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Posted: 4/11/2004 4:10:58 PM EDT
| First off, I have only $200 to spend. I am looking at getting a set of the 2 piece yhm rails for my CAR so I can put a light on it. Brightflashlights has a package deal of a G2 w/fobus mount, shock isolated bezel and 6 batteries. Is this a good kit to get for an econimical light? Is the 65 lumens good enough? How does that translate to candle power? 6500 maybe? Also, for any of you that use them what is the best way to activate the light? Do you use a vertical grip to do this or use your thumb while holding the rifle? |
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Candlepower is a tricky rating, my understanding is it's an estimate of the focus of light not overall output. The lumens rating gives you a truer estimate of total output which can be more helpful. You see, you can take conventional lights like a 3C or 4C Pelican and get 12,000 - 15,000 candlepower but the beam is so tight it has no business being used for tactical purposes. High intensity lights like the SureFire series, certain Streamlight models, Pelican M6 & others offer a broader beamshot that is better rated in lumens and more useful for tactical purposes. I have a feeling you're pulling the 6,500 cp from the Streamlight Scorpion data?? If so, you'll find that the SF G2/6P type models that use the P60 lamp will matchup & slightly exceed the Scorpion's performance. The 65 lumens will certainly light things up far better than you expect; the beam will be much larger so you have better periphial vision of the area around your target. The vertical grip and light positioning debate is another can of worms but it's a little late for that discussion tonight. |
| I am in Iraq and have been using the G2 with a TDI mount. I do not have the shock isolated bezel. It has worked fine during use and has gotten banged around and still works great. The unit wouldn't supply lights so we bought our own. I have a SureFire weapon light at home but for various reasons, I am using the G2 here. I heard somewhere that the G2 lights had a batch of bad bulbs that would blow within one set of batteries. One of my guys had a bulb blow out right after he bought the light. He replaced it and has had no problems since. My platoon has about 25 G2 SureFire lights mounted and none have the shock isolated bezel and they are all working just fine both while shooting and while getting banged around getting in and out of the vehicles. They have enough light for most uses. I don't see the need for the shock isolated bezel but it certainly can't hurt. I would rather have the actual weapon lights but when my guys have to buy their own, I can't expect them to pay $200 or more to buy a light. We were able to get the lights and mount them for about $40 a piece (most used a 1 inch scope ring). Not too bad and certainly affordable on a junior enlisted's pay scale. |
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ColtRifle, first off, thanks for your service to our country. Second, it's nice to hear that the G2's are working out for you and your platoon. When I purchase equipment for my AR it's always reassuring to see that equipment being used in the field by our soldiers with good results. As a Desert Storm vet I know how weapons can get banged around in the field and how the average soldiers pay dosen't go far! Shit,14 years later I still can't afford $200 for a weapons light! I went with the G2, and I'm very happy with my purchase. [red]I'M JUST WAITING FOR BRIGHTFLASHLIGHTS TO GET THOSE AFTER MARKET TAPE SWITCHES AND SHOCK BEZELS IN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!![/red] twostepct: Here's my set up. YHM HG's with G2/Weaver 1" rings. I have a KAC vert grip on the way and will try out the tape switch method......SOMEDAY!!!!!!!! [img]http://www.hunt101.com/img/121498.jpg[/img] |
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Quoted: Quib, do you find it easier to trip the switch with your fingers than your thumb? I'm going with a vert grip and tape switch in the near future. In the config my rifle is in now, I just slide my hand down to activate the light. To reach the light sw with my thumb would require an angle mount which would drop the light down too close to the bottom of the handguard for my liking. What can I say, I was cursed with stubby thumbs! |
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I just ordered a custom G2 set up from brightflashlights. "Almost" everyone recomends 200 lumens for a weapon light, so here is what I got: G2 light Shock isolated bezel P91 lamp (9v/200 lumens) 6v to 9v converter after market tape switch/tailcap Now I have a 200 lumen dedicated weapon light that cost me a whopping $125!  I'll post pics when I get it mounted |
Heck 65 lumens buncing back to you from a white wall makes me sqint. |
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I have Glock's brand name light on my G22, and didn't know what to expect from it's 65 lumen rating having it be the first lighting tool I DIDN'T buy off the Wal Mart shelves or something. I was SHOCKED at how bright 65 Lumens was in my darkened house. That said, I use a 125 Lumen Surefire on my bushy, just because ;) |
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First off, thank you CR for your service for our country. You guys have serious gonads to do what you do. I think that the fact that a unit in Iraq is using G2s without shock bezels as weaponlights and have not had any problems speaks volumes. First, it sounds like the enherent flexibility of the nitrolon bodies are enough to cushion the lamps from damage from shooting and just plain getting banged around. Second, it disappoints me that you have to pay for your own weaponlights. Do you have to buy your own batteries too? |
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Thanks for the kind words. We appreciate all the support. The G2 that I have is starting to show some wear up by the light housing from getting banged around getting in and out of vehicles but it still works great. I wish the unit would supply actual weapon lights but they work fine and we are happy with them. I know that SureFire overbuilds things and that's a good thing but I'm confident in the G2 as a weapon light. We only had one bulb blow out of probably 40 lights in two platoons and it blew before even one set of batteries were used through it. It must have been defective because no other bulbs have blown. I would recommend it. We bought a bunch of batteries before we left because we didn't know if we would have any decent access to the batteries but, since I've been here, there hasn't been a problem getting batteries if we didn't have them stockpiled. In case anyone is wondering, the 123 batteries issued are the Kodak brand. We have not used them in any flashlights to date. |
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