Armory Sponsor
Posted: 8/13/2015 12:00:50 AM EDT
|
I am using the Stealth Phantom jig on a stealth arms frame and a (cheap) E-sarco kit. The goal of this project is to understand the gun and make it work.
The hammer pin hole and the sear pin hole are drilled with the jig. Everything fits without binding. The sear spring barely contacts the sear, just fraction of millimeter. Things appear to work (sometimes) once then the spring goes under the sear and everything locks up. Any ideas? I have contacted Stealth Arms waiting for a reply. Maybe this is a known issue with the kit and the frame. Thanks! |
|
Semi lock the hammer spring housing in place with the spring in place (just short pushed up so you can install the grip safety), and see if that increases the engagement of the spring.
On most rigs, as you are assembly them, you use the hammer main spring housing to hold the leaf spring in place (just don't push the housing all the way up until you have the grip safety installed), then once you have the grip safety installed, finish pushing the spring housing all the way. Hence the grip housing is going to flatten the spring arches out a touch, and if the engaugements without the arches semi flatten out was correct, then the spring tabs would be too long instead. Also, make sure that you have the right spring for the frame at hand, hence some standard 1911 springs are too short to work in a Para type frame instead. |
|
Here is what it looks like with the mainspring housing in place. When I press the trigger the sear spring pops behind the sear. There is hardly any engagement.
I was naively hoping to slap it together and shoot it this weekend, but then I wouldn't have learned anything! I compared the spring against a wilson 1911 Gov. spare I have it was identical in length. I will tear my Kimber apart this weekend and compare placement of the holes, slot for the spring, etc. I could be that the jig placed the sear pin hole and hammer pin hole too high. If so I am wondering If I can modify the slot for the sear spring and move the spring just a little higher. Pic of installation 
|
|
Quoted:
Semi lock the hammer spring housing in place with the spring in place (just short pushed up so you can install the grip safety), and see if that increases the engagement of the spring. On most rigs, as you are assembly them, you use the hammer main spring housing to hold the leaf spring in place (just don't push the housing all the way up until you have the grip safety installed), then once you have the grip safety installed, finish pushing the spring housing all the way. Hence the grip housing is going to flatten the spring arches out a touch, and if the engaugements without the arches semi flatten out was correct, then the spring tabs would be too long instead. Also, make sure that you have the right spring for the frame at hand, hence some standard 1911 springs are too short to work in a Para type frame instead. That might be the ticket. Is a Para spring longer than a 1911 gov? |
|
Looks like the grip safety was the culprit.
I took my Kimber apart and put it on the jig and all the holes line up perfectly. The sear spring that came in the kit has a little more bend that fits in the slot so it appears shorter when installed but it's not. I think I got this phase tackled. Thanks for the help! |
Armory Sponsor