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Posted: 12/21/2011 5:50:24 PM EDT
| I have a 91/30 that I've had for awhile. The one weird thing about it is that the bolt can slip out of being closed on its own if i have it slung over my shoulder. So I can close the bolt on the gun, sling it over my shoulder and walk from my car to the range table. By the time i get there, the bolt is open. Is this thing dangerous to shoot? Is there a way to fix it? Its been this way for awhile, maybe the whole time I've had it(not sure). |
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Tough one, I do know Finn's used to highly prize extremely loose Russian bolts because they found them better able to perform in a dirty environment. What year of manufacture is your rifle ? I'll have to check the safe tomorrow but it's a laminated stock, round receiver, Izhevsk manufacture. I want to say 1943. |
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You're talking about a rifle that's bolt closed, chamber empty, and cocked, right?
I happen to have a 91/30 next to me right now and I can open the bolt pretty easily in that condition. I'm going to say its normal. I can check against other MN's, but this one works just fine, so I'm sure they will end up being the same. (That and I'm too lazy to go upstairs right at the moment  )
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tag..........Just my 2 cents as I'm new to MN's also.
More info please: Cocked or de-cocked? I would think that the sear pressure would keep it tight if it was cocked. Does the bolt open or rotate at all during firing? If not, I'd say its ok to shoot. Is the firing pin spring stock or has it been shortened? Stock springs will have a second end coil to make them flat. Cut springs should be obvious. (I think) |
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You're talking about a rifle that's bolt closed, chamber empty, and cocked, right? I happen to have a 91/30 next to me right now and I can open the bolt pretty easily in that condition. I'm going to say its normal. I can check against other MN's, but this one works just fine, so I'm sure they will end up being the same. (That and I'm too lazy to go upstairs right at the moment )
Correct. Closed, empty, cocked. |
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You're talking about a rifle that's bolt closed, chamber empty, and cocked, right? I happen to have a 91/30 next to me right now and I can open the bolt pretty easily in that condition. I'm going to say its normal. I can check against other MN's, but this one works just fine, so I'm sure they will end up being the same. (That and I'm too lazy to go upstairs right at the moment )
Correct. Closed, empty, cocked. De-cock it and you wont have any problems. |
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tag..........Just my 2 cents as I'm new to MN's also. More info please: Cocked or de-cocked? I would think that the sear pressure would keep it tight if it was cocked. Does the bolt open or rotate at all during firing? If not, I'd say its ok to shoot. Is the firing pin spring stock or has it been shortened? Stock springs will have a second end coil to make them flat. Cut springs should be obvious. (I think) Cocked. When its de-cocked its harder to open and doesn't do this. My guess would be because the bolt cocks as its being opened, thereby preventing it from opening easily. Does not open or rotate during firing. Stock spring. I guess this is a normal condition based on everyone's responses so far. Thanks! |
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Cocked. When its de-cocked its harder to open and doesn't do this. My guess would be because the bolt cocks as its being opened, thereby preventing it from opening easily. Does not open or rotate during firing. Stock spring. I guess this is a normal condition based on everyone's responses so far. Thanks! It's normal. With the way Mosin bolts are designed a little spring pressure is all that holds the bolt shut when it is cocked making it very easy to shake/bump the bolt in to a half cocked position. At that point the bolt handle section will typically engage a little nub on the rear section of the bolt leaving the bolt handle just short of being completely vertical, the bolt can't fall out at this point. It don't take much of a bump at this point and have your bolt handle become completely vertical and falls back on the seer and more often then not out of the gun. You could replace the spring and/or the rear bolt half to make it a little harder to bump it past the half cocked point but the easiest thing to do is just carry the gun uncocked. Also if the gun is in that half cocked position and the trigger gets bumped the bolt face and bolt handle will be forced to rotate in to a locked position as the firing pin and rear bolt half move forward. This will also typically cause enough resistance that the firing pin will not strike the primer with enough force to set it off, although I would not recommend using that as a way to uncock the rifle with a live round in it. |
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This will also typically cause enough resistance that the firing pin will not strike the primer with enough force to set it off, although I would not recommend using that as a way to uncock the rifle with a live round in it. I've read that this is the common method (WITHOUT A ROUND LOADED) to decock. Place bolt down where it will just start to latch, then pull the trigger, and then the bolt will drop fully closed and keep enough pressure off the firing pin to keep it from damage. Anyone else see any issues with this? Leaves the bolt in a decocked position and then the spring pressure keeps it closed also. |
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