler gauge" in between the pivot pin, and the lower, and your done.

Total time on a good day, about 30 seconds.

You don't have to buy anything, make anything, and if you don't have one, it should be extremely easy to borrow one.   Reason:  Before electronic ignition on cars, you had to set the points with a "feeler gauge", leaving 100's of thousands them now sitting in tool boxes.  Easy to buy one at a yard sale, etc. for virtually nothing.  When I went thru my dad's tools, I found 3 in there, all in perfect condition.

Don't make it harder than it has to be.  I would rather put in 10 pivot pin detents, than ONE bolt catch pin.  

I posted this several years ago, but we've had several new "classes" since then, so I guess it's time to post it again.

Bang-Flop
12/26/2011 4:39:32 PM EDT
[#26]
Or you can use a razor blade in lieu of the feeler gauge. It's what I used on my first build.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
12/26/2011 4:40:42 PM EDT
[#27]
Quoted:
You guys are working waaaaayyyy too hard to get the pivot pin in.

All you need is a "feeler gauge", (ask a gearhead) pick the thinnest one , or the one just above that  in thickness, slide the "feeler gauge" in between the pivot pin, and the lower, and your done.

Total time on a good day, about 30 seconds.

You don't have to buy anything, make anything, and if you don't have one, it should be extremely easy to borrow one.   Reason:  Before electronic ignition on cars, you had to set the points with a "feeler gauge", leaving 100's of thousands them now sitting in tool boxes.  Easy to buy one at a yard sale, etc. for virtually nothing.  When I went thru my dad's tools, I found 3 in there, all in perfect condition.

Don't make it harder than it has to be.  I would rather put in 10 pivot pin detents, than ONE bolt catch pin.  

I posted this several years ago, but we've had several new "classes" since then, so I guess it's time to post it again.

Bang-Flop


+1
Except I used a razor since it was closer than my feeler gauges.  This was my first ever build and i took me longer to get the detent into the hole than it did for me to get the take down pin pushed in.
12/26/2011 4:49:53 PM EDT
[#28]
DPMS lpk suck roll pins are crap buy Stag or RRA never had problem with theres
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