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2/13/2004 1:41:33 AM EDT
Can factory trigger parts be tuned to have a nice clean break? Or is it really that necessary to change to a match trigger? Will the difference worth the cost?
2/13/2004 2:52:31 AM EDT
[#1]
Here's 2 options:

15 Minute Trigger Job: [url]http://www.sargenthome.com/15_Minute_AR_Trigger_Job.htm[/url]

Polishing the trigger: [url]http://groups.msn.com/TheMarylandAR15ShootersSite/smoothenthetriggerpull.msnw[/url]

They may help ya out,
Mike
2/13/2004 11:00:38 AM EDT
[#2]
Hi [b]sunga_sy[/b],

Don't be put off by the long directions in the first link.  It is really much simpler than it looks.

The squared-end of the trigger mates to the short shelf at the back/bottom of the hammer.  Those are the surfaces to polish.  Before you start, remove the upper, hold your palm above the hammer to catch it, and dry fire once or twice (don't let the hammer needlessly smack the receiver.)  You can see how the hammer and trigger work together.

Examine the trigger and hammer, note how they are put together.  Remove the hammer pin, then the trigger pin, and remove each.  

Take a piece of 400 grit emery paper, place it on a smooth flat surface, and gently polish the end of the trigger surface.  GO EASY!  DON'T TAKE MUCH MATERIAL OFF!  All you want is to remove the grind marks left behind from manufacturer.  Also, take care not to round the edges, you want it left sharp.  Just a few strokes should do the job.

On the hammer GENTLY polish the small shelf that mates to the trigger.  GO EASY!  DON'T TAKE MUCH MATERIAL OFF, and as before, don't round the edge.  Just polish until the grind marks are gone, NO MORE.

Reassemble.  Doesn't take more than 15 minutes.  Shoot and enjoy.

C_M
2/13/2004 12:49:39 PM EDT
[#3]
I just use stock internals, with the power reduction spring set from [url=jprifles.com]JP Enterprises[/url].
2/13/2004 7:53:04 PM EDT
[#4]

IMPORTANT - the 15 minute trigger job or any other work that reduces the spring force should be avoided on a fighting rifle IMHO... reduced hammer speed can cause light strike stoppages.
2/13/2004 8:29:42 PM EDT
[#5]
The trigger that the best shooter use for all kinds of shooting is a Jewell. It can be set for pre-trigger travel, trigger stop, first stage poundage 1 lb. to 3 1/2 lbs., second stage 1/2 lb. to 3 1/2 lbs. and the most important secomd stage sear engagement adjustment. The price is about $200.00 the others about 1/2 that price, but when you pull the trigger it's worth the extra. Please don't try to modify a stock trigger they are only case harden and makes for an unsafe gun. The triggers are easy to install and for more information goto HIGHPOWERRIFLE.COM/LEWELL.HTM.
2/14/2004 5:33:24 PM EDT
[#6]
I just tried the JP Enterprises spring kit and had light strikes with SA, Q3131A, and XM193.  Replaced with the factory hammer spring while at the range and no more light strikes, though the pull wasn't nearly as nice anymore.

My next attempt is to get an extra spring kit and try the 15 Minute Trigger Job.
2/15/2004 4:58:21 AM EDT
[#7]
Be aware that the hammer spring used with the Jewell FCG is marginal in strength.  You may have problems with light primer strikes.  I notice that others report the same problem using the JP light hammer springs.
2/19/2004 1:22:27 PM EDT
[#8]
I'm running JP trigger spring and stock hammer spring, with JP trigger & hammer, for about a 4lb pull and 100% reliability.  I had 100% reliability and 2lb pull with the JP hammer spring in, but it wouldn't work with the .22 kit.  

The JP hammer spring might be too light for the stock hammer though.
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