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Posted: 12/16/2009 7:00:13 PM EDT
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The pin that came with the MagPul aluminum trigger guard seemed way too tight so i used the one that came with my LPK and after starting it with the roll pin punch I then used a c-clamp to press it in further and it is almost all the way with a tiny bit not pressed in (not sure how hard it will be to get it any further and this being my first one- I was afriad I would break an ear). Should I use the right size regular punch and drive it a little further till it sinks in a little- even on both sides? I hope the Bolt Catch roll pin isnt as hard to get in. I hope the Bolt Catch roll pin isnt as hard to get in. Also, the RRA lower seems to show every little mark on it from anything or any handling. I can remove the marks normally but it seems too dry like (if I'm describing it right), can I coat it with something before I assemble it to help this? I read somewhere on here about oil soaking into it to get uppers and lowers to match, I am wonderin g if I need to lightly coat mine anyway. Thanks      |
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I just put together that lower tonight for my new "Armalite-Eagle Arms" upper I got today.
I had exactly the same problem with the pin and the finish. The pin was too darn tight and I was nervous about hurting something. I got it in but was sweating, not wanting to break anything. As for the finish, I have some flat black touch-up made for AR's and such. I put on a coat or two, let it dry 24 hours, then oil everything up. The RRA looks much better with a nice coat of oil rubbed into the finish. |
| It'll hold the way it is, but if you want to seat it flush try a 3/32 punch. The 1/8 gets stuck sometimes. You still need to support the ears. To clean up the marks just wipe it down with CLP. Anytime the receiver is real dry, like when you use break cleaner it will look as if it is messed up. The CLP cleans it right up. |
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I used a nail set to get mine just below flush (equal reveal on both sides). Put a piece of masking tape over it if you're worried about dinging the finish.
For that matter, use plenty of masking tape anywhere you could possibly scratch the lower. It's especially easy to do when installing the bolt catch roll pin. Oh, and no, the BC roll pin isn't that tight. (At least mine wasn't.) |
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good I hope the bolt catch pin isn't as tight. Find out later today. I did use masking tape on it when I did the trigger pin, it worked good to protect the ear that was on the block for support. I will use plenty doing the bolt catch. I would like the trigger guard roll pin to be recessed a little if I can get it easy enough. I'm so nerveous that I will beak an ear off even though I support it. |
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I had the same problem. I got mine in further than you, but not alll the way. Here is what I wrote in my build post.
"The trigger guard roll pin was so tight that while tapping with a small hammer it got stuck just after the pin was thought the lower and into the trigger guard. I had to us a larger hammer with lots of force (yikes) to finish driving it in". Others suggested using an arbor press, which I don't have (yet). my post |
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Quoted:
I had the same issue. I just put an empty mag under the guard to reinforce the ear and used a small domed punch and a 4oz. hammer to finish the job. I despise TG roll pins so I've switched over all mine to cormorantslayer's method using button headed screws and Helicoils: http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=2&f=124&t=181279 I've even tapped a standard TG for my kinda retro carbine and used three of the Magpul setscrews to retain it. |
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I had the same problem with my build so I broke down and bought a roll pin punch set at Sears.
Only regret is I didn't get the smaller (3/32") punch. I really suggest the roll pin punch as it has the dome to assure you don't collapse the pin, also prevents the punch from slipping off. I was using a small tack hammer but I also had to use a larger hammer to drive it home, used a scrap 2x4 to support the ear and a quick clamp to hold the receiver to the 2x4. |
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Quoted: I had the same problem with my build so I broke down and bought a roll pin punch set at Sears. Only regret is I didn't get the smaller (3/32") punch. I really suggest the roll pin punch as it has the dome to assure you don't collapse the pin, also prevents the punch from slipping off. I was using a small tack hammer but I also had to use a larger hammer to drive it home, used a scrap 2x4 to support the ear and a quick clamp to hold the receiver to the 2x4. good idea, I could see the reg. punch slipping and scratching the lower up. I used a c-clamp to get it where it is but started it with a roll pin punch so it could not slip off at all (just cant go all the way down with those anyway). Quoted: I despise TG roll pins so I've switched over all mine to cormorantslayer's method using button headed screws and Helicoils: http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=2&f=124&t=181279 I've even tapped a standard TG for my kinda retro carbine and used three of the Magpul setscrews to retain it. Thanks. I wondered why MagPul didn't make them that way in the first place. I kept thinking there must be a reason I'm overlooking as to why it has to have a darn roll pin. I wish I hadn't even started it in now. I'm nerveous to take it back out and risk breaking an ear off when I only need a little more to drive it home. But I do prefer your method and might go for that if it doesnt seem to hard to get the pin back out. What is best to support the ear for pin removal? I tape the lower up but am nerveous to use anything but wood. I have plenty fabrication experience but am asking every little thing because I am so afraid to mess something up with this being my first AR build. I wish I had seen this could be done so I wouldn't have even put the pin in. Next time I wonder why something isnt done differently, I'm going to ask rather than assume there is a reason and go on. I would have been asking if you could do this very thing and why it isn't done that why by magpul. so I need 3x 5-40 button head screws (1/4" long) and 2x 5-40 heli-coils? what length heli-coils? locking or free running heli-coils? |
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Quoted:
Thanks. I wondered why MagPul didn't make them that way in the first place. I kept thinking there must be a reason I'm overlooking as to why it has to have a darn roll pin. I wish I hadn't even started it in now. I'm nerveous to take it back out and risk breaking an ear off when I only need a little more to drive it home. But I do prefer your method and might go for that if it doesnt seem to hard to get the pin back out. What is best to support the ear for pin removal? I tape the lower up but am nerveous to use anything but wood. I have plenty fabrication experience but am asking every little thing because I am so afraid to mess something up with this being my first AR build. I wish I had seen this could be done so I wouldn't have even put the pin in. Next time I wonder why something isnt done differently, I'm going to ask rather than assume there is a reason and go on. I would have been asking if you could do this very thing and why it isn't done that why by magpul. so I need 3x 5-40 button head screws (1/4" long) and 2x 5-40 heli-coils? what length heli-coils? locking or free running heli-coils? I'll check the length tonight, but they're from a cheap set I got off eBay - tap, tool and Helicoils. I think they're locking. I also have a refill pack from Granger. The nice thing about the Magpul TG is that the existing roll pin hole is already just about perfect size for the Helicoil - just tap the existing hole, thread in the Helicoil and off you go. With MOE TGs it takes me about two minutes. |
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I do these for Rainier. Uses the stock set screw in the front and 4-40 buttons in the back. 5-40 all around would probalby work but doesn't give you any slop if needed. They are sold out but I have 50 on the bench I need to finish and get back to them next week. Oh and I'm the originator of this idea.
http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=1237 
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Quoted: I do these for Rainier. Uses the stock set screw in the front and 4-40 buttons in the back. 5-40 all around would probalby work but doesn't give you any slop if needed. They are sold out but I have 50 on the bench I need to finish and get back to them next week. Oh and I'm the originator of this idea. http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=1237 http://www.rainierarms.com/img/shop/product/0a336cf8eb2c8585661a18eaec579758.jpg Great idea by the way. I would have looked to order one from them had I known before I ordered the MagPul one. Lesson learned though, I will ask about something next time. I honestly was thinking why are these trigger guards not threaded when I was about to install the roll pin. I might look for 4-40 then, cause once tight it shouldn't be able to move anyway. |
Regarding Bolt-Catch pins...This is for those of us who either don't have or don't know what specialized tools will make the job easier ...
When I install my Bolt-Catch pins I have nothing that will hold the Lower steady without messing up the finish. I take a piece of thin plastic and tape it to the lower right behind where I'm going to drive the pin so I won't scratch it there. Then I lightly tap the roll-pin partially into the hole before I ever pick up the bolt-catch, spring and plunger. In my case, (and I don't recommend this unless you're sure you understand what I mean) since my Lower is not secured, I actually lightly tap the roll-pin until it protrudes slightly into the slot for the Bolt-catch. Then I push the bolt-catch over it (after installing the spring and plunger) and am able to easily drive the roll-pin the rest of the way in. FWIW... |
| I remember checking out my friend's collection of ARs in California back in the early days of the Brady Bill. He had the done the screw modification to his standard TGs with a method that wasn't as fancy as the helicoils. He drilled out the TG to take a larger diameter roll pin and threaded the inside of the roll pin to 4-40. I asked him if I could have one and I still have it in my parts box. |
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Quoted:
I do these for Rainier. Uses the stock set screw in the front and 4-40 buttons in the back. 5-40 all around would probalby work but doesn't give you any slop if needed. They are sold out but I have 50 on the bench I need to finish and get back to them next week. Oh and I'm the originator of this idea.
http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=1237 http://www.rainierarms.com/img/shop/product/0a336cf8eb2c8585661a18eaec579758.jpg You 'da man, then - I knew it was too good of an idea to be original! |
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where all does everyone get these sizes from? Granger? etc... did you use regular inserts or tangless inserts? I have only used threaded inserts a few times in the past- a long time ago, never had much need for them that often so I'm not very familiar with them. |
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Sorry for the delay, I kept forgetting to look. I started with this set off eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290335556560 I have more Helicolils that I bought at Granger that appear to be identical - they're Helicoil item R1185-05. Hope this helps! |
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do you need a larger tap and are these the type of inserts that have a larger thread on the outside? I got a 4-40 and 5-40 tap today cause I didn't have those sizes, the magpul is still in the lower cause I want to make sure I got everything before I drive it out- but the hole in the stock trigger guard is way too big to use a 5-40 tap on, am I missing something here? What is the best way to support the lower to remove the roll-pin? I was afraid if I just sit it on a block if the pin would raise the lower a tiny bit rather than drive into the wood and cause an ear to break off (I am so afraid of that). |
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Use a 3/8" piece of wood with a hole drilled under the guard's roll pin. The thickness takes care of the problem you are worried about. The outer portion of the magwell and buffer tower lay on the flat surface. The 3/8" wood fits perfectly under the trigger guard area providing support.
Disregard the silver pin holder in the photo, use a punch to take the old one out. 
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Quoted: Use a 3/8" piece of wood with a hole drilled under the guard's roll pin. The thickness takes care of the problem you are worried about. The outer portion of the magwell and buffer tower lay on the flat surface. The 3/8" wood fits perfectly under the trigger guard area providing support. Disregard the silver pin holder in the photo, use a punch to take the old one out. http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/IMG_1502-1.jpg Thanks. I see your using some sort of plexi-glass for yours. Anyone have an answer about the threaded insert size (is the O.D. a different thread size to properly fit the trigger guard hole size?) |
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Quoted:
Anyone have an answer about the threaded insert size (is the O.D. a different thread size to properly fit the trigger guard hole size?) I'm using the tap that came with my threaded insert kit in the existing TG hole with no redrilling - it's just about a perfect fit. I've done both polymer and aluminum TGs this way. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Anyone have an answer about the threaded insert size (is the O.D. a different thread size to properly fit the trigger guard hole size?) I'm using the tap that came with my threaded insert kit in the existing TG hole with no redrilling - it's just about a perfect fit. I've done both polymer and aluminum TGs this way. your kit says 5-40 on the tap in the picture, but the 5-40 tap I bought is too small when I checked it in the stock trigger guard. So I'm not sure what tap size I need. |
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Quoted: Quoted: your kit says 5-40 on the tap in the picture, but the 5-40 tap I bought is too small when I checked it in the stock trigger guard. So I'm not sure what tap size I need. I think that's because it's a 5-40 Helicoil insert tap, not a 5-40 tap. yeah, I found out, you must have a 5-40 heli-coil tap just for that use. A tap & die set doesn't have a standard size tap that will be the correct size. you can get the trigger guard that has inserts in it with screws and all from rainier for about the same price as the heli-coil kit alone which doesn't include the screws obviously. |
| On your next build if you choose to use a standard pin just roll the insert end of the pin on a diamond lap to break the sharp edge, Then dip the end of the pin in grease of almost any sort. Place a wooden block under the pin portion of the receiver and you will find the pin enters easily........llc |
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